Where did you surf today ?

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: Butts, beach_defender, Shari, collnarra, Forum Moderators

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 15574
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Oct 17, 2020 1:17 pm

Chest to head high bowly peaks mid-gong beachie on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

User avatar
Wyre
Harry the Hat
Posts: 2786
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 6:23 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:08 am

Got a couple of great little barrels at Headies on the way to the shops. 3 guys out, glassy 2-3ft.

The surprise stoke!
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24148
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:01 am

Gentle offshore here at 6am.
Kicked off the comp.
Within an hour or so it was 16+ Knots NE.
In my main heat I got the highest wave score.
But couldn't buy a second wave.
Still 4th put of 6 somehow.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Beanpole
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 42877
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Oct 18, 2020 1:25 pm

Got a few today. Should have got out after the third one though as a variety of shit entered the line up. In this case the human variety that must have been dumped off a boat just offshore.

Last Mal Comp I went in, Trev, I had high hopes for my heat because I had been surfing that particular bank for a couple of weeks. Paddled out and a set came just as the hooter sounded. Another guy had actually taken off slightly before but they didn't call it back. Sat waiting for the next set.........and we all waited for the entire heat. Another wave didn't break for 20 minutes. So the first guy won.

channels
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 5923
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:36 pm
Location: Northen Beaches

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:01 pm

I went in a mal club comp up the northern beaches a few years back.

Nailed a fin first take off and managed to swing the board back around. Was stoked with it, got a few hoots.
When I went in, I was told that it didn't count as fin first take offs weren't a recognised scoring manoevre. Didn't bother with comps after that.

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 15574
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:10 pm

dawn raid. Chest to head high peaks south-bra on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Beanpole
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 42877
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:14 pm

I got one cracker today on the mal. Sat wide and further out. One walled up and broke fast right through to the shore break.
#tiptime

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 10511
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:02 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:10 pm
dawn raid. Chest to head high peaks south-bra on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz
When the rear foot is near the tail I reckon only about 9" of hard edged and rounded rail (plan shape) - right where the rail fin is - is engaged and it turns on a dime. I'm not sure just how many Nugget riders actually get to that stage of board control.
Last edited by Cranked on Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 15574
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm

For the most part my backfoot is placed right in the middle of the fin cluster, between the front fins and rear or even a bit further back.

Very easy board to turn in spite of the bulk.

It’s probably only thruster I can remember where my foot is that far back, and it feels natural to have it there.
Last edited by Hatchnam on Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

User avatar
Legion
Duke Status
Posts: 15380
Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:21 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm

Wait, so there's an inner sanctum of nugget riders?

And can someone explain what hard edged rounded means?

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 15574
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:27 pm

If you’re a back foot top to bottom type surfer I reckon you’d do well on a 5’10 nugget
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 10511
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:46 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm
For the most part my backfoot is placed right in the middle of the fin cluster, between the front fins and rear or even a bit further back.

Very easy board to turn in spite of the bulk.

It’s probably only thruster I can remember where my foot is that far back, and it feels natural to have it there.
Yeah, my rear foot is mostly in the centre of the fin cluster, but if I'm on a big open face and want to go vertical I'll slide it back against the tail block so I can come off the bottom and the top. On a decent size wave the tail has never let go on me.

Moving forward on the board does not make it go faster.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 10511
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:57 pm

Legion wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm
Wait, so there's an inner sanctum of nugget riders?

And can someone explain what hard edged rounded means?
I edited my original post. Tail is as per tail in the image below, but even sharper on the edge.

Rounded refers to the tail plan shape, Its so rounded that with your weight and back foot right back, there is not much of the tail in the water as you turn so it turns really sharply, but critically, it doesn't let go. Hence my surprise when my pintail with a big single and sides let go on the wave face last week.

Image
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 42877
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:42 pm

So if that's the case it wouldn't really matter that much how long it was.

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 10511
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Oct 18, 2020 7:45 pm

Sort of. I have 4 Nuggets 6'8 to 8' and they are all really similar. The width, thickness and weight goes up so you just can't throw the bigger ones around as much, but the 7'4 and 8' (63 and 72 litres) are paddling monsters.

I just love dropping in early on double overhead waves on them. I'm already driving down the line when the short boarders are still paddling and just getting to their feet.

I'd rather be on my 6'8 or 7' but my wave count would suffer. I'm no wave hog though, just getting my share.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 24148
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Sun Oct 18, 2020 8:07 pm

channels wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:01 pm
I went in a mal club comp up the northern beaches a few years back.

Nailed a fin first take off and managed to swing the board back around. Was stoked with it, got a few hoots.
When I went in, I was told that it didn't count as fin first take offs weren't a recognised scoring manoevre. Didn't bother with comps after that.
Well, of course it doesn't count.
If you'd combined it with a head dip however? 3-)
#sixfeetissixfeet!

User avatar
No Pants Lance
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 9533
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:26 am
Location: where wake collide

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by No Pants Lance » Sun Oct 18, 2020 8:24 pm

Cranked wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:57 pm
Legion wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm
Wait, so there's an inner sanctum of nugget riders?

And can someone explain what hard edged rounded means?
I edited my original post. Tail is as per tail in the image below, but even sharper on the edge.

Rounded refers to the tail plan shape, Its so rounded that with your weight and back foot right back, there is not much of the tail in the water as you turn so it turns really sharply, but critically, it doesn't let go. Hence my surprise when my pintail with a big single and sides let go on the wave face last week.

Image

Image

User avatar
The Mighty Sunbird
Duke Status
Posts: 15639
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
Location: Pogo's

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sun Oct 18, 2020 8:57 pm

Is that Kramer?
Erase.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests