Where did you surf today ?

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Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:51 pm

Same NB spot today and 20 guys out (yesterday there were max 5).

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:23 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:43 pm
Lord, we get sick of those surf journos and big wave officiaonados lobbing at Bondi every time there's a bit of swell and a howling south Easter. Don't you guys use Coastalwatch?
Actually thought there was more chance of you talking to the Life Guards.
Hope you snared a dirty turmeric latte up at Gertrude and Alice on Hall St while you were there.
actually I spent a wonderful hour talking with Tyler Wright.

Tyler could take the entire Bondi Hipster population and all their silly schemes and flick them away with her little finger. Not that she would. Well, she might.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:24 pm

oh by the way....man what a splendid afternoon it's been

Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:00 pm

Bit of water moving around lunch time. The odd chunky set.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:58 am

Dawn session south maroubra reef. Absolutely heaving. Lots of water moving with late critical takeoffs. 50/50 mix of wide shutdowns and peaking walled up runners. You had to pick your waves. Dead low tide and a few rocks to dance around in the trough. Surfed the custom 6’4 Stuart Paterson rounded pintail single fin. Felt super smooth threading down the line then slicing off the top connecting the end section. Saw one guy mid-south end bank take off super late, pulled in standing tall and get spat out. Epic morning.
Last edited by Hatchnam on Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:59 am

blurgh quietened a lot today. Beef has gone from both swell directions, very pretty with the morning offshore though. Suddenly about 50 people out where there hasn't been more than 10-15 for three days. All good. It's cool seeing people making sensible choices about when to surf re their fitness/commitment/skills levels, it spreads the load a bit and everyone gets some

fcuk I've gotta catch up with some work, I can feel the dark thoughts radiating toward me from various quarters. Ie,Yes we know the surf's been good, but....(resentment etc)

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:29 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:59 am
Suddenly about 50 people out where there hasn't been more than 10-15 for three days. All good. It's cool seeing people making sensible choices about when to surf re their fitness/commitment/skills levels, it spreads the load a bit and everyone gets some

Miiiiaaaaoooooww!
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:50 am

Steve. You’ll be happy to know that my trip to the beach this morning only took 22 mins. Only an extra 12 mins drive than previous for a property at less than half the price :lol:
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:52 am

Ha!
Fcuk, dead set yesterday was otherworldly down here. Normal surf spots elevated to magical. Saw so many incredible waves go unridden, actually spitting sand. I actually got sand spat on me by a barrel. I want to re-play that day so I can catch some of the waves I watched!

One, solid 8' and a little bit (I dunno, what do you want, triple overhead?) broke left maybe 100m off the back of the north Newport platform. There's a nuts reef bit out there that feels like Pipe when you surf it. I'd just come in and watched this thing square up on that reef and peel Rockpile style back into Newport proper, constantly doubling itself up on the sandbars one after another. The thing went to the beach. Eat my fcuking shorts, wave pools.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:58 am

I still have no idea why you don't live in the Botany unit and rent out the Bankstown house Iggs.


It's weird how the human body works, apropos of nothing.
Yesterday, after a week of solid surfing, I felt really stiff and sore.
And I got so hammered, just rocking off and getting back in was a nightmare. Nightmare.
Coming in at the hut and having to abort the mission on the rocks because there were OH waves tripling up and smashing the rocks. Then paddling down to the bream hole against the current having to do about a hundred super critical duckdives to avoid being sushi on the rocks.

I'd discovered half way through the session that old legrope I pulled out from under the house was there for a reason and was so fin cut and sun damaged it was about to snap. So every wave, 6 ft double ups on the bank had to be duckdived.
One wave I tried to scratch into late, got held up, tried to pull back, realised I was going whether I liked it or not, freefell and landed the takeoff. Tried to pull in and wore the whole lip on the head. Felt like Jonah Lomu jumping out of a three storey building onto my head.

But after all that, this morning I feel fresh as a daisy. Light and loose.

Anyway, packing for Plomer now so probably no surf today. There's a huge bushfire burning there right now and residents enacting bushfire survival plans.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:19 am

Went for a quick dip before work. Tama looked great. Breaking way out. Beautiful conditions.

Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:28 am

Yes I was surprised to be one of 4 guys out yesterday. Surfed with a mate who likes Long Reef, so why not. Had a good time. The whole stretch there was empty and there were plenty of waves. Not the quality mentioned above, but good 4-6 with some protein in a few.
Last edited by Thud on Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:36 am

steve shearer wrote:
Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:58 am
I still have no idea why you don't live in the Botany unit and rent out the Bankstown house Iggs.
BIG difference in size and comfort, that’s why. And I’m not in Bankstown. I’m closer. Quick train ride to where AJ lives. Wonder what he’s up to?
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:44 am

Still some pumping waves about today.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:32 am

Sure is.
I curse their head & all the hairs of their head; I curse their face, their brain, their mouth, their nose, their tongue, their teeth, their forehead, their shoulders, their breast, their heart, their stomach, their back, their womb, their arms, their legs, their hands, their feet & all their body, from the top of their head to the soles of their feet, before and behind, within and without

ctd
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ctd » Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:39 am

steve shearer wrote:
Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:58 am
But after all that, this morning I feel fresh as a daisy. Light and loose.
DOMS takes 24 to 72 hours to peak...

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:01 pm

so having surfed hard Mon/Tues/Wed I should be feeling stiffer and sorer today , right?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:43 pm

ha ha what ctd is talking about is a wash-out if you're constantly exercising

the poundings yesterday will have worked a lot of shit out of your muscles that otherwise might be crimping you today. Heaps of oxygenated blood washing through ya.

you don't get that predictable muscle soreness on cue unless you don't do much for a week, then suddenly do some unusual exercise.

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