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Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 10:03 am
by Cranked
8', 4000kJ swell for bali when I return monday week.

Virtually offshore all day everyday for the next 6 months. Ain't nowhere else in the world with stats like that

:-D-:

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 10:17 am
by marauding mullet
It's a great time to be a surfer here, especially when you get every second week off. :-)(

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:29 am
by Cranked
Saw that you got a good mal MM.

One thing I like about mals is, even if you haven't surfed for 6 months or more, you can paddle out and have a good time.

What I don't like though is that you can jump off a shortboard and ride a mal OK with an hour, but going from a mal back to a shortboard seems to take forever to adapt.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:24 pm
by marauding mullet
there's always a catch

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:07 pm
by Beanpole
Catching a big open face on a 9' mal feels great. The length feels like it fits into the wave. It's a different feeling.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 4:50 pm
by Beerfan
Unless you have a too small centre fin and as you lean it over hard it pops out and you face plant haha

Re: Autumn

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 6:31 pm
by Beanpole
:-?
Who would do such a thing?

Re: Autumn

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:13 am
by Beerfan
I have. Huie made me a 7 1/2 greenough which was awesome as a 2+1 in my old 9'2" ( and in smaller stuff just by itself ). Got into a beauty one morning, bit overhead and steep and leaned it hard off the bottom and it just slipped out. Should've put the 8 1/2" in

Re: Autumn

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:01 am
by crabmeat thompson
steve shearer wrote:
Sun Apr 22, 2018 8:39 am
And....back to onshores.
yeah... it's been a stuttering fucking mess, this autumn. throw in the shit banks from the constant pounding of swell and onshores and it's the worst one in a while, huh?

Re: Autumn

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 9:15 am
by steve shearer
Worst ever.
Fcuking debacle.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:45 pm
by steve shearer
finally a ray of light.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:36 pm
by Beanpole
More east in the swell today. Bank handled the little swell much better before the wind came up. So that's five weeks of surfing six days a week.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:11 pm
by crabmeat thompson
saltman wrote:
Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:25 am
Last couple of mornings - had a glide on an 8-1
glassy peaks out front. Banks are almost resembling something with shape
yeah, i've found some sneaky good banks. right under everyone's nose, yet they're strangely empty!

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:28 pm
by foamy
Is your foot getting better?

Re: Autumn

Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:17 am
by crabmeat thompson
still sore when it bends mate, like duck diving is still the worst. and surfing backhand is still nearly impossible, but the pain is becoming more manageable. i can do push ups on it which is a solid improvement. it still comes up sore and a little swollen if i'm on me feet all day or after a run.

but yeah, much improved. i literally couldn't bend it for over 3-months. just madness, really.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 3:38 pm
by Nick Carroll
this isn't autumn. Autumn is postponed until winter.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 7:01 pm
by steve shearer
God I hope so, but I have a nasty gut feeling this whole low energy period is going to culminate in a big winter bank busting storm which is going to leave us with boat harbours instead of Point breaks.

Re: Autumn

Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 9:03 pm
by black duck
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu May 03, 2018 3:38 pm
this isn't autumn. Autumn is postponed until winter.
Glow-ball warming says hi !