RealSurf Surfers' Forum

My reincarnation as a surfer is scheduled for next Tuesday. I'll fill everyone in the vicissitudes I have suffered shortly. It's a cautionary tale.

Give the file to someone with a shaping machine? I've often thought that the custom board process should start with sitting down with a shaper and deciding on the 3D shape you want. You then get a copy of the file that you can use to get the blank cut and glassed , and as a starting point for your n...

Diffrraction by numerous gaps in the reef change a 3m swell into wonky 1m as the diffracted waves collide

The attenuated, wonky swell that comes over the reef. The swell exposure of the WA coast is mind boggling, way better than indo

There's about 10 quite good reef breaks spread over about 10k. If the offshore reef didn't block and disrupt the swell the area would really rate as a surf location, but it does and it isn't

70k south of Perth

Legion wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 05, 2019 8:38 pm

I'm surprised it was that small and only 2 out. It was still the odd 4'er where I went. But lots out.

Bitumens, 1pm. There were a few bigger ones. The others went in and I surfed by myself. It's pretty quiet down there in the middle of the day.

My second surf today, 2 out, shoulder high, caught a couple of waves, paddled about, no pain.

Things are looking good.

Influencers! Once the first one succumbs to steve's charms they will all be queuing up

What's this about the mums in Byron Steve. Do they also give you anaphylactic reaction.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyl ... d-builders

but proper step-ups can ameliorate the deficiencies in a sub-par skill set. Only because they stop people from trying to turn. god dickless fcuking urban vegans who can't turn a 6'3" in OH surf should be put against the wall. but no-one rides 6'3"'s anymore, we've been brainwashed into thinking any...

Re booties. I've gave up on them decades ago as I find my feet stick to the board too much.

I've been told though, that the secret is to just put a very thin film of wax on your board.

Does anyone agree?

Here's some ulus action. Last ones are best.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzVBclcHBMA ... _copy_link

Woohooooo! I'm back surfing! Just changed my existing ticket to go to Bali on 16 July (it was next Tues, a bit too early), just 2 weeks there this time. I already have my Sept and Nov tickets.

I'm gonna have to sit it out through a few big swells I guess.

And Nick has a new superman wetsuit that he is dying to show off to the Lennox crew

No pain or discomfort at all. Next is to slowly start piling on the hours on my biggest boards, then move onto the smaller ones

My first surf since mid March: head high, 6 in the water, paddled out, caught 2 waves and paddled in.

Anyone else catching the shark behaviour on ABC RN at the moment?

Most excellent, but I've missed most of it.