Where did you surf today ?

[buddy]

I saw about 5 sets hit that bank with no one sitting on it. Big crowd to the left and right and with a group of 6 guys about to paddle out as a group. That wouldn’t last long so I went to another spot instead.
Just the 3 of us for most of the sesh.

[steve shearer]

September sessions.

knee feels fine this morning.

Might sit it out today Loof, got a lot on and looks like a few fun swells in the coming week.

[Hatchnam]

That's okay. He's the real deal not a little try hard core guy.

I thought everyone that surfed overhead waves (which is most people, not a tiny minority like your pickled brain thinks) is a try hard core in your books.

[Beanpole]

Sure, Hatchie......sure most surfers surf overhead waves. Just waiting for you to qualify that statement. The try hard bit is the minority that thinks it's their duty to enforce dumb wave measurement systems.

So just continuing on my deconstruction of this system....it's like having a speedo on your car that goes up to 600 klm per hour but makes it impossible to work out if you're going 40 or 60 km per hour.

[Cranked]

At my local. Nice even overhead lines stretching out to sea, just about dead calm, misty. Nearly an hour after first light, no one out, two surfers walking slowly across the reef.

[Trev]

I didn't surf.
Hardly a ripple on Lake Ontario.

[Beanpole]

What's your tips for the weather in Canada in about three weeks time, Trev?

[Nick Carroll]

when did you last think that Nick, or are your best days all behind you now?

Oh yeah I can barely stand up these days what with the withering of muscles caused by too much endurance training

But seriously I think I have posted enough about hard I fcuken rip on a day in day out basis. I’m gonna save up my stories about my own ripping for days when I go to the fcuken stratosphere.

[Nick Carroll]

Btw soon I will be in So CA and I will test the Apple Watch/Surfline custom video link at Lowers. Then you cnuts will be forced to watch just how fcuking good I really am.

[steve shearer]

can't hardly wait.

No, but it is a fair question.
At 60, do you still feel those sensations of "yep, thats better than I've ever done" or is the sensation one of declining powers?

[Nick Carroll]

Well I don't think we are very good judges of our own surfing on the whole, but what I feel in myself is pretty good, not as fast twitch or as strong as in the mid 30s but more efficient. Surfing feels really simple to me, I don't overthink shit generally and I don't over-surf which was often an issue for me.

I don't take the same kind of risks though, I think that limits further learning, but I am not sure what to expect from that anyway, like as if I am going to take a quantum leap with style or approach at my age, I am only gonna get little shifts and they won't be outwardly noticeable.

Sometimes I feel like near a peak, and some things do feel better than they ever have, I surely never imagined I'd be surfing the way I do at 60.

[Lucky Al]

Do you think you'll ever compete again, Nick? Could be pretty neat to win another national title a million years after your last one.

[Drailed]

Well that was fun, not as big and a bit straighter then I predicted but when the rip started running it created some rifling lefts.

[Trev]

What's your tips for the weather in Canada in about three weeks time, Trev?

Meh!
In 3 weeks we'll almost be ready to head home. In fact we will be home.
The days here are balmy, mid 20's and around 15 overnight. Spent the afternoon at this massive park along the edge of Lake Ontario. Labour Day Monday. Literally thousands there, no provided barbecues so people from all walks of life carry in their own.
Expect it slightly cooler in Halifax tomorrow. Hoping to be out of there before Dorian swings by.
Don t think it'll be much different back on the west coast. But I expect you'll find snow up in the Rockies by then.

[steve shearer]

Well I don't think we are very good judges of our own surfing on the whole, but what I feel in myself is pretty good, not as fast twitch or as strong as in the mid 30s but more efficient. Surfing feels really simple to me, I don't overthink shit generally and I don't over-surf which was often an issue for me.

I don't take the same kind of risks though, I think that limits further learning, but I am not sure what to expect from that anyway, like as if I am going to take a quantum leap with style or approach at my age, I am only gonna get little shifts and they won't be outwardly noticeable.

Sometimes I feel like near a peak, and some things do feel better than they ever have, I surely never imagined I'd be surfing the way I do at 60.

I remember what you said about getting injured and taking risks and how that could derail the whole show; or words to that effect.

There really was no reason for me to try and run an upside down lip line floater on a barrelling close-out section at full speed; thats' just stoops.
I got really lucky the injury was only a warning bell and not a proper thing.

Getting a knee reconstruction over one turn is not worth it.

It is hard to know whether what feels so good is not merely some peculiar form of self delusion.
Not blowing my own trumpet but after riding that wave that felt like a high point of performance backhand surfing for me, a guy did paddle up to me and tell me how good it was.

it doesn't matter!

but it does feel like with the training and the diet and the boards it's going better than it ever has.

[Nick Carroll]

Do you think you'll ever compete again, Nick? Could be pretty neat to win another national title a million years after your last one.

fcuk mate been there done that.

I wanna win an Australian ironman title. That's better competition than surfing. Close but no cigar so far.

[Nick Carroll]

but it does feel like with the training and the diet and the boards it's going better than it ever has.

I do think you get more tuned into the feelings of surfing with time for sure. That is a reward in itself.

Also I think there is an advantage to not being so brilliant at it when you're young. I was a pretty full throttle surfer as a young man but my surfing was littered with technical deficiencies, and the surfboards were shit by comparison with what we can ride today. So there has always been a lot of room for improvement in my surfing, I'm pretty sure that's true for most of us, and if you keep tuning yourself, finding ways forward, you can keep getting better in some areas for a v long time.

[Cranked]

Consistent head high waves and frequent overhead sets, light offshore.

I've finally started finding a place in the lineup again and getting some decent waves. Its been a long drought since my bike accident in mid March.

Afternoon session is next. It's forecast to be much bigger Wed and Thurs.