Where did you surf today ?

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:28 am

Tom,
these are for you (and Don.W). :lol:
This morning AFTER my 2+ hours.

Hollow
Image
The Reef
Image
The Point
Image
Little one further inside
Image
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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lambert
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by lambert » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:12 am

TREV, or anyone around that area! is there still waves about? im keen to have a dip around kings/moffs?

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:15 am

lambert wrote:TREV, or anyone around that area! is there still waves about? im keen to have a dip around kings/moffs?
I think the wind would be intoit at Kings but other side of hte headland should be OK.
The swell didn't look like it was going to go away in a hurry.
I'm hopefull it'll still be there tomorrow.

However, this from Coastalwatch this am.
WTF?
Surf Report Sunshine Coast QLD 5:30am 18/06/2009 RSS
Swell size: 1-2ft SE
The SSE swell is still not getting in onto the coast., it's around 1-2ft on the open beaches with fresh S winds early. The winds are forecast to go SSE at 15-20 knots later. Small ones from Dicky to Currimundi, Alex to Maroochydore, Coolum and A Bay early before the winds strengthen from the SSE. Check out the latest Coastalwatch swell forecast .

STRANGE.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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lambert
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by lambert » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:50 am

thanks trev! u might see me at kbg or brays haha :D

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Donweather » Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:56 pm

Very nice indeed Trev!!! #1 looks sensational.

Should still be something tomorrow (local winds permitting) but she'll definitely be on the backside of the swell tomorrow.

#1 has seriously got me thinking about joining you there tomorrow!!!

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:47 pm

dinosaur wrote:Gee number 1 looks like a solid little (not so little ) keg. Especially as it's the sunshine coast, the blokes probably on a 11ft SUP.
Sorry Dino. It's a short board. 8)
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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lambert
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by lambert » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:49 pm

where did the swell go trev!? i got there mid arvo and it was 2 footish, reef was 3-4 but it was stupidly bumpy. tucked in at ann proved alright :|

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:52 am

lambert wrote:where did the swell go trev!? i got there mid arvo and it was 2 footish, reef was 3-4 but it was stupidly bumpy. tucked in at ann proved alright :|
Don't know mate. Still waves at the point at 4.30 but pretty close to high tide so very full. Quite a few short boarders on it though.
This morning was head high again and some really heavy drops. Great fun.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:41 am

Didn't surf, I was driving the bus and waiting at Broken Head Hall, near the forest of brush box which grows over the road and forms a natural cathedral.

It was raining and a figure rode past on a dilapidated pushie, in an old green raincoat. I didn't recognise him at first but he stopped up the road and turned his bike upside down...he must've got a puncture...it was Gibbo, black Mike from Dee Why; one of Herro's angels and one of the loosest cannons God ever set breath into.

Gibbo's heritage is Papuan, which has bequeathed him a magnificent physique...his personality is unrestrained and clouded by intense bouts of depression which leave him suicidal, interspersed by blinding moments of manic behaviour. In his depression he walks, or rides a bike....it's normal for Mike to walk from Lennox to Mullumbimby, a lone figure along the unused train line, picking off edible weeds for nourishment....if I see him in the street and ask him how he's going he's brutally honest "oh pretty fcuking depressed...black thoughts torturing me.....I'm on increased medication now ".......sometimes he has a wierd faraway look in his eye, in that state his favourite form of self medication is to arrive at a party by climbing the wall naked and just mingling with the guests....a 6ft Kumul with a swinging member. He has problems keeping a girlfriend or a job......surf coach, taxi driver: that ends with some display of wierdness....he always ends up back at the chicken factory, boning or cleaning, working longhours covered in blood and stinking gore.

Gibbo's a good surfer and somehow as a result of a family inheritance he ended up with a small unit at Lennox,which he shares with Roger. Roger isn't exactly all straight lines either. He's a martial artist who can sometimes be found swinging a large sword with slow deliberate movements. Rog got attacked by a shark surfing an isolated spot near Ballina and after an intense forensics session with Greenough they decided from the teeth marks on the board it was a 7ft bull shark. Roger will paddle around the backbeaches solo on a 30 dollar surfmat.....he's got no front teeth and a tribe of little kids scattered around. It makes me feel good to see Roger walking his daughter to school.

Herro stayed with Gibbo and Roger for a while, until the government stimulus package arrived : Herro went on a bender with the money, and that was the last I saw of him, standing outside the Lennox Pub, fat and bearded and drunk. Gibbo kicked him out, he told me this with pure sadness. Shane evokes a lot of sadness amongst those who know him......in his sober moments he is intelligent and gentle, the life force is dimming in him, soon the candle will blow out....and Gibbo, Roger and I will be among the mourners.
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puurri
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by puurri » Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:12 pm

very evocative mate.

