winter fourteen

What surfer doesn't care about the weather? Who hasn't predicted the arrival of a new swell? Do all of it here!

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:17 am

i think i much prefer to just play golf, womble.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Yuke Hunt » Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:06 am

Braithy wrote:i think i much prefer to just play golf, womble.
You could still play golf, you'd just be teeing off on the back nine ... :shock:
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by LPJ » Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:47 pm

Reading this is more painful than the shark bite I got, little grey one waggled up out of the sandy broth for a taste. Waiting for surgery; very minor tendon damage and two deep gashes on the hand, actually not that bad at all. The mission alone was worth it but, only thing I didn't have was epic point waves and a mantra ray. All else was sublime.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Trev » Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:53 pm

LPJ wrote:Reading this is more painful than the shark bite I got, little grey one waggled up out of the sandy broth for a taste. Waiting for surgery; very minor tendon damage and two deep gashes on the hand, actually not that bad at all. The mission alone was worth it but, only thing I didn't have was epic point waves and a mantra ray. All else was sublime.
Post of the week so far. :mrgreen:

Hope you heal quickly LPJ.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by marauding mullet » Fri Aug 29, 2014 7:43 pm

LPJ wrote:Reading this is more painful than the shark bite I got, little grey one waggled up out of the sandy broth for a taste. Waiting for surgery; very minor tendon damage and two deep gashes on the hand, actually not that bad at all. The mission alone was worth it but, only thing I didn't have was epic point waves and a mantra ray. All else was sublime.
Wobbegong?
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by LPJ » Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:02 pm

Cheers Trev.
MM I might've had one of them suss me out on Tues when the water was clear, but yesterday it was grey. Did it manage to get a grip on ya?

Also, should I report this for stats somewhere?

Lastly, re weather/surf: E seems to have (by ear report) peaked Mon AM. Tu/We might've been 6 max just around the corner and further out washing through. We still not really groundswell periods, but did stretch out. Th maxing from close range S windswell. Winds went real fruit on We but the obs don't show it, light NW - mod W through S ish - strong NW.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by marauding mullet » Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:28 pm

LPJ wrote: Did it manage to get a grip on ya?.
No, I did a bit of Irish dancing though.
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foamy
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by foamy » Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:23 am

interesting comment by Evosurfer on Swellnet about Kirra on Thursday.

"I dont give two hoots what every so called expert out there says. Thursday action was the best Kirra I've surfed or seen and I have been chasing cyclone swells for Kirra for 25 years.
Yes it does not break close to the rocks and feels a little weird breaking wide or so far in front of the groin but it was holding some big solid waves with wide open monster pits. IMHO it holds much larger waves and goes longer past North Kirra life saving club. Only downfall was the longer walk back. Bigger and better than ever I think."

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by steve shearer » Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:04 am

new swell cycle, potentially long lasting, due next week.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:19 am

really shep, more swell is coming? I'll go check seabreeze and see what they say.


lol swellnet comments. kirra holds bigger waves, now? it never got over 6ft, nobody knows what it holds. everyone here knew there was good sand around, but the absence of the reef, little groyne and greenmount (kirra has always followed the sand line from greenmount, not snapper like it does now), everyone is expecting that good sand to eventually wash out. Noticed a huge difference just from monday to yesterday, as far how the bank was holding up and lining up. heaps more closeouts y'day, a fat section right in the middle where a (bunch of sand got scoured out?) ... really imo, without little groyne, kirra now will become a mythical event where if we're lucky enough to have 6 months of a flat spell for the sand to build up for a once a year event like we just had.

another factor possibly is; everyone (ie pro photogs & pros and old timers who've lived here for 40 years etc) are all absolutely certain big groyne never got anywhere close to the 60 metre rebuild and is at least 10-15 metres short of where it used to be. it was a token gesture from Tom Tate to extend the groyne, and most feel a cynical one to get his terminal cruise & casino through for the spit by "rebuilding kirra" and claiming he has the surfer's interests at heart...

anyway, I digress. time will tell if kirra is back, but 99% of the guys I surfed and spoke to reckon it was something to saviour as who knows when it'll be back like this again?

speaking of swellnet ... i looked up their wave model a few times & read matsons report through this last swell and CW & macartney were way more onto it all. He was calling the correct size the the whole event and subtle little shifts in direction early on in the swell from e/ne (last wknd and into monday), while SN were persisting with the e/se call and calling it (somedays) 2 foot smaller than what it was ... so much so the alley was completely unsurfable last weekend and into monday due to the e/ne direction. Sunday saw the alley completely empty except a few windsurfers out wide & deep. that'd never happen in 4-5ft E swell with 25knt S winds. never.

size wise, that monday I surfed kirra -- imo, the best of the days (if you didn't have a ski) not much sweep, true dead east direction, crew weren't onto it yet -- 400+ up at snapper & rainbow and 30 at kirra(?!), and she was throwing super square & wide thanks to the little ne element in direction.

in general sn was super confusing for this whole event here ... his wave model overcalled it, ben's forecast undercalled it. is it just me, but does ben's extended forecast, hardly ever line up with what his model is calling for? I found his model next to completely useless.

anyway that was my obs for the first time i'd been on sn since I quit there, ironically because I thought they were kooking it.

:lol:
Last edited by crabmeat thompson on Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sat Aug 30, 2014 11:02 am

sand update.

there are all kinds of holes in the beachies here and there. but there are heaps of funky collections of sand here and there that are spitting out all kinds of joy. it's not a write-off by any stretch.

tell me more about next week shearer, will it be a good swell or a bank buster?
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by alakaboo » Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:56 pm

This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sat Aug 30, 2014 1:30 pm

super kirra-esque beachies!!
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Trev » Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:11 pm

alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by tonks » Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:25 pm

Surfed a spot on the tweed this morning. Still some pretty solid sets coming through but tide was killing it :( Still had fun though and didn't have to share with 300+ a few ks north

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by saltman » Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:15 pm

Just checked the beachies 10 minutes ago - half the size of early this mornng!
there will be some interesting pockets of sand around though
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:51 pm

Trev wrote:
alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.

I'm not sure many longboaders 'get it' trev. And that's no disrespect to your craft and what you do.

The best barrels in my life are the ones where I've paddled over the ledge, heart in my mouth, and at that very moment in time I've given myself about a 0.00001% chance of making it, but despite the odds I've come out the other side upright.

Its all the beatings your body takes, it's all the air your lungs require but don't have as you get steamrolled a storey under water, and your willingness to rinse and repeat this process until you come out the other side ... that's what makes it so fcuking sweet when you make one in about 15 when it's super thick.

Hence the whole, just about every big wave surfer (around for the cape fear event) paddling around a kirra lineup this week like they've just been touched God ... yet it was only 4-6 foot.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Trev » Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:18 pm

Braithy wrote:
Trev wrote:
alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.

I'm not sure many longboaders 'get it' trev. And that's no disrespect to your craft and what you do.

Its all the beatings your body takes, it's all the air your lungs require but don't have as you get steamrolled a storey under water, and your willingness to rinse and repeat this process until you come out the other side ... that's what makes it so fcuking sweet when you make one in about 15 when it's super thick.
That's not surfing. You can do that body surfing. And not have to worry about getting hit by your board. :-)(
I curse their head & all the hairs of their head; I curse their face, their brain, their mouth, their nose, their tongue, their teeth, their forehead, their shoulders, their breast, their heart, their stomach, their back, their womb, their arms, their legs, their hands, their feet & all their body, from the top of their head to the soles of their feet, before and behind, within and without

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