RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Man, I got some biscuits this morning!

Bit of a mixed bag. Wanted to go out up north end but got a park down south so paddled out. Seemed to be banks everywhere. South was a bit of a shitfight but managed to nab one before it became too much. Went to next bank and got thoroughly frustrated before lobbing where I intended to go out in the first place. A couple of very rippy bowling kind of little waves. Not sure what you would call that. Then saw a few shapely lefts coming through north of the Pav and nabbed one of those.

Cant you just walk down, dont you live in Bondi?

Bondi Junctionish. Closer to Bronte really. Often walk down there in summer for a swim. Bit of hike back up though.

Some ok waves at JBay today. Hope it holds out for the comp.

You’ve probably all seen the JBay photos on Swellnet, but the second photo of Connor Coffin is an absolute classic JBay shot.
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... -jbay-warm

Swellnet also report that waves for the event are unlikely to be top JBay.

Bit more size and push this afternoon. Low crowds too. Pleasant.

And the water is ridiculously warm for this time of year. Thankyou global warming.

Managed a surf this arvo. Took a couple of drops but the sections didn't quite connect. Paddled further up and got a couple of fun ones that kept walling up right through to the beach with plenty of speed. Stoked. Pleasant afternoon.

My reincarnation as a surfer is scheduled for next Tuesday. I'll fill everyone in the vicissitudes I have suffered shortly. It's a cautionary tale.

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked?

fcuken crystal clear morning, lr se groundswell, not big but whistle clean.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:21 am

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked?

Technically I guess, I have surfed twice on my 8' McCoy, once for 30 minutes, the other for an hour.

ATM I can't do push-ups nor chin-ups, but I'm working on easier variants. I'm adding about 10% more load to my exercise routine nearly every day and surfing when there's reasonable surf (about once/week).

I'm going back in the biggest and most consistent month of the year and there is no-where small to surf on the bukit near where I stay, and now I'm not keen on riding a bike anywhere really, so I'll be tempted to surf whats available locally.

And I just finished packing two nuggets: a 7'2 epoxy (55l) and a 7'4 poly (63l). Buoyancy baby, that's where its at.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 10:39 am

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:21 am

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked?

Technically I guess, I have surfed twice on my 8' McCoy, once for 30 minutes, the other for an hour.

ATM I can't do push-ups nor chin-ups, but I'm working on easier variants. I'm adding about 10% more load to my exercise routine nearly every day and surfing when there's reasonable surf (about once/week).

I'm going back in the biggest and most consistent month of the year and there is no-where small to surf on the bukit near where I stay, and now I'm not keen on riding a bike anywhere really, so I'll be tempted to surf whats available locally.

Cranky - how are you finding your power in both paddling and popping up?

After i had rehabbed my screwed shoulder, i did a lot of weights work to get strength back but first surf i realised the work i had done was slow and controlled. I needed a lot more work developing the explosive power for sprint paddling and pop ups.

I had a fun surf at the local.

rode my MC 6'3" which felt so fcuking good. Hasn't been wet for a while, which speaks to the generally crappy surf we've had in the last 12 months.

clean jump off and as I was paddling out I was watching a bloke surfing towards me on a wave. I saw a big bait ball- mullet- in the wave and as he kicked off a 6-8ft bronzey split the bait ball in half as it came surfing into them.
So the bait ball and shark is about 30 metres from me and now in the whitewater, which I will have to duck dive, imminently.
You're fcuking joking, I thought. So I turned around and rode the whitewater straight back up the rocks.

stood on the rocks for about 5 minutes thinking about how stupid it would look trying to get a gofundme page up if I did get bit and couldn't work.......then jumped off and sat really wide waiting for these long period sets that were really amazing freight trains. With no fear.
Insta-mums put more fear into me than sharks, true.

Ive been downshifting up and down through quiver lately. Enjoying that a lot. There is a very big difference between standard high performance shortboards made with no wave in mind and my custom boards made with specific requirements. This MC with its concave, but mainly the nose to tail tucked edge rail feels so positive and drivey.

As I get older my surfing feels like its still improving in good waves. That might be delusional, but it sure feels better.
Conversely it feels worse, so much worse in shitty surf.

channels wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:58 am

Cranked wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 10:39 am

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:21 am

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked?

Technically I guess, I have surfed twice on my 8' McCoy, once for 30 minutes, the other for an hour.

ATM I can't do push-ups nor chin-ups, but I'm working on easier variants. I'm adding about 10% more load to my exercise routine nearly every day and surfing when there's reasonable surf (about once/week).

I'm going back in the biggest and most consistent month of the year and there is no-where small to surf on the bukit near where I stay, and now I'm not keen on riding a bike anywhere really, so I'll be tempted to surf whats available locally.

Cranky - how are you finding your power in both paddling and popping up?

After i had rehabbed my screwed shoulder, i did a lot of weights work to get strength back but first surf i realised the work i had done was slow and controlled. I needed a lot more work developing the explosive power for sprint paddling and pop ups.

I did 10 push-ups and 10 pop-ups a week ago and there was significant shoulder pain the next day, so I stopped everything for 2 days and went back a week in my fitness schedule.

I am getting to my feet fairly smoothly on my 8' McCoy (its a quad-zillion litres), and really I'm not expecting to do much during my 2 weeks in Bali. I would be happier if it was late season and small (I'll be back in Sept and Nov). Any pain and I'll stop surfing until it goes, so I anticipate a lot of down time.

keep your surfs short and sweet.