Where did you surf today ?

[crabmeat thompson]

I think I'm up to about 13 or 14 days in a row. Today may have been the sweetest.

So ... they decide to hold a triathlon, which they've advertised for a few months. I thought it was a calamitous outcome when I learned they'd be turning the local park into a carpark, and blocking the whole esplanade road for 6 hours starting at 5:30am.

Well, I was wrong.

The glassiest morning maybe all year, with an inconsistent 3-foot set on a high tide. No car traffic in, or out of the area meant I could casually ride the bike down to the beach, leave it unlocked on the back dune and surf my guts out.

I had the whole peak to myself for an hour, than shared it for another hour with a older guy on a longboard (he caught maybe 3 waves?) and a guy on a quad. If he went left, I'd go right, if he went right, I'd go left. Did this for another hour. Head high, glassy sets linking all the way from the back to the sand. Musta been 50+ metres and basically got the pick of any wave I wanted.

It had an Armageddon-like feel to the lineup ... Sunday morning, long lulls, mirror-like glass and up to 3 foot peeling lefts and rights. Normally I would be taking myself down the beach away from everyone and head-dipping into closeouts, based on the fact I can do that in solitude.

I came in with sore legs from surfing. How often does that happen?

I may have to advocate for a triathlon to be held once a fortnight.

[Trev]

^^^
Good stuff Braithy.
My latest run expired at the 10 day mark. I've only had one surf since - in the last week.

[kreepykrawly]

Haven’t surfed for 4 straight days now....going mental…..so looks like you boys gonna have to put up with me till the surf picks up. hehe

[smallhouse]

sheet glass 2' beachies. a good high tide bank, and just 2 of us out.

[Grooter]

Big Left at Flinders on my lunchbreak

Two words

Fcuken glorious

[Grooter]

Big Left at Flinders on my lunchbreak

Two words

Fcuken glorious

Bet it didn't barrel though

What are you mate? Revvo in disguise

But in truth your assertion is correct, as anyone who surfs there will tell you, Big Left at Flinders does not barrel. It's just a big sloping locomotive of a wave that when the swell is up ensures rides that can go for over 200 metres.

Today it was (iggy scale) a nice 4 foot with the odd 6 foot bomb. LIght winds, sun was shining, blue skies, warm water, temperature around 28 degrees. You missed it

[alakaboo]

In the midst of the Goldy, packed to the gills with highly competent surfers and tradies who had the day off due to rain, I managed an hour alone on an a-frame peak, 2-3 foot and throwing out with power but no malice.
Rode a modernised single designed for better things, and had a blast. Goes like a rocket.

[petulance]

Onshore barely breaking Currarong on the weekend. And then I ended up spending the night in a French bird's tent at the nearby caravan park.

Uhm ... it wasn't as good as the last sentence sounded. The tent I borrowed from my mate for the weekend was missing its poles and it so happened one of the French birds in the group had a spare tent that I ended up using for the night.

[smallhouse]

First go out on a new board. The smallest i've ever ridden (5' 6" X 20 1/8" X 2 " )
. Hynson/mattison black knight quad fish.
Did the paddle for some overhead lefts , a bit wobbly early, but cleaned up with the pushing tide. Good sets every 15min or so.
Board went great, Makes me realise i have been riding too much volume for years. Super fast down the line, and turns easily .
Ps . i am only 65kg so it's not as small as it sounds.

[Donweather]

Surfed with the masses at a well known Goldy swell magnet. Was rippy as feck and crowded after about 7am, but still some fun waves (3ft sets) when the rips fecked off along/down the beach. Was nice to be the 2nd paddle over group there and enjoy some solitude before the masses arrived.

[haysie]

Go it yourself Don, chum yourself up and charge across the seaway!

[Natho]

Some great waves here on the North Shore over the past couple of days.Today pipe was around 6 foot, with sneaker sets in the 8foot plus range around lunch and looked like it was getting bigger. Sunset was nice at 6-8 foot in the middle of the day with some good 10 foot sneakers. Swell peaked around early afternoon and has been dropping ever since. I hear The swell started backing off quickly into the afternoon.

Surfed chuns around midday at 6 foot with bigger sets. Gotta say I was pretty under gunned today making it hard to get into waves. Hawaii is like no other place and first step is you gotta get into the wave.i think i will be shopping for longer boards here after todays experience. Crowds have settled down but still 30 guys out at pipe most of today and about 20 out at sunset. chuns was less crowded.Aloha

[alakaboo]

chuns (right) is a fun wave.
I know what you mean, I was on a 6'10 and struggled at 6-8 foot. Normally ride a 5'10"

[Topher]

Hey Natho - If ya need a longer board I think Roy Stewart has a really big one available for loan over on the North Shore.

But seriously, I'm jealous. Hope ya score some more waves. My cousin is heading over there next week with two new custom npj shooters. Bastard.

[Natho]

Nah I think I will give the Roy thing a miss, though I may have got more waves on one of Roy's boards.Guys were heading out at Sunset on 7-8 ft plus boards and here I was with me fricken little step up.i had to move down to Chuns and even still my board felt short on the sets.i reckon it was the smallest board out there. Anyway this is a great place to buy longer boards, that's why I left it till I got over here, though it did cost me a good day at Sunset. There's a lesson in that.
You could get away with a shorter board at pipe, though most guys seemed to be on boards around 6'8 - 7'2 but I would not have even got a wave coz it was fairly crowded ( medium crowd for pipe though) and there was a long wait between sets so when they came every bastard wanted one.
Rocky point looked suprisingly heavy and again a longer board was needed just to get in.some awesome barrels out there but frickn heavy.looked heavier than pipe.

Anyway swells backed right off now with a new swell due this weekend. Hoping to surf Honolua on Sunday.

Aloha

[steve shearer]

photos or it didn't happen.

How was Jockos looking when u surfed Chuns?

[Rustt]

Jocko's was one of my favourites when I stayed there, it is a place where you can get waves when it is bigger as the rip starts running taking everyone out past the take off, so if you can pick off one before you get dragged out with the pack ya laughing.Natho a good tip for rocky point is go for the late one, once the light is no good for photos it's whole different crowd out there, way more laid back, the after work crew. Had many a late sessions a Gas Chambers, if you are there for awhile pick the spots you like most and once the regulars know your face they will give you a break.

[Natho]

Got a stack of photos Steve as long as someone can tell me how I upload em when I get back. Got some great ones of pipe and sunset.just taken on a standard happy snap camera but still plenty good enough.