Where did you surf today ?

[Donweather]

That's what sand pumping does these days Trev. Turns a closeout shorey into a not so bad fun wave. Surprised Tugun was 2ft, given the swell direction. Dbah had some surprising size today too....a few rogue sets approaching the 3ft mark by the looks of the photos from the GCBC.

[Trev]

That's what sand pumping does these days Trev. Turns a closeout shorey into a not so bad fun wave. Surprised Tugun was 2ft, given the swell direction. Dbah had some surprising size today too....a few rogue sets approaching the 3ft mark by the looks of the photos from the GCBC.

Used to be that, as the sand drifted north, it would form long sandbars parallel to the beach with occasional channels for the water to get back out. They'd become apparent from about Coolangatta Creek (no groynes at Kirra) and run north, visible as they formed a couple of hundred meters out to sea but didn't seem to form as far north as Tugun.
Then, over time they'd gradually move closer to shore and another line would form out to sea as the close in one merged with the beach.
You could always get a wave as the swell ran off the end of the bar into the channels.
But Tugun would just be a shore dump as you said. (most of the time)
The sand bars would also form between Elephant Rock and the Alley (no rock wall out to Currumbin Rock) and all the way along Palm Beach.
So with all that sand, does anything happen at Flat Rock or is it buried?

[Jorgo]

Trev - since the last big swells and all the sand gone - (picture 12 foot cliffs cut into the shore) - there are actually banks that I've not really seen before in my 25 years on the Coast. There's a gutter running along the southside of the Alley and a peak forming there in that corner. Even as far down as Tugun anf flat rock there are banks out the back - yep not straight breaking shoredumps. Quite bizzare - but more wave option than I've seen before I reckon. Palmy has some good breaks and Laceys has been very good over the last 6 weeks. Not sure how long before it all fills in again - but get it while you can. Heard tell that Burleigh beach breaks have been passable too

[pridmore]

Fark Steve, I really can read your stuff all day, it interestes me so much coz I know of all the surfers you write about, they are about my age and I used to follow their progress alot back when they were doin well, even partied at a few pressos with some of them...It is sadenning but it is real and I like real stuff...well written mate, hope you are keeping all these bits for a book of sorts.... not trying to sound like I'm pissing in ya pocket, just a genuine appreciation for story that can get my undivided...which is rare....

[GregL]

the mal's gettin' a workout lately. narrowneck today, about 2ft. & pissweak.
As Jorgo says Trev, things have changed at Tugun (& other places) thanks to storms & sand pumping.

[Donweather]

about 2ft. & pissweak.

I would think that will change in a few days, Greg.

[Grooter]

Work from home day = dawn surf

Went to Pt Leo with my mate, scored some half decent 3 footers at Second Reef. Nthing much to rave about as they closed down pretty quick but had enough punch to give a decent ride.

If anything just nice to be out at that time of the day there, very nice part of the world in winter.

[marcus_h]

30 more days until i'm back in the water...celebrating by spending a week at Byron rehabilitating on the log at the pass.

Been a LONG five months so far

Wont be allowed back on my shortboards for another 3-4 months.

[Grooter]

Some nice, clean 4 - occasional 6 foot rights on the reefs this morning before work. Finally a decent run of waves after an absolute cnut of a Winter down here........

It actually feels good to have a bit of mild wettie rash around me neck after at least one surf a day since last Wednesday. Lookin alright for the next few days as well.........

The weekend is looking great over this side as well. Hear you on the winter swells, been terrible this year.

[purple pyramids]

tama - it was shit. no great surprise there. friend dropped by in the morning and said he saw a few small lines down at bronte so i wandered down. i gave my daily surf report to the kids at waverly college on the way home, "don't bother skipping school today."

[OddaP]

Usual reefbreak.

4 degrees this morning! sun playing hidey behind the dunes and a crisp easterly blowing-brrrrrr.

Surf was nothing flash but the day was a magic winters day, no clouds, chilly water, a dolphin made an appearance, birds wheeling overhead, the resident Cormorant whizzing around-got out feeling satisfied, not because the waves were good but because I was out there, soaking it all up-there's more to a surf than just the waves

[pridmore]

rde the Abat in some super clean 1-2 1/2" fullish little beachy peaks...It was fun and I was testing a timber set of quad fins for the first time..waves werent ideal but it was so perfect and clean but just not enough push or power unfortunately but the board was still fun for the conditions...water was cold and the cool offshore was making me wanna keep moving and catching alot of waves...great way to start the day.....

[PeepeelaPew]

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[OddaP]

Perth's favourite beachbreak. Got there just in time to catch the afternoon onshore in full force. Forecast was for 3-4kt offshores, managed to score 15kt onshores instead. Water was frigid. Old, dead wetsuit's like tissue paper. I'll bet it was good this morning, there were occasional good sized sets. I left when a school group of boys with coloured singlets over there wetties all decided that the bank I was on was their choice too, 20+ teenagers all paddling out at once. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon's better, forecast says it should be.

I worked late so did not see the surf last night but I saw that the bouys spiked a bit in the arvo on both size and period. A bummer about the onshore- its forecast to go to SSE this arvo but I have a sneaking suspicion that it will manage to blow sou-west -of course my fingers are crossed that it won't as there will be another spike again this afternoon.

[PeepeelaPew]

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[Trev]

Had some fun little 2' stuff this morning.
Water crystal clear so you could see the rock bottom perfectly, interspersed with the occasional passing turtle.
Light offshores.
Ahh Qld. Beautiful one day, perfect the next.
Bring on tomorrow.

[PeepeelaPew]

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[diggerdickson]

ahh, surf, finally, after a long wait there was some surf today.

Went out at yaroomba and had a decent surf, they dug out the river and the banks are forming nicely. Caught some excellent waves and it was a great feeling to know that I can still surf well. MMMMMM cant wait for the next surf.