Just general surfing stuff

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ajohnsen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by ajohnsen » Thu Jul 11, 2019 3:08 pm

Great read. Thanks thud.

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Thu Jul 11, 2019 3:38 pm

As I've posted here before, Terry shaped me two Driftas in about 1984, a 6'8 and a 6'4. They were made for Gragagan and I caught some of my best waves ever on them.

And I think Nick was the prince of Driftas at the time
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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jul 11, 2019 4:36 pm

Geez Terry Fitz writes well.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:36 pm

And here's the footage. Big Red about halfway through. Some of my favourite surfing to watch.

https://youtu.be/4jfGO2a2myQ
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:37 pm

Cranked wrote:
Thu Jul 11, 2019 3:38 pm
As I've posted here before, Terry shaped me two Driftas in about 1984, a 6'8 and a 6'4. They were made for Gragagan and I caught some of my best waves ever on them.

And I think Nick was the prince of Driftas at the time
'81 for me. I went down Terry's "battle the thruster" road for a while, me and Gary "Stickman" Green. We rode very short versions at the time, I kinda look back on it and realise that through those rounded off noses they unintentionally did what people did way later in the late Noughties, cutting down length without losing pace. I think my best one was 5'8", got through the Quiky Trials to the Bells main event, then a month later won an Aussie title on it. Stickman and I kept surfing 'em through that whole winter, stoned out of our minds, thinking about maybe putting Velcro on the deck and on booties so we could do aerials.

Then I got TF to make me a three fin and it was goodbye Driftas.

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:15 pm

I’m enjoying them having the surfers commentate a heat at Jbay. Some different insights. And I’m warming to Filipe. He actually seems pretty humble.
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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:31 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:42 pm

BA wrote:
Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:15 pm
I’m enjoying them having the surfers commentate a heat at Jbay. Some different insights. And I’m warming to Filipe. He actually seems pretty humble.
Filipe is the humblest, happiest person you can imagine. He’s also quite emotionally vulnerable. Great guy to surf with.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jul 11, 2019 7:46 pm

Fanning is a terrible guy to surf with.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:04 pm

Why is that? Out of interest.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:46 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:42 pm
BA wrote:
Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:15 pm
I’m enjoying them having the surfers commentate a heat at Jbay. Some different insights. And I’m warming to Filipe. He actually seems pretty humble.
Filipe is the humblest, happiest person you can imagine. He’s also quite emotionally vulnerable. Great guy to surf with.
I saw Felipe and Medina at Maroubra about 5 years ago. Very humble and friendly.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jul 12, 2019 5:50 pm

btw none of you cnuts are going to the Maldives in the next week are you?

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Fri Jul 12, 2019 7:55 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Jul 12, 2019 7:59 pm

performant?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:02 pm

AJ, I can't remember if I posted this before but I can't be arsed to look back. Anyway, I hate boots. You can't not wear them here in the winter and in the past I've just worn them all the way through to avoid the this-feels-weird transitions. This year though I though fcuk it, I'm taking them off and I'm taking them off early. So I did. The water was 12 degrees but I had just bought a brand new 4/3 which was/is absolutely toasty. Now, circulation is as circulation does and it may well be the case that your feet would be cold regardless but it may be worth going up a mil with your suit and seeing whether that allows you to keep the booties off

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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:03 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:04 pm

put a fcuking hood on and maintain the heat!

if your head is warm your feet are warm: fact!
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:12 pm

hoods are abysmal. Avoid the hood AJ!

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