Where did you surf today ?

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Sep 15, 2018 4:26 pm

Then werri beach. And just now, a breakwall outer bar righthander all to myself with shoulder to head high sets. Lots of current running in the opposite direction. Had to sit wide, wait for it, then edge into the peak. Surfed the twinny again.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:40 pm

Went down for a late swim at about 5:45. There were a few little windblown peaks at Bronte. Would have paddled out on a foamy if I had one handy.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:14 pm

Thanks beanpole. Good to know.
Erase.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Sat Sep 15, 2018 9:04 pm

alakaboo wrote:
Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:23 am
Sent you a PM, Wyre.
I recommend sorting out the back problem with a decent diagnosis first. I'm doing exercises I know work for me, based on 20 years of advice from physios.
Thanks for the pm ‘Boo. Been trying to reply all day but the kids are like some kind of time-sucking monsters, unstoppable in their insistent needs and wants. Will get back to you!
@Thud, oh yeah I’m aware of that. My couch is the Brown Death of backs, I usually lie on the floor etc. it’s more than that, but slouching is the worst thing you can do I reckon.
Legion, I think there’s a mobility/core combo issue- although playing Bridge might be good for my mind.

Physio is just too expensive for me unfortunately. I respect it, but can’t afford it. I’ve been lucky cos my step dad is a highly respected Osteopath- when pain has been acute, he has been a godsend- but he can only do so much, especially when I can’t help myself and go surfing even when back is still sore as fcuk.

Anyway, I’m on it. This aggression won’t stand, man.
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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:07 pm

i was out on my son's softboard in the shorebreak this morning and a local kid came running shouting "can i have a go? can i have a go!" i went oh okay here you go and a head-high set came right when he got on it and pitched him straight into the sand. it was a full-on wipeout. for a moment i was afraid he was going to get upset or scared but no he came up laughing and asking for more.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:22 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:14 pm
Thanks beanpole. Good to know.
Then you will also be pleased to know I paddled out into some mush at Bronte and had a thoroughly poor showing today.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:54 pm

Interesting. Please elaborate.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:38 pm

Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside. Floundered around in the wind chop paddling against the rip on the left. Back to the right. I hate the reef at Bronte.

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marauding mullet
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marauding mullet » Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:46 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:38 pm
Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside.
No matter how many times I read this, I just cannot come to terms with it.
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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:48 pm

I had a huntsman in mine once. Bit me too.
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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:10 pm

I noticed one on my board as I was about to paddle out.
I left it on the sand at the waters edge. A long walk from anywhere it would want to be.
I often wonder what happened to that huntsman.
Erase.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:11 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:38 pm
Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside. Floundered around in the wind chop paddling against the rip on the left. Back to the right. I hate the reef at Bronte.
Image
Erase.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:14 pm

I've consulted with my medical team - the Brazillian lady next door, a surfing mate and the matriarch of the clan where I'm staying - and the verdict is that I can resume surfing tomorrow!
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:26 pm

And what a day to start: double overhead, perfect swell direction, light offshores and no crowds (WAM 4.1 now forecasts crowd size)
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:00 pm

Go, Cranky.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ? I

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:48 am

In the water at first light today. One other guy out.

Magnificent sunrise over the cliffs, inky black clouds, yellow orange light, light rain falling.

A big turtle popped up between us and looked us over, a huge ray breached, looking like Dracula or a giant bat.

I paddled in after nearly an hour. No waves ridden - great morning
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:55 am

Why no waves ridden?? Flat?
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:37 pm

About waist high, but it needs an offshore and bigger swell to work.

When there's no one out you don't have where people are sitting to gauge the swell size.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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