RealSurf Surfers' Forum

tonka79 wrote:TOS. Was a bit wobbly and wind got on it pretty early

What size was it this morning Tonka?

Donweather wrote:

tonka79 wrote:TOS. Was a bit wobbly and wind got on it pretty early

What size was it this morning Tonka?

Two, maybe three feet on the sets.

edit: i'll give you a wrap up of taiwan soon.

steve shearer wrote:pumping at the Point this morning.

yeah saw a picture on someones instagram. maybe joel fitzgerald's.

yeah, apparently he lives here now. I haven't seen him around yet, but my wife is pally with his wife.

I got one smoking big set wave on my wifes gloss coated transition era hipster board before an 8ft set landed on it and snapped it in two.

happy days.

This morning was real good too. Light northerly thinned the crowds, gee it was good to surf some juice again, even if the surf fitness was paltry.

You get a piece of it Rancho?

steve shearer wrote:This morning was real good too. Light northerly thinned the crowds, gee it was good to surf some juice again, even if the surf fitness was paltry.

Yes, even the top end of the Goldy had some surprisingly fun waves this morning. Was oil slick glass all morning too!!

the point claims another of steves boards.

steve shearer wrote:You get a piece of it Rancho?

tugun, at a reasonable hour.
was very glassy but not 8 foot. maybe in trev scale.

steve shearer wrote: I got one smoking big set wave on my wifes gloss coated transition era hipster board before an 8ft set landed on it and snapped it in two.

I doubt the shaper was expecting his hipster boards would be ridden in anything over four foot.

That swell sure muscled up. Was on the increase up till the arvo here. Limited options though. Was under called / under forecasted by at least a few foot as well.

Did your 6'8" get a run?

Nah, no where in the immediate vicinity was surf able.

So I had about an hour and a half at DY point this morning. Had heaps of fun. Not great conditions as the wind started to get into it but the size generally made up for it.

Couldn't believe how few were out. Saturday morning and all. But there was a comp on, the surf tag thing?

No one (from the comp) said anything and the couple of us kept well clear of those in singlets.

Not being overly familiar with these situations, am I to take it that all the respectful surfers were over in front of the clubhouse (about 50 of them) and that I and just a couple of others unwittingly and ignorantly transgressed and should have left the point and the comp alone?

Thing was, they got plenty of waves and so did I so all good surely.

All good I'm sure damage.

Nowhere was crowded. It was off kilter with the swell forecasts.

It's taken a long time but it feels as if forecasting is finally beginning to affect the mass movement of surfers on the Oz east coast, the way it affects the mass movement of surfers in California for instance.

I don't really pay attention to any forecasts, I do my own.

What did they say? Blind freddy could see that front and consequent Tasman low was gunna produce.

Ah down here they said it was gonna come up a lot on Friday then back off overnight.

It only came up a little bit on Friday, result a lot of people think there won't be much at all on Sat.

Sat booms but mostly in the morning till around 9am when the glass off is hacked by a NE wind and the tide comes up.

Result anyone who didn't do their own weather watching or who wasn't able to respond quickly to conditions missed it.

Used to see this in So Cal a lot, people were almost enslaved by the forecast thanks to where the surf comes from (ie southern hemi storms) and would follow its dictates in huge numbers. If a swell got under the radar you'd get the most amazing sessions with almost nobody out even at places like Lowers.

Yes, by 9:30 was about washed up.

and yet today was bigger (thanks to the swinging gales around the SW quadrant of that low)

lots of rubbernecks. Every now and then a set would come and wash large numbers of them back to shore.

I bet Boxes was going off early this morning.

Nick Carroll wrote:Ah down here they said it was gonna come up a lot on Friday then back off overnight.

Sure about that Nick? All week we (Swellnet) were forecasting a peak on Saturday arvo. From Craig's notes: "A much stronger and larger S'ly groundswell is expected late in the afternoon." He even gave a warning about this swell "only being for experienced surfers."

I note the competitors have the same trend, albeit not the same size.

Wasn't quite expecting the sat. morning conditions , but after an extensive drive around revealed crowded but "off kilter" waves I resigned myself to driving back to where I started for an obligatory just " got wet " frustration surf .
Then , while heading back I stopped halfway and took a blind faith punt of a walk to a spot I hadn't surfed in over 10 years due to the pain in getting to this fickle spot - and it's usual let down .
Boom-tish , ....great waves , nice vibe in water , 1 epic drop to float my ego for a long time
Magic happens .... Still !