Where did you surf today ?

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Jun 05, 2019 9:41 pm

I've got a pretty shit memory, but one thing that is clear, especially the feeling, is the day of my mum's funeral. After the service, there was a wake back at our house. I had only just turned eighteen and didn't understand why the adults were standing around, drinking and laughing. So, I quietly snuck off and went down to Long Reef. It was mid-winter. The surf was small, maybe 2-3 foot with a moderate SW blowing. No one was out at No Man's and I had it to myself for a couple of hours. I remember the colour and texture of the water, the warmth of the sun and the chill of the air, the spray off the back of the waves, even the bittersweet feeling of surfing when everyone else was at school. It was weird and beautiful and sad and I was alone, but not lonely. I'm glad I had surfing to turn to that day.

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Jun 05, 2019 9:44 pm

Grief is a hell of a journey.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:14 pm

ajohnsen wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 9:41 pm
I've got a pretty shit memory, but one thing that is clear, especially the feeling, is the day of my mum's funeral. After the service, there was a wake back at our house. I had only just turned eighteen and didn't understand why the adults were standing around, drinking and laughing. So, I quietly snuck off and went down to Long Reef. It was mid-winter. The surf was small, maybe 2-3 foot with a moderate SW blowing. No one was out at No Man's and I had it to myself for a couple of hours. I remember the colour and texture of the water, the warmth of the sun and the chill of the air, the spray off the back of the waves, even the bittersweet feeling of surfing when everyone else was at school. It was weird and beautiful and sad and I was alone, but not lonely. I'm glad I had surfing to turn to that day.
I had the same thing when my Dad died. I was 17. Hung around home for 2 or 3 days then asked Mum if I could go for a surf. She thought it was a good idea. I surfed about three hours in beautiful Greenmount waves. A shattering time when you've just finished school and it seems like your whole world has disintegrated.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:22 pm

I can’t believe any of you cnuts don’t prefer surfing alone
My solo sessions at Bondi are all time
Erase.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:24 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:22 pm
I can’t believe any of you cnuts don’t prefer surfing alone
My solo sessions at Bondi are all time
3-)
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:41 pm

Anybody heard anything from Braithy?
Hope he's doing ok.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:59 pm

I had email with him recently. He's doing it tough, but okay.

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Thu Jun 06, 2019 3:11 am

Good to hear. There's comfort in knowing he always has a place to stay in Nick's backyard.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:48 am

fcuk! he might be out there now

(checks)

nah all clear. Unless he's in the scary shed.

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:51 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:02 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:29 pm
On the other hand......Nick, unlike everyone else on here, rarely paddles out without knowing someone. Guess it's a novelty.
It’s not. I’ve had many surfs like today, like bombing 6-10’ plus days here in Sydney by myself. This was the first time I experienced the feeling of it being a weird, feral thing to do.
Maybe you are starting to feel your age?

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:58 am

Man I started feeling my age a while back. This was different. Ah well it's passed now.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:47 am

4-5 foot elouera. Rip bowl left and right peak. Holding up nicely with plenty of turns to be had. Surfed the 6”2 lost short round. Really digging that board.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:49 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:58 am
Man I started feeling my age a while back. This was different. Ah well it's passed now.
Maybe the intensity of the surf matched the intense emotions you've described in recent weeks. A similar feeling of being surrounded by something powerful, but a greater sense of control or comfort or just ability to cope with with the physical and tangible than the emotional.

I've had days like that, where I've needed to be out in a storm, or do something dangerous, just to match where I was mentally.
My post about going paddling in a cyclone was one of those days.
Braithy also alluded to it.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am

fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:09 pm

That's the spirit
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:11 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am
fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"
Don’t forget to pm Loofy.

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:19 pm

:lol:

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:20 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am
fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"
you must have been involved in the mid-80s tracks publication "the book of big surf", nick? i think kirk wilcox might have been the editor. i seem to recall a story about surfing at newport in it, possibly by mike newling or even by you?

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