Autumn, how's it lookin'

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pridmore
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by pridmore » Wed May 18, 2011 1:39 pm

and the movement of sand around river mouths....

Donweather
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Donweather » Wed May 18, 2011 2:52 pm

alakaboo wrote:I reckon coffee rock and refraction are key Don.
Please explain further?

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steve shearer
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by steve shearer » Wed May 18, 2011 3:25 pm

Key for semi-stable sand formations and breaking up long lined swells into more peaky formations?

Agreed.

Any offshore change in bathymetry that can cause swell refraction in the near--shore zone is worth it's weight in gold.
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by alakaboo » Wed May 18, 2011 3:58 pm

Well the coffee rock bit is just a theory too, but it seems like a lot of the recent erosion hotspots in SEQ and northern NSW are linked to the exposure or near exposure of coffee rock, in locations where there are remnant lakebeds or old river entrances. Often in the lee of river entrance training walls.
This makes it very difficult for the banks to stabilise and re-establish.
If the general state is one of low sand supply, and you can find a place with an uninterrupted supply of sand you'll likely do better.
Though sometimes they can be great, trapping sand and forming permanent rips and banks. Depends a bit on the state of the coffee rock I think. (edit-Steve just said that)

Regarding refraction, I can't really 'verbalise' what I mean, but Mark's secret spot (not that secret, but let's pretend) would be about where I would expect south swells would be hitting at a good angle given the islands and headlands to the south.
I'd need to know more about the swell history to try and get my ideas together.
In other spots the presence of offshore reefs is important. Long period waves bend a lot more, and tide influences the depth and hence refraction also. Get up high and figure out the angle of refraction and you can find the best spot along a stretch of beach given the incident swell angle. (edit, Steve said that too...but much more efficiently)

pridmore
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by pridmore » Wed May 18, 2011 4:15 pm

dont think I claimed to have a secret spot, if I did, my mistake, no secrets around here, it is all very well known and crowded...unfortunately....the trick around here is knowing when some lesser known spots are gunna be working ....

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by alakaboo » Wed May 18, 2011 4:18 pm

Nah, was just joking.
You'd have to crop your photos a bit better to claim any secret status... :)

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by pridmore » Wed May 18, 2011 4:25 pm

yep, dont even bother cropping and if it wasnt already very well known, I wouldnt post pics up,,,
although I do know a spot that is....better stop now.....haha :roll:

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Trev
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Trev » Wed May 18, 2011 4:41 pm

Check out Tiger's sig photo. 8)
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by tiger » Thu May 19, 2011 11:11 am

This pic below Trev, is actually at Kawana. I'm guessing you think it's halfway back towards you.

As far as the current bank situation goes most of the open beachies are a bit average. But there are decent enough banks around if you look, just got to be onto the tide phases that suit them. I've seen them a hell of a lot worse.

Thankfully we have more than a couple of beachies that have bathymetry/coffee rock influences, that do good things to long liney swells. They have been extremely tasty of late.
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Trev
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Trev » Thu May 19, 2011 11:56 am

tiger wrote:This pic below Trev, is actually at Kawana. I'm guessing you think it's halfway back towards you.
I stand corrected.... :oops:

You're right. I did. :roll:
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Donweather » Thu May 19, 2011 1:45 pm

tiger wrote:Thankfully we have more than a couple of beachies that have bathymetry/coffee rock influences, that do good things to long liney swells. They have been extremely tasty of late.
These tasty locations wouldn't happen to be closer to you Tiger than Trev would they!!! :wink:

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by diggerdickson » Thu May 19, 2011 6:19 pm

I know of some nice coffee rocks lying around, if only I could get time off to check out the banks and whats happening, knew of same real nice ones but that was a while ago and things could have changed by now. I hope that answers your earlier question don, by the way mate, didnt matter what tide on that special day :wink:
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Donweather » Mon May 23, 2011 8:53 am

Alakaboo, I surfed my secret spot on Saturday morning. Was OK early, a little rippy and wobbly on the low tide, but as the tide came in, winds dropped, crowd vanished, me and my 3 other mates scored some really fun, clean 3-4ft peaky tradewind swell. Although I reckon anything over 9-10 seconds period and low tide and the banks wouldn't be so great there.

And I'm liking the looks of the setup (forecast) for early next week with a low likely to form off the SE Qld/Nth NSW coastline!!! :D :D

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by alakaboo » Mon May 23, 2011 10:14 am

Cheers Don, exactly what I wanted to hear.
Those do seem to be the best conditions for it.

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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Donweather » Fri May 27, 2011 8:53 am

Gee, someone please pinch me....it is winter next week, isn't it!!! :D

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Trev
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by Trev » Fri May 27, 2011 2:04 pm

Donweather wrote:Gee, someone please pinch me....it is winter next week, isn't it!!! :D
It was here this morning Don............ 8) :wink:
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

diggerdickson
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Re: Autumn, how's it lookin'

Post by diggerdickson » Fri May 27, 2011 4:03 pm

Donweather wrote:Gee, someone please pinch me....it is winter next week, isn't it!!! :D
jeez, does that mean don that us queenslanders are going to have to start doing it tough and pulling out of the cobwebs the 1mill, 5 year old rashie to ward of the freezing cold water and wind, I certainly hope not, ive bought a thicker pair of boardshorts from woolies to get me through winter
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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