RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Perfect conditions, the swell has filled in, consistent double with triple overhead sets, 6 at the bommie, 2 at the peak and 10 at the corner.

Light offshore, glassy, a long wait for the double overhead sets. Thirty out at Padang, four at outside corner, no-one at the peak or the bombie

Legion wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:58 pm

It's about 20kt onshore here and pissing down. I'm about to go out and it'll probably be crowded.

Perth surfers are nothing if not keen.

Banks turned up just as I was finishing that last post and we're still jawboning
away.

Had an OK surf this morning, but fell heavily on my shoulder so I'm taking it easy watching from the cliff. 100% cloud cover, light offshore, swell an inconsistent head and a half, lazy doubles now and then. Twenty out at the corner/racetracks, another 10 on the other breaks. Everywhere is uncrowded...

Back to surf though. Things improved later in the day, wind light and offshore, the swell still holding up, four of us on the peak.

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 18, 2019 1:15 pm

Cranked, what are Indo buttons like?

Not sure, Hindu Sherwani buttons are pretty good though, like jewellery. This takes the button factory saga to a new level entirely.

Low tide, well overhead at 6am, double every now and then, glassy, just two of us at first. I managed to time a lull and paddle out easily this time. Only caught a couple, not much paddling power and a bit slow to my feet after surfing for only two weeks in the last seven months. It started to shut ...

We found my mates board. It got stuck in a cave and pounded into several pieces.

Just after I started paddling out the swell spiked for about 40 minutes - seemingly endless double overhead sets. I got swept down the reef and walked back, then just watched as a couple of guys get some awesome waves that shut down fiercely. Then, one by one, they came in. They turned out to be fri...

Surf here is most excellent and was uncrowded at a few spots when I checked it at 6am. I thought of going out, but jeeze, it was a rising full moon tide and who needs all that water pushing in? It'll be better on a falling tide and sunnier too. Low tide around sunset will be epic but crowded. And it...

Now I'm laying down in a three seater lounge at the empty, as usual, gate 55 departure lounge. Plane leaves in an hour, an old friend will pick me up at the airport, bike guy will have delivered my bike, my room will be ready, and I can ease my way back into surfing. Thank god. It seems like an eter...

At long last, I'm back in Bali tomorrow. For the next four months, the wind is going to be offshore, the swell is going to be from SW to SSW, and it will vary from overhead to double or occasionaly triple, every day. I'll wear a vest on some days.

As I've posted here before, Terry shaped me two Driftas in about 1984, a 6'8 and a 6'4. They were made for Gragagan and I caught some of my best waves ever on them.

And I think Nick was the prince of Driftas at the time

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shark_attack Australia has the highest number of fatal shark attacks in the world, with Western Australia recently becoming the deadliest place in the world for shark attacks[16] with total and fatal shark bites growing exponentially over the last 40 years.[17] Since 20...

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked? Technically I guess, I have surfed twice on my 8' McCoy, once for 30 minutes, the other for an hour. ATM I can't do push-ups nor chin-ups, but I'm working on easier variants. I'm adding about 10% more load to my exercise routine nearly every day...

And I just finished packing two nuggets: a 7'2 epoxy (55l) and a 7'4 poly (63l). Buoyancy baby, that's where its at.

I thought you were already back in the water Cranked? Technically I guess, I have surfed twice on my 8' McCoy, once for 30 minutes, the other for an hour. ATM I can't do push-ups nor chin-ups, but I'm working on easier variants. I'm adding about 10% more load to my exercise routine nearly every day...

My reincarnation as a surfer is scheduled for next Tuesday. I'll fill everyone in the vicissitudes I have suffered shortly. It's a cautionary tale.