Ask Carroll

[spork]

Yeah I was referring to the old D fin logs. There's a 16yrold here who can do all the old drop knees and walking things on one, who also rips on a HPS and can do all the airs and things too. Just one of those prodigy types who surfs for fun and has never been in a comp. What about a modern high performance mal? Those things are pretty good fun to ride and I've seen some very impressive work on them.

[andy2476]

What about a modern high performance mal? Those things are pretty good fun to ride and I've seen some very impressive work on them.

wawawawawawawawawa Tard Alrert

sport could take out the gammy's with this comment alone

[Animal_Chin]

What about a modern high performance mal? Those things are pretty good fun to ride and I've seen some very impressive work on them.

wawawawawawawawawa Tard Alrert

sport could take out the gammy's with this comment alone

Seconded.

[Nick Carroll]

What about a modern high performance mal? Those things are pretty good fun to ride and I've seen some very impressive work on them.

I've never seen the point. To me they are more irritating than an old school logger. At least a classic early 60s log promotes a classic unique style of surfing - and it plays off shortboard ripping really well. Like one of the skill drills I tend to set elite surfers who look for a circuit breaker is this: learn to cross walk a classic mal. In learning that skill you tend to rediscover the relaxed upper body which is at the heart of modern surfing technique.

No such learning can be found on a modern high performance mal. I know a few guys who surf wonderfully on 'em, but they're an evolutionary cul de sac and they don't connect with any other kind of surf craft really. I don't personally find them fun to ride, they want you to surf like a high performance shortboard from about 1985 which is fcuken boring to me, but whatever.

[Beanpole]

Yeah, I started log riding on an old pig board with a reverse D fIn. A mate had found it in the Salvation Army Store in Marrickville. Also used to borrow a mates brothers Midget Farrelly that lived in the outside dunny at his place.

When I finally decided to buy one I got a high performance one with a widow maker set up. Had some fun but it really used to annoy me because it kept pushing you to turn when you didn't want to. Single fin only for mals I reckon.
I don't ride my old favourite that much because I'm to lazy to lug the thing down the beach.

[spork]

I'll except the Gammy with good grace, thanks guys.

[Animal_Chin]

I'll except the Gammy with good grace, thanks guys.

Don't get too carried away.

There's plenty of other contenders lined up.

[spork]

No really, I like mini mals too!

[steve shearer]

I wanna surf my nutz off this swell.....I want to walk like a sumatran tiger in the jungle and glide noiselessly , kill ceaselessly, fall from tall branches like a leopard.
Swing on anything I feel. No excuses, no regrets.

Any advice for nutrition/recovery for a sustained pointbreak campaign over the week?

[steve shearer]

Carroll has the fountain of it .........doesn't he?

I thought he could swim the Molokai channel with one arm tied behind his back.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Nick Carroll]

I wanna surf my nutz off this swell.....I want to walk like a sumatran tiger in the jungle and glide noiselessly , kill ceaselessly, fall from tall branches like a leopard.
Swing on anything I feel. No excuses, no regrets.

Any advice for nutrition/recovery for a sustained pointbreak campaign over the week?

OK here we go

warm up properly before paddling out. Like take some time to warm all the big muscles. This'll lessen the micro tearing of muscle fibres which causes post exercise stiffness and soreness.

spend your energies wisely. Leopards don't waste time chasing animals they can't catch.

have a nice Radox bath at the end of each day, 20 mins minimum, then wash off with a brief cold shower and a half hour stretch. You could go hog wild and precede the Radox bath with an ice bath but ice baths seem only to work well if they're taken within 20 mins of finishing the exercise, and they're a bit obsessive really.

get plenty of sleep.

food, don't be scared of carbohydrates, they're your friend especially prior to exercise. Start the day with some solidish (oatmeal, even rice is good) and some less so (fruit smoothies are good). Eat small but constant throughout the day, and try to eat some clean pure protein within a half hour of every surf's finish. Drink constantly, half and half water and electrolyte mix, Gatorade is actually pretty good for this despite its jock marketing.

listen to your body closely and if it says Rest, then Rest, no matter what the surf's like.

listen to your instincts and ride the board/s you feel you want to ride, even if they don't logically appear to fit the conditions.

probably most important, relax! it'll be a great few days of surf, you're gonna enjoy the shit out of it. pass on the stoke to others around you, enjoy their company etc. The rewards of it can be felt in enriched connection with your family and friends. No one ever says that about surfing but I reckon it should be a part of every surfer's life, it keeps you spiritually healthy.

[Nick Carroll]

Carroll has the fountain of it .........doesn't he?

I thought he could swim the Molokai channel with one arm tied behind his back.

I dunno about that, but I swam 20 x 100 on the 1.25 this morning, that's pretty good for an ageing midget.

yeah the swell's not really here yet.

[steve shearer]

probably most important, relax! it'll be a great few days of surf, you're gonna enjoy the shit out of it. pass on the stoke to others around you, enjoy their company etc. The rewards of it can be felt in enriched connection with your family and friends. No one ever says that about surfing but I reckon it should be a part of every surfer's life, it keeps you spiritually healthy.

Thanks, all great advice.

Surfed the same Point I surfed yesterday, bigger than I've ever seen it hold with so much water moving and thick, sand sucking tubes.
The best thing was the vibe in the water with old faces I hadn't seen in a while. So good. Love the camaraderie.
Heaps of punishment, be good to relax in the bath.
Don't know how the beloved will handle me relaxing in a bath during prime time....that might seem a tad self-indulgent.
What about sex?

[Yuke Hunt]

What about sex?

If the baths big enough, go for it.

[ctd]

What about sex?

spend your energies wisely. Leopards don't waste time chasing animals they can't catch.

[Nick Carroll]

Don't know how the beloved will handle me relaxing in a bath during prime time....that might seem a tad self-indulgent.
What about sex?

think laterally shearer. have sex with her in the bath.

[PeepeelaPew]

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