RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Donweather wrote:Sorry, I have accidentally opened the Gardening Thread instead?

any spinach growing at your place we should know about?

wow at the transformation from gnarl to sunshine.

Anywhere surfable yet?

Fishing will be off the hook next week.

nah, it's a big mess. I'm going to fish a dirty water mullet patch and try for a monster jewie.

Surfed Nationals from 6 to 9 this morning. To full on the high but the last hour was so fun. Breaking well wide at the pot and connecting through to johnsons. Best thing was the lack of crowds??? Getting busy when i got out and the hordes were descending. Enos should be on this arvo

some epic beaches around here. looks like the (some that I saw) banks aren't in too bad shape.

i never surfed though. i got the shit beat out of me camping and surfing up north. i've got whiplash, migraines and i haven't broken my big toe, but i will lose the nail.

the banks are scarce here. there were about a dozen good banks around me in a 10km radius ... now there's 3.

and while these 3 are pretty much cooking 24/7 and i'd give them a 9 ... so to are the crowds.

i preferred the old set up. 12 or so banks that rated a 6-7, which I could surf by myself whenever i wanted. compared to three banks which rate a 9 or 10, but with a minimum of 20 guys on them at any point.

Just give us the GPS coords!!!

i don't do gps wankery don.

wouldn't it be easier just to tell you street names?

Day 5 of straight E groundswell with offshore winds. This would have been the week of the Autumn.

Instead we've had high tide rockbreaks and mile out to sea shifting close-out beachies to choose from.

Underscores that on this stretch of coast bathymetry is by far the most crucial ingredient in making quality surf. If the sand is good the waves are good.

steve shearer wrote:
Underscores that on this stretch of coast bathymetry is by far the most crucial ingredient in making quality surf. If the sand is good the waves are good.

word to your mother. same as here. easily the most frustrating bit about living & surfing around here. the reliance of carefully groomed sand.


surfed a bit of a thumping, albiet a little lully, beachie just now. caught the first wave of the set (they were the best from y'day), kicked out & turned around to see the guy in the wave behind me just locked into a screaming backhand barrel. his inside rail caught and rolled him over inside the tube, he came up holding his head and moaning.

i couldn't see any blood, so i paddled out the back and caught another wave. got chewed up and looked to the beach and that same guy is on all fours in the sand with water washing around him, he looked like he was in strife.

turns out he heard & felt a crack in his neck when his head got pulverised into the cement hard sand & couldn't feel his arm and hand. rang an ambo for him and got him sorted then paddled out back out for a few more.

hope his neck isn't broken, but the ambos weren't hopeful.

heavy. seems more people break necks on shallow sand banks than reefbreaks.

steve shearer wrote:heavy. seems more people break necks on shallow sand banks than reefbreaks.

yeah the false sense of security sand offers. gets you doing things and upping your commitment to levels you normally wouldn't.

but man ... the sand is so compressed and hard where i was at. i bounced a few times off it, one time completely knocked all the wind outta me. can't be any softer than concrete in some places.

One of the benefits of my local is that it's a rock bottom. Sand moves on and off the beach but simply gathers out in the channel away from the break and returns to the beach in its own time.
One of the downsides of my local is that it is a rock bottom and regardless of how hard sand might pack, rock is harder.
Had some great waves over the last few days - along with some extreme smashings.
Had one this morning. Beautiful wave, lined up nicely, got in a turn and pulled up high for speed. Just trimmed and caught a bit of chop. Launched me and I landed on my left side way out in front of the board. Bounced (I'm sure I bounced). Then the wave hit me. Didn't actually hit the bottom but fcuk it sure got dark down there for a while.
Naturally it was the first of a 5 wave set.

My ribs and left hip are still sore.

But somehow, a session which includes both good waves and heavy wipe-outs seems more satisfying than a session with just good rides.

BTW. Spell check doesn't recognise "smashings" so I'm claiming a new word.

I almost got scalped at Tallows one day I face planted the bottom so hard.

so how does one account for and comprehend the avoidance of serious injury from all the recent footage of JOB installing himself in some truly hideous shore breaks ? ... kinda rhetorical really. as a sage once said "be water".