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Hano
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hano » Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:28 pm

"Didn't surf, I was driving the bus and waiting at Broken Head Hall, near the forest of brush box which grows over the road and forms a natural cathedral."

Thought them hills up there (Byron, Broken,Ox etc) were where the evergreen groms went to........to happily fade away

Nice piece of reality Steve.

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tiger
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by tiger » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:00 am

Surfed the Noosa points y'day, something I never usually do on a weekend. Wandered all the way out to Granite to start. Unfortunately all the sand that was thru the inside of the break is gone :x , but the outside section was still lining up nice. Mostly shoulder high on the sets, with a few bigger ones occasionally. Rode the Huie CCD Quad, with some bigger fins he sent up to me. Got some good waves, that were good to feel the board out on. It didn't like the shorter waves where I had to cutback and wait for sections to build. But on a few waves I got that were more down the line, the quad benefits were very noticable. Being able to slingshot from top to bottom, with plenty of drive and carry right thru.

Drifted into T-Tree to catch a few in. The bank is still in really good shape, but the crowd was at it's thickest here. Luckily I managed to pick up a few nice waves in quick time, and they were even better suited to the little blue quad. A bit smaller and really rattling off down the line.

Noticed on the BOM website, there is an ocean wind warning from Fiji :D .
Image

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marcus_h
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marcus_h » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:38 am

116 days down, 65 to go until I can post where I surfed today...bring it.

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Grooter
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Grooter » Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:14 pm

Gunnamatta was great this morning, surf was clean, 3 -4 foot and did I get a wave?

No.

Not.Fcuking.One. :evil:

I seemed to always be paddling to the wrong spot, the ones I went for I either missed or someone else got there first, everytime I went in a little bit closer to shore to get a smaller one a 5-6 foot bomb would come through and clean me up. Fcuking annoying,.

But then it took a weird turn....

I heard some kid screaming for help about an hour of this sh.it. Looked around, couldn't see anything. Asked another guy, he heard the kid too and then we heard the kid screaming again for help. I thought fcuk this I'm not getting waves so I paddled into shore just in time to see a kid stagger out of the surf and collapse on the sand. Some fisherman ran over along with some other surfers and me to see a kid about 15 or 16 lying on the sand, busted nose and quivering in pain from a very sore neck and back.

Poor cnut had been catching waves on a shallow sand bar and had gotten dumped head first into it. Don't reckon he's old enough yet to appreciate Gunna on a day over 3 foot but he will be now. It can get very heavy and dumpy on the shallow banks and it was pretty fat this morning too so there was a lot of power in the waves.

The tide was coming in still so we carefully lifted him onto a long board, moved him up the beach, someone went to phone the paramedics, someone else to phone his dad.

Paramedics got there, we moved him onto a stretcher and they gave him morphine, neck brace etc.... and then called the chopper to air lift him to the carpark as we were a good 500 metres down the beach from the Gunnamatta car-park and it was too risky to carry him as he had a spinal injury.

They unloaded him from the chopper, into the ambo and off he went to the Royal Childrens. They had to cut his wetty off too, a brand new e-bomb no less.

And that was my morning.
some cnut wrote:There are only two real problems that we face in life, knowing what we want but being unable to know how to get it and/or not knowing what we want
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pridmore
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by pridmore » Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:05 pm

gee, sounds heavy, hope the kid is ok...let us know if you find out how he goes Hatch ..... Think we all have had a few close calls in the water, I know I have gone close to doin serious damage to my back once or twice....

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Haz
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Haz » Sun Jun 21, 2009 6:24 pm

When the hell was that hatch!? i was there from 12-5pm and i didn't see/hear anything?

Yeah gunna was reeeeally good today, hell bazza's for 2 seconds then a massive closeout :twisted: actually made it out of one at least!

ventured down to 1st carpark later... fuuuck the bank there was good, sucky rides for 100 metres

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Grooter
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Grooter » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:08 pm

^^^^

Early mate around 8.30am, I got there around 7.15 myself, chopper arrived around 9.30 I think..

Gunna was looking real good when I was leaving too, think I'll be heading a fair way down to those banks again next time.
some cnut wrote:There are only two real problems that we face in life, knowing what we want but being unable to know how to get it and/or not knowing what we want
It's possible to hate the filthy world and still love it with an abstract pitying love

diggerdickson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by diggerdickson » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:17 pm

was a bit of a mess my way today and didnt have enough time to travel so skipped it :(
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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