Where did you surf today ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 10, 2019 11:28 am

In the water at 6am today. Started with head high sets every 15 minutes, only 2 or three waves in a set though, but there was only a hand full out over a 500m stretch of the reef.

First well overhead 6-8 wave set at around 7am, that kept up till I got out at 8am.

Got my pick of a wave from nearly every set, rides were short, 20-60m, but fun trying to beat the sections.

Should be bigger and better later.
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:31 pm

The Bommie, Peak and Outside Corner are all working now. Beautiful day, light offshore, not a drop of water out of place
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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:22 pm

Any Australians in the line up?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:47 am

10%
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:29 pm

Garie beach. Four foot plus thumpy ripbowl lefts up the north corner and some rights further down the beach. Pitching top to bottom, lots of energy in the swell. A bit unsettled but plenty of waves to pick off. Only three people out.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:23 pm

About the same at Bronte, Tama and Bondi with about the same number out. Not me if you were asking.
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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:36 pm

Yeh, surfed at DY today. The point was packed so walked up to mid beach and paddled out. Only 2 young fellas out and that was it. There were some pretty decent raw 6ft sets coming through the middle at times with punchy lips. It was shifty and closing out in places. Water moving about and such,

The two young guys went in pretty much straight away. So I found myself out there in the middle of this without anyone around. For me it’s pretty rare, you always have a few surfers out in Sydney. I won’t lie a few “what if” scenarios went through my head. I’m over 50, average ability, shark maybe etc.

What it did do is sharpen my focus, I can’t remember the last time I’d looked at the horizon for large sets, I usually just notice people paddling. My duck diving is lazy, wasn’t today. F@ck I was on high alert for about 30 minutes. Got a few waves, rag dolled and settled down.

It wasn’t the surf that made me slightly anxious for a time, it was being in it alone. No one else paddled out. Spun me out for a while.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:51 pm

i love those days. big and alone.

so much so, i find it that hard to get, in the last month i've chosen the skatepark over the ocean and so far haven't regretted it once.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:52 pm

Gator^
Beanpole wrote:
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I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:54 pm

Big and alone are definitely two words I wouldnt associate with the Gold Coast.
Put your big boy pants on
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:55 pm

Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Wed Sep 11, 2019 3:44 pm

You mean 3-6ft right? 😀
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Wed Sep 11, 2019 3:48 pm

I blew it this morning too. Had a window of an hour or so, dead high tide. Looked. Looked again at another spot. Na. Headies not quite east enough. Hmm I'll go further towards Gong. Na.

Should've gone out at the first place. Fcuk!!

Tomorrow, is this swell gonna stick around? Or is it doing the night time sayonara?
Sniff wrote:
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I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:37 pm

Drailed wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:55 pm
Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.
Measured from the front or from the back? And is this 15-20 foot Iggy scale?

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:44 pm

channels wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:37 pm
Drailed wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:55 pm
Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.
Measured from the front or from the back? And is this 15-20 foot Iggy scale?
Talking about how deep it was you cretin.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:49 pm

Waves were breaking in 15-20 foot of water?

OK.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:21 pm

Hit the bottom 15+ Feet deep?
Musta been dark down there.

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swvic
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:30 pm

If I'm right, a wave will break in depths 1.5 X height. 5 ft Iggy will therefore break at 15 ft depth. Loofy's da man

Caveat is that would be a gentle burger so maybe he's not da man
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