RealSurf Surfers' Forum

2nd day in a row I have said fccck it and headed an hour and a bit south. 3-4 yesterday, super glassy, 3 other people out. 2ft today and running super fast, strong offshores fccked it up a bit at first but then they settled down and shared it one other bloke. Great little session This sounds eerily...

Just popped down t'local for an hour and went nuts. Scored about 12 reeling 2-3ft lefts, super fast but occasionally slowing up allowing for a more drawn out turn.

3 locals and 3 tourists. So, really, 3 locals. Crowd is filling in now.

What a time to be alive!

Exactly. Beans doesn't surf. Drives around looking for a park, has a look at the crowd, comments on the onshore left coming through and drives home.

foamy wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:59 pm

You have had some nice surf at The Point
Recent photo by Dallas Kilponen.

Man, that looks good.

I am excited. Frothing, even.

The GOAT in 'Gong https://www.facebook.com/134867026559159/posts/3115240628521769/?d=n Is that Wales? https://i.postimg.cc/FHMGfxJv/3-B59-B1-F0-1080-4906-BCD9-73-D5-E1-C8-C35-A.jpg If it is, I want nooooo part in it. I've never surfed this spot, as it looks very bloody heavy. Plenty of crew around ...

The GOAT in 'Gong

https://www.facebook.com/13486702655915 ... 21769/?d=n

I was moon drunk yesterday morning. Scored a long, silvery ride.

Once the crowd came down we repaired to a headland further north with 3 out and some great waves still coming through every now and then. Magic, stunning morning.

It was cranking down here! lack of boards let me down today, my point board in ding shop lockdown after connecting with my head last swell. Ended up on Hatchies old Garrett twin, which felt entirely wrong and skittish, I was crying out for a 'stick the drop' thruster that set me up for the next sect...

Damn the Illawarra and it's downslope winds!!! last night it looked the goods, this morning- blown off shore.

I like to call it a swim surf. Swimming with a board to keep you company

Got the rail of my board straight in the temple after it was wrenched from my hands trying to duck a monster set.

Came up seeing stars, really wobbly. Got myself a fat arsed eyebrow and really, really sore head.

Plus my outerislands board is cracked.

Fcuk!! Was having a blast too

wow some great waves around. Point was busy as fcuk but some bombs coming through. Managed to stick the drop on a wide one and make it right through to the sheds. Made me smile all day.

A few days of this!

So windy down here. Too windy

alakaboo wrote: ↑

Tue May 19, 2020 9:47 pm

I really like footage of Sunset with the bigger boards.
It's got a metronomic pendulum quality to it due to the drawn out turns, then you get the snaps and closeouts like an unexpected jazz solo.

That's a very good metaphor AND simile.

Thanks Nick. The wave Owens gets is pretty amazing too. Appreciate you sharing.

That last one you get is insane NC!

Looking back at it, what has changed in your surfing at Sunset between then and now?

Cool, the beans. Then what?


In other news, some OK waves around here this morning but not that big. Went from small but fun reefy right to bigger but slower deep water left in the space of 5 mins drive- one thing I love about this coast.

It's probably better, now I'm not surfing.