RealSurf Surfers' Forum

well that's your opinion foamy, I reckon it's mega cheese.Not that there's anything wrong with that. Fair enough Nick. In matters of subjective taste, there can be no argument. I would say, some people who didn't like Big Wednesday when they first saw it, watch it again decades later and find its h...

Getting a bit outside the remit of Ask Carroll, but this is a very nice film of Jan-Michael Vincent and Denny Aaberg's trip to Mexico, getting away from it all after the initial rather negative response to their film, Big Wednesday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdUlMc3B-4k With the years, there ha...

Just to clarify, when I suggested Big Wednesday, I wasn't joking. It has a couple of clunky moments, but I think it is an excellent movie about surfing. Not demographically accurate now, but still, it is a pretty exceptional dissection of the pleasures and glories of surfing and the small-time good ...

Beanpole wrote:It remains a definitive bit of surfing lore. If you had to pick three primary surfing reference point movies I would suggest it would be MOTE, Endless Summer and..........( ? )

.............Big Wednesday

Nick Carroll wrote:
they call average surfers "the public".

Nick, I thought you expressed that good and entirely fair point very concisely.
Ha, ha, ha, ha.

Hello Nick I read an interview from a few years ago with Peter Cole on hisurfadvisory.com He said he thought Waimea was changing. What do you reckon? -------------------------------------------------------------- HSA: Has Waimea changed? Has the contour of the bottom changed so that it doesn’t break...

All these companies are facing the same problem, my kids and yours dont want to be wearing the same daggy stuff/brand their Dad's ( ie us ) are still wearing. Billabong have never been able to build a youth look, they just keeping doing the generic one style suits all look, resulting in the obvious...

Re: Injuries, ill-health I think this is covered by the Failure to Compete rules. Rounds 1 and 2, the wildcard gets a go. From Round 3, the heat goes on, with perhaps a lone surfer, the assumption being that non-competing surfer may turn up. But, If the judges are convinced that the non-competing su...

You are, of course, correct Nick. Though, just talking about learners, they have a particular challenge, getting that clean 4 foot face wave to get your takeoff nailed. Learners are often relegated to the one and a footers. There's no appreciable drop and getting up is a lot more physical. Particula...

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I had to jam on the brakes once.

A female friend, a very active sports person, travelled into deepest darkest Wales to watch a soccer game. It was a great game which was followed by a huge night on the grog. Next morning, she and her mate drove unsteadily back across the border into England. Feeling desperately worse for wear, she ...

In Braithy's defence, weren't the waves overhead, dredging, with a bit of chop and a cross swell, and on most surfer's backhand? Bucking a little. Of all waves, those are the ones that most commonly defy the light touch. It's more clenched teeth, arm barred, pig dogging. Setting your weight low and ...

I was away last week on a surf trip and the only bit of the Fiji women's I saw was on ABC TV's News Breakfast with Virginia Trioli et al. They had some footage each morning, ran it a few times, and gave some heat result updates. They ran some good footage, some of it of women pulling in and not maki...

The women are surfing great. Their improvement has been impressive. I hear Steph Gilmore is one of the best out at Sunset. Given more time, they will start ripping Cloudbreak. Not all the women have the whole macho warrior code that fuels the hunger for these type of waves. That's cool. If they need...

Thanks Nick. It must be such a treat to know these legends of the surf. I thought your leashless Sunset surfing may have been influenced by him. Like you, he has a very strong competitive swimming background and thought the epic Sunset swim-in was an essential part of the fun. Your mention of his ye...

RIP Dr Rick Grigg.
I am very interested in these pioneers of modern surfing. Love their stories.
Nick, I imagine you must have been out at Sunset Beach with Peter Cole many times. Have you got any stories you could share about him?

Dear Nick Kelly Slater. While his Florida crap surf background is a widely acknowledged oddity for the best surfer ever, what I find even odder is that he reputedly is not an early riser. In fact, he is a late riser. I am an East Coast Aus surfer. You have to be up for the early. Beat the sea breeze...