RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Trev wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:36 pm

Thud is God?

lol
it is a good name for a god though.

oh mighty thud, if it pleases you, can you send us surf and exotic surfer girls

Oh god Thud spare me. Out of the frying pan and into the fire. I was just ruminating on whether to take my two epoxy boards (7' and 8' nuggests, both unridden but I've owned both previously). No I'm not going there.

Done and dusted thud

Oh great! That's a relief foamy

Dee Why today Magic Seaweed - very small waves 1-2 ft - 10 sec intervals Surf Forecast - 5-6ft - 400-500 Kilojoules Swellnet - 3ft with a 10 sec interval Swellnet closest Arrrgggggfftt. This is what I've been trying to convey to people Thud, 400-500kJ is 2-3 foot faces not 5-6', 1000kJ is 5-6' face...

Read that last paragraph and then understand why deep water equations for calculating Kj's are not appropriate. Nothing in your reference (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Waves/watwav2.html) refers to wave energy, let alone any method to calculate it or its relationship to breaking wave ...

So you don't know how to calculate the energy of a swell or a breaking wave in joules?

I'm giving up. I'll just accept what Surf Forecast says it is.

Cranked I think you need to read a bit more about waves in general. You are mixing up ocean waves and breaking waves, and your description of what you think happens when waves break is a bit loony. If 100 cubic metres of water, per metre of shoreline length, was deposited by each 1m high 12s period...

Lucky bastards! So I should check with UWA and Udayana University on the bukit to see if they've got something similar for the Indian Ocean?

I think its a bit alienating for me because its for an area that I don't surf or think about. If it was for the Indian/southern oceans I would probably sit up and pay attention and absorb it all pretty quickly, and remember it.

I assume you have to pay to get that sort of thing though?

This is because I think a swell with say 500kJs will produce similar waves at your local irrespective of whether the swell is 6' at 9s or 2' at 15s, and etc for larger kJ swells. Overall, all you need to know for most surfs is whether its under 500 (marginal for surfing) or 1000, 2000, 3000 or 4000...

Well you can do what I propose or you can read this: Here's a fully calibrated forecast from the best forecaster in the world, daylight second: Pat Caldwell. DISCUSSION: SUMMARY... Short-period N swell dropping with long-period S swell rising into the weekend. DETAILED:. Mid Friday on northern shore...

Here's the case for kJs in a nutshell. There seems to be agreement that surf forecasts are not very good at forecasting the size of breaking waves at specific surf spots but are pretty good at forecasting the prevailing swell height and period for an area. So its up to us to know what a specific swe...

BA wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:08 pm

Lets nip these stupid implied comparisons in the bud BA. Waves don't have any trans or saturated fats and are much better for you, just pure unadulterated energy.

Can someone please do a similar calculation for MM throwing a good haymaker punch.
This is more the sort of thing that would fix the concept of kinetic energy in nicks mind

It’s pretty obvious. A joule is equal to the energy transferred to an object when a force of one newton acts on that object in the direction of its motion through a distance of one metre (1 newton metre or N⋅m). Or in other words kg * m 2 / s 2 ; where kg is the kilogram, m is the metre, s is the s...

Am I getting the hang of it..? 200kJ - barely breaking, get out your log = 1 foot 500kJ - surfable, use your twinny = 2 foot 1000kJ - have fun on your small wave board = 3 foot 1500kJ - good overhead surf = 4 foot 2000kJ - really good head and a half, some doubles = 4-6 foot 2500kJ - consistently o...

nah it's fine, 2000 calories? most of us would walk that off. it is actually the thing that's been troubling me about all this fcuken Kilojoule talk though. What does it mean? Does it mean how much energy passes a certain point in a certain time? Does it mean the energy contained in some portion of...