RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I like waves that are either really long or really short. For long waves, the Qld points, head high, on the great days. For really short waves. I really like a strong offshore wind and a peak that stands up and throws hollow onto the flats. Take off and drop straight into a wide barrel, maybe only a...

I don't think surfing retros as a change-up is bad for your surfing. Riding an old board that requires a different stance and use of your body weight can open up your mind and broaden your skills. Plus, it's fun. Plus, it's a history lesson. Plus, particularly for a young person, it frees you from t...

Nick, have you read 'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life' By William Finnegan?
Seems to include a lot of non-allegorical and detailed, first person point of view descriptions of his surfing experiences that you are also interested in writing.

On Swellnet, a great extract from William Finnegan's surfing memoir 'Barbarian Days'.
I was around at that time and it all seems very accurate.

http://www.swellnet.com/features/lucky- ... m-finnegan

No MrMik, Qld does not seem to provide good public stats on that, that is partly why the estimates hearing was interesting. NSW has much better published stats. Peruse their report. It is seems very good. Let's assume it is accurate. I think go to table 7, Page 20, which is Page 26 of the PDF. Thoug...

It was interesting to read the Qld shark catch figures. From the ABC Shark nets or drum lines will remain off 82 beaches from Cairns in far north Queensland to the Gold Coast. In the 2014-15 financial year, 621 sharks had been caught, including eight great white sharks, 251 tiger sharks, 111 bull sh...

The final 35 min act had delivered the greatest climax to a pro surfing event ever. Just not the climax that was expected. The true professional knows when to leave the stage. And what was more important, attending quickly to the post-shark interviews and immediate reaction shots that was of intense...

Yep, CJ's tube ride is a quirky classic.
CJ exited the tube diffidently. I think he was wondering whether anybody was still up.

http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/13 ... erBy=e1267

Both 'Blood and Thunder' episodes are still on iView, it says until 6 September.

alakaboo wrote: it just doesn't feel like I am a surfer only a person who can surf

I think that is the best approach. Thinking of yourself as 'a surfer' can be quite a constraining little box.

Sure, I agree, but then there are the waves available in Wales.
The Goldie, easy waves on tap, quite good, in warm water and on sandy bottoms.
That's why it is so crowded.
Surfing in Wales, that's hardcore. Maybe they need a break every now and then.

Fear of sharks haven't yet stopped me surfing good waves. Though I haven't been to the wild coast of Africa. But, if the sea wasn't too chopped up and there wasn't much surf on offer, I liked to dive in and swim a couple of kms. I particularly enjoyed the wildness of swimming around a headland or tw...

Oh dear, the Wave Garden has been closed due to an undisclosed technical issue that will require the pool to be drained. It will be interesting to see how the wave looks when it reopens. It seems to my ignorant eye that the wave is not quite as good as the concept would allow. Maybe they can tweak i...

An amusing little blog from Matt Warshaw about the WSL commentary, and not hitting the reef.
http://encyclopediaofsurfing.com/eos-bl ... ut-its-on/

On performance so far, most say Owen would be the favourite. So in control from deep and can get massive acceleration when required.

Some of JBay was top quality, if at the medium size range. And Owen Wright scored two perfect heats at Cloudbreak, so the waves must have been pretty darned good.

Sharks. They are a lot of fun until someone loses an eye.

I'm still digesting how good that Medina vs Florence heat was. Fantastic!
I'm calling it the greatest heat ever, of those heats held in short smallish inconsistent waves.