RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Braithy wrote:wouldn't it be easier just to tell you street names?

I prefer at least some sort of a challenge!!!

Donweather wrote:

Braithy wrote:wouldn't it be easier just to tell you street names?

I prefer at least some sort of a challenge!!!

ok, okay. i hear you holmes.


what if i spell them backwards?

skipper wrote:so how does one account for and comprehend the avoidance of serious injury from all the recent footage of JOB installing himself in some truly hideous shore breaks ? ... kinda rhetorical really. as a sage once said "be water".

it's a little luck, but it's mostly he's super confident and relaxed out there. they say you can fall from a large height, even be hit by a car (to some degree) and if you're relaxed rather than rigid with fear/ stress your bones cushion impact (think, like a cat) rather than splinter and crack through rigidness.

that's why i love him.

So you are suggesting surfing shore breaks when drunk or high is the best way to avoid injury? Or thinking of yoga, I guess.

What do you reckon is the depth required for, say, a head high wave before you would thinking hitting the bottom is virtually impossible (recognising there will be unique situations)? My thoughts are it would be pretty hard to hit the bottom if it was maybe 4ft deep, assuming you werent doing a swan dive

years of training, an insurmountable knowledge of self, locale, conditions and as well as an innate sense of self preservation.
something most recreational surfers don't have.

JOB is a brilliant athlete, waterman and surfing stunt guy. On the other hand, he has had lots of injuries, including breaking both his legs in separate wipeouts, breaking an ankle, knee and groin injuries etc etc.

Braithy wrote:

skipper wrote:so how does one account for and comprehend the avoidance of serious injury from all the recent footage of JOB installing himself in some truly hideous shore breaks ? ... kinda rhetorical really. as a sage once said "be water".

it's a little luck, but it's mostly he's super confident and relaxed out there. they say you can fall from a large height, even be hit by a car (to some degree) and if you're relaxed rather than rigid with fear/ stress your bones cushion impact (think, like a cat) rather than splinter and crack through rigidness.

Brian Grazer was a producer on Blue Crush. He has produced lots of TV and movies. Everything from 'A Beautiful Mind' and 'Frost/Nixon' to 'How the Grinch stole Christmas' and 'Kindergarten Cop'. He said the thing he learnt from producing Blue Crush was that surfers relax thru a bad wipeout to reduce injury. He thought that was a great lesson that he was going to apply to dealing with life and the vicissitudes of the movie business.

Grazer's almost as prolific as Birmingham

foamy wrote:JOB is a brilliant athlete, waterman and surfing stunt guy. On the other hand, he has had lots of injuries, including breaking both his legs in separate wipeouts, breaking an ankle, knee and groin injuries etc etc.

I remember watching an interview with Liam McNamara and he said he got drilled surfing pipe, and as he was paddling back out, he could feel something banging on his back. It was his leg. He had broken his femur in two. They get injuries.

ctd wrote:So you are suggesting surfing shore breaks when drunk or high is the best way to avoid injury? Or thinking of yoga, I guess.

What do you reckon is the depth required for, say, a head high wave before you would thinking hitting the bottom is virtually impossible (recognising there will be unique situations)? My thoughts are it would be pretty hard to hit the bottom if it was maybe 4ft deep, assuming you werent doing a swan dive

on my wife's facebook a husband of one of her friends got carted headfirst into sand on a 2 foot mushy wave in thailand (yeah, no shit. thailand!) and fractured his neck and is lying in hospital in traction not sure how much of his body he can use.

i think we can get into all sorts of flukey positions surfing, and bad things can happen in the smallest, weakest of conditions.

the thing is if it's 4ft deep, the wave is not really going to be standing up if it's only a head high wave. wave height and shallowness/ depth is all relative to the wave which is breaking.

if that makes sense?

I've hit the sandbank head first once, in a wipe-out. Sheer dumb luck I did not break my neck.

The interesting thing that I learned in the process was that it is amazingly loud to hit your head against a sandbank. Like, you will not believe how loud it is unless you experience it.

If you break your neck, you probably go out with a real BIG BANG!

You'll be left wondering what that amazing noise was for the (very short) rest of your life.

yeah i got a concussion surfing kirra years ago. full whiplash and everything. it is a loud bang.

Braithy wrote:I think we can get into all sorts of flukey positions surfing, and bad things can happen in the smallest, weakest of conditions.

the thing is if it's 4ft deep, the wave is not really going to be standing up if it's only a head high wave. wave height and shallowness/ depth is all relative to the wave which is breaking.

if that makes sense?

I think waves break at a depth approx. 1.3X their height. So a 3ft wave will break in 4ft water, although whether that's 3ft surfer scale or some other scale I don't know. But obviously the depth can go from 8ft to 2ft instantly (jacking up steep wave), or it might go from 4.5ft to 4ft (soft rolling wave). Plus wind etc

So, yeah, my question probably had too many variables for a proper answer. But I figure if the water is 4ft deep, then the risk is significantly reduced.

Like your other post about surfing in shin deep water - not sure I could do that. Sure I'm not getting steep drops and barrels, but I'm not surfing boards for that either nor am I good enough not to stuff it up at least once.

This was the cover of a smorgasboarder magazine. One benefit of not being a good surfer is that I don't have to surf places like this just to get a thrill...

Sandy Beach on Oahu. A sand beach with a lively shorebreak mostly enjoyed by bodysurfers and bodyboarders. Not that unlike plenty of lively shorebreaks here. According to Oahu lifeguards, Sandy’s has more injuries than all the other beaches combined.

So El Nino is official

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/enso/index.shtml

time to hit the training hardcore.

Braithy wrote:time to hit the training hardcore.

???