Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:36 pm

anyway, I'm pissed off as all hell.

the surf is muddy, brown mess. I haven't been in it for days, the longest stretch in 10 months.

found the Rooster dead under the verandah sometime during the deluge. Not sure how long he had been dead for, but he was a real mess, sprawled out, covered in red mud. Decrepit and decayed.

Now we've got that post flood smell in the air; a decaying sour smell like rotting meat and old socks.

Two goats are lame from the mud.

I went to a restaurant last night for the local rag I write a column for. Against my better judgement. Some pooncy new mex pplace that doesn't know the difference between ceviche and poisson cru.
So I drank a boatload of Mexican beer and staggered home several hours later. <Literally tacked up the hill.

Then nursed one of those mean, metal on metal hangovers all day.

And the onshores look set to continue through Christmas, right thought this cyclone swell which is going to be the most over-hyped piece of shite of all time.

I want to blame Carroll, is that fair?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavethequeen » Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:42 pm

Carroll no doubt paddles with a puffed out chest chanting ‘ooh fitness, yes fitness’ on every stroke. He is also guilty of quite the most outrageous long range forecasts that nobody ever seems to retrospectively fact check and call him to account over. Until now, perhaps
Hatchnam wrote:
Sat Jul 04, 2020 5:35 pm
Waist high grovel, mostly shutting down.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavethequeen » Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:42 pm

Sorry about the rooster, by the way. Any suspects?
Hatchnam wrote:
Sat Jul 04, 2020 5:35 pm
Waist high grovel, mostly shutting down.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:53 pm

old age.

I thought you would have poisoned him?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Dec 16, 2020 9:03 pm

not to diss Carroll's inner monologue, as unintentionally revealing as it might be.

I agree with Lucky Al, a good phenomenological exploration of wave riding is rare, and might be an uncharted territory.

I think it's rare because the pro surfers who might attempt it are inarticulate morons lacking the inner life requisite for the task.

It was fun to read.....it kind of fits what Houellebecq said was the uniqueness of writing; it's the only art form that gives direct access to the mind and experience of another.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Thu Dec 17, 2020 12:56 am

This article discusses why Qld/NNSW beaches are particularly susceptible to erosion under La Nina conditions.

https://riskfrontiers.com/the-first-tas ... o-la-nina/

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Dec 17, 2020 2:44 am

That was informative boo
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 17, 2020 5:57 am

there's no need to go around informing people boo, I mean honestly

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 17, 2020 6:02 am

oh and I've thought a bit about how quite a few of the best waves I've caught in my life have sorta seemed to bypass the memory, or at least the linguistic framer inside memory. I can feel them but they were so vividly in the moment and I was so caught up in them, I'm not sure I can describe them.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Dec 17, 2020 6:08 am

alakaboo wrote:
Thu Dec 17, 2020 12:56 am
This article discusses why Qld/NNSW beaches are particularly susceptible to erosion under La Nina conditions.

https://riskfrontiers.com/the-first-tas ... o-la-nina/
Most of that is interesting in a water is wet way.

big call from him though, to state, that an ENE storm event could move the Byron sand slug into the Bay.

we'll see.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Fri Dec 18, 2020 2:35 pm

After a couple mediocre days here I decided to paddle out yesterday afternoon into homes heaving shitfight . It was breaking 4-6 and I`d reckon only two in 10 were even remotely makeable . Got out only for a whole ten minutes of bombs just rolling through - all closeouts . One stood up nicely , shit I thought , swung late and stuck the drop and threaded through until it shut down in about a foot of water . Was the only decent wave I got until I went in picking off a smaller one and stepping off on the sand . Funny session that started off pretty big and then turned average sitting at about 3 foot and just closing out .
Hopefully the wind stays as it is so I can paddle out in a couple hours .
Positive note is I got to surf the faded 2.0 in some very solid conditions so far in this swell window . What a magnificent piece of equipment .

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:48 pm

surfed Caba back beach, fun! chunky 3-4' east and sth, light winds

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No Pants Lance
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by No Pants Lance » Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:50 pm

thank god. minimal spread.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:00 pm

Oh and I picked up loofy's new gun for him

Image

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:13 pm

2 surfs today in onshore close-outs.

did an air on a foamy.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:47 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:00 pm
Oh and I picked up loofy's new gun for him

Image
I had a 6'10, six channel Byrning Spears a long time ago. Great board, used it a lot in Indo and around Margaret River. I swapped a Jim Banks 7'4 gun for it.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Dec 21, 2020 1:00 am

steve shearer wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:13 pm
2 surfs today in onshore close-outs.

did an air on a foamy.
Bit unseemly for a man of your vintage.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Dec 21, 2020 10:19 am

your mate was absolutely correct in predicting that storm from the ENE would activate and transport some of the sand stuck off Cape Byron Boo.

Huge sand slug now washed into Clarkes.

almost a 100m of beach width there now. amazing.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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