Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
How good are east swells.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Fcuk, this is winter!
Swell has jumped, north of 6 foot. South west wind, ice cold. Big peaks unloading everywhere. Pumping.
Swell has jumped, north of 6 foot. South west wind, ice cold. Big peaks unloading everywhere. Pumping.
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
This is the worst weekend of my life.
ok I'm exaggerating!!! but fcuk.
ok I'm exaggerating!!! but fcuk.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Holy fcccck its pumping! Perfect 6ft when I first got out, glass perfection and relatively uncrowded. Pulsing to 8ft towards the end and overpowering the banks but fark, that was magical for a while. Some of the best lefts I can remember.
Last edited by Drailed on Sun Aug 09, 2020 4:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Fun and clean 3ft, surfed with a mate alone for 3 hrs in front of the main lookout in town.
Currazy
Currazy
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Is that Wales?
Sorry. I've always wanted to say that.
Sorry. I've always wanted to say that.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Man. Some solid sets coming through this AM at the point, and the smaller ones were growling over the shelf on the low tide in a very powerful, wonky way that had me a bit spooked, to be honest. That weird size where it's like 4-8 foot!
I'm really struggling with that commitment to going over the ledge on days like this, it's full on. I look around and it seems like it's too easy for most of the regulars out there, while I ponder my abilities. Imposter syndrome set in hard today. Weird, as a in few recent swells I've been confident and able to take off. I dunno, wasn't feeling up to it. Surfing is a mean mistress sometimes!
I'm really struggling with that commitment to going over the ledge on days like this, it's full on. I look around and it seems like it's too easy for most of the regulars out there, while I ponder my abilities. Imposter syndrome set in hard today. Weird, as a in few recent swells I've been confident and able to take off. I dunno, wasn't feeling up to it. Surfing is a mean mistress sometimes!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Take a few Sudafed's before hand. makes even the most self doubting charge a foot or two larger.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Just dont be a fccckn weak cnut.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Don't feel weird about it wyre. You've got to know where you're at on any given day. Surfing when you internally know you shouldn't be is the best way to get hurt.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Cheers NC. Yeah it's the inconsistency of my 'balls' that's getting to me. I think I need to go full loofy and just go mental out there!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Is that you this morning, Loof?!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
This morning I had one of those once in a year surfs.
Flat yesterday but i was watching the swell move up the NSW coast on the MHL buoys late afternoon and evening.
Swell period jumped up to almost 15 seconds.
So this morning my local was about 2' before dawn but clean and lined up.
In my 2 hours in the surf it jumped up to head high and a bit.
The Christo board loved it.
We were all just paddling around with big grins on our faces.
Same in the Car Park afterwards. Everyone grinning like a Cheshire Cat.
My shoulders ache.
My lower back aches.
My calf muscles ache.
My thighs ache.
Five hours later I'm still frothing
Flat yesterday but i was watching the swell move up the NSW coast on the MHL buoys late afternoon and evening.
Swell period jumped up to almost 15 seconds.
So this morning my local was about 2' before dawn but clean and lined up.
In my 2 hours in the surf it jumped up to head high and a bit.
The Christo board loved it.
We were all just paddling around with big grins on our faces.
Same in the Car Park afterwards. Everyone grinning like a Cheshire Cat.
My shoulders ache.
My lower back aches.
My calf muscles ache.
My thighs ache.
Five hours later I'm still frothing
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
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