Surfing as fun.

Post by **Larry** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:42 pm

I'm sat on a bench at the local spot today, watching just about everybody out there in the soft surf at midday.
The stiff old men on mals making two foot look like ten as they crept around and down the fat faces - the middle aged 30 plus alienables on fatboards and fishes, and all those other shapes that sink beneath them - then the younger metronomes who can turn and turn and turn and who surely imagine the cameras of world are capturing their half baked capers.

And the two skinny kids out there on old single fin mals, fading into take-offs, running to the nose, doing heels and toes over, turning around and walking backwards, doing Butch Cooney cutbacks, making fin first take-offs, banging off spinners on the nose - and they were doing all of this untaught stuff withl the grace of a lad who had all the time in the world.

and they were laughing too , on every wave

Post by **AlbyAl** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:45 pm

Truly sickening Larry,

You said they were young ... and surfing mals - quite well - which implies they had corrupted their youf with significant time atop those logs, instead of spending it wisely on proper short boards. Yep, I feel sick - worse than after stealing me nephew's Easter eggs yesterday; worse even than watching the cat drink the sluice dribbling from the bottom of the garbage truck; worse even than the missus ...

Some things are best left unsaid. Young blokes enjoying themselves on mals! This is a family website Larry be ashamed, be very ashamed.

Post by **sean--** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:18 pm

Good post Larry. Those skinny kids riding the nose and making it look easy and easy to watch.

Post by **AlbyAl** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:56 pm

Don't encourage him Sean - skinny kids having fun??!! On mals??!!

I was watching today... saw a fat kid, struggling on an epoxy-lerner craft. Other kids on short boards were ripping him off, dropping in because he was slow - all that fat oozing out of his wetsuit - paddling weak, stumbling to his feet .. they were laughing ... at him. He came in crying - looked dejected - doomed because of the cruel pecking order.

And that's the glory and beauty of surfing - ahh - smell the fear in the air! Watch as the weak get pummelled, and the mals crash together in the white water. Watch the old-timers miss the sets, and the young pros take the best. Watch the girls be ridiculed, and the clubbies shout at everyone. Watch the bluebottles sting and the sun burn. Watch until the wax melts off yer board, and the car has cooked its dash.

Yes, it's a good weekend at the beach.
Thanks for reminding me Larry.

Post by **sean--** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:49 am

AlbyAl wrote:Don't encourage him Sean - skinny kids having fun??!! On mals??!!

I was watching today... saw a fat kid, struggling on an epoxy-lerner craft. Other kids on short boards were ripping him off, dropping in because he was slow - all that fat oozing out of his wetsuit - paddling weak, stumbling to his feet .. they were laughing ... at him. He came in crying - looked dejected - doomed because of the cruel pecking order.

And that's the glory and beauty of surfing - ahh - smell the fear in the air! Watch as the weak get pummelled, and the mals crash together in the white water. Watch the old-timers miss the sets, and the young pros take the best. Watch the girls be ridiculed, and the clubbies shout at everyone. Watch the bluebottles sting and the sun burn. Watch until the wax melts off yer board, and the car has cooked its dash.

Yes, it's a good weekend at the beach.
Thanks for reminding me Larry.

I'm the fat kid

someones gotta do it

Post by **Larry** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:32 am

kid on mal catches wave, fin forward (1) slides it around when he stands (2) stall (3) runs to the nose (4) pops 'em all over (5) pops heels over (6) bangs on a spinner (7) walks back to the tail (

rips offa cutty (9)

kid on shortboard catches a wave, does a turn (1) does a cutback (2) does a turn (1 again) does a cutback (2 again) does a turn ..........

losers Alb, losers

Post by **wanto** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:47 am

why can't they both be winners ya jaded elitist.

Post by **Larry** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:50 am

there is quite a lot of stuff you just don't get, isn't there champ ?

Post by **WANDERER** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:00 am

I used to be one of them skinny kids...

Post by **ric_vidal** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:10 am

WANDERER wrote:I used to be one of them skinny kids...

Probably not even kids, Laz is no doubt myopic - I’m thinkin’ Adrian Van...

Nice little read Laz, made me

Post by **Hano** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:16 am

Your not involved in the Bells web cast are ya Larry? Are ya?

Post by **Larry** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:21 am

There was some irony on the day as well - there's a bloke who's lived up here all his life and he used to surf just like these kids when he was about 16, and like me, he was watching as well.

The one thing about big boards is that when they are ridden well, and it doesn't matter whether it's 2008 or 1962 - the style is the same - fluid, quick, graceful, sharp, nimble - all that stuff -

Post by **Nick Carroll** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:52 am

Amazingly enough, good today-board style's exactly the same.

Post by **Surfin Turf** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:56 am

Larry wrote:kid on mal catches wave, fin forward (1) slides it around when he stands (2) stall (3) runs to the nose (4) pops 'em all over (5) pops heels over (6) bangs on a spinner (7) walks back to the tail ( rips offa cutty (9)

sounds positively awful .... was it leroy, jack or matt

AlbyAl wrote:..was watching today... saw a fat kid, struggling on an epoxy-lerner craft. Other kids on short boards were ripping him off, dropping in because he was slow - all that fat oozing out of his wetsuit - paddling weak, stumbling to his feet .. they were laughing ... at him. He came in crying - looked dejected - doomed because of the cruel pecking order.

serves himself right for wearing a wetsuit on a day like that ....

Post by **wanto** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:13 am

Larry wrote:there is quite a lot of stuff you just don't get, isn't there champ ?

aw laz, don't be so sensitive

Post by **Larry** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:36 am

ok - let me explain it for the kero lantern (wanto)

I cannot think of another sport where the basic design has stood up so well, so well in fact that the kids out there today who know how to use a big board look exactly like the kids who were doing it well in 1962 - with regard to style, manouvres and technique - (not all these boards were light btw) - pop a youthful nat out there yesterday and he wouldn't have stood out -

Post by **Nick Carroll** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:42 am

Sailing.

Post by **Larry** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:49 am

geez nc, - if I look up from where I'm sitting right now I can see a 69 ' carbon fibre and nomex cored swing keel ocean racing yacht that could get up to 45 knots in good wind - hydraulic winches, satellite navigation systems, and stern and aft water ballast -

nobody builds and sails timber yachts any more - that technology stopped growing in the '60's - unlike longboards

keep to what you know mate

RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Surfing as fun.

Surfing as fun.

Who is online