Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm

Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:44 pm

Maybe I am beginning to see some things differently in the wake of my dad's death. I used to kid myself that he wanted to hear about our surfing adventures, and he always seemed to enjoy the stories.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:57 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
PM me next time Bruddah, I will paddle out with you.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:53 pm

I imagine they were all off being decent human beings.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm

oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.

thats what we do.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm

Lucky Al wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!
At 1pm on a Wednesday? Working i guess.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:41 pm

whenever i visit dad (usually mid-winter) and the point's good it's busy from dawn to dusk. does newport have fewer surfers than northern suburbs of wollongong?

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:45 pm

I could have surfed, but I’m just a softcock.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.

thats what we do.
Look steve. I’m just thinking about it for chrissakes.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm

I’m responding to a feeling I had.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavethequeen » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:56 pm

Well I, for one, am enjoying the bittersweet lyricism and reflection that has crept into Nick's writing over the past couple of weeks

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:57 pm

Everyone was at Manly probably.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:58 pm

Well god save forget that and do me a favour and respond with some sort of personal thought or feeling about what I posted about above.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:59 pm

Well, the otherness of surfing is negated by comps and romanticised by the companies....but it still floats out there.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:01 pm

Like I crave an actual communication about it. Aside from poor loofy trying to be funny or shearer going the niggle.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:03 pm

Sometimes when I surf alone I want someone to share it with, but other times I love it.
For some reason, I haven't really thought too hard about it, but I like surfing with mates up here on the north coast but in Vic I love surfing alone.

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