Where did you surf today ?

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Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:28 pm

Why didnt you get a go out Steve?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:30 pm

covering Maggie River Loof.

and I jinxed my neck a bit yesterday rocking off.
I went for the high risk/high reward option and ended up having to pancake through the rock garden under a set and got a bit crooked.

I could have had a quick go out on dark but the swell hadn't arrived so thought I would wait until manyana.

You?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:57 pm

Nah, woke up at 6 for the early but I couldnt get out of bed.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:59 pm

why not?

Are you injured?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:23 pm

It was absolutely pissing down, freezing cold and I feel the onset of a flu/cold. I surfed 2 hours yest so not too bothered.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:01 pm

not another one of these man flus?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:05 pm

Surfed in boardies and vest till the sun went down. No problems.
As soon as I stepped on to the beach on the way in I was thinking, 'it's fucking freezing!'

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:45 am

jeez, what a disappointing hoax.
wobbly rollers breaking parallel to the coast.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:08 am

Nothing holding it here.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:34 am

its just an overgrown messy windswell.

except not that overgrown.

I had low expectations but it's effortlessly limboed them.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:16 am

not down here it wasn't.

started getting a handle on the 9'8" CC, it's tricky! Everything about it is tricky except actually riding a wave on it.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:30 am

Like, is it tricky riding down the beach on your Dragstar with it under your arm?

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:39 am

Tricky getting the fins in the right way round, putting it into your X5 without dinging it??
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Wed Jun 05, 2019 2:09 pm

Protected NB corner this morning and not too crowded (and wow you notice how warm the water is compared to air temp).

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jun 05, 2019 3:18 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:34 am
its just an overgrown messy windswell.

except not that overgrown.

I had low expectations but it's effortlessly limboed them.
Did it get any better?
Small shark bite at the point too, legit?

buddy
Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jun 05, 2019 3:22 pm

Didn't see the other thread.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm

Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:44 pm

Maybe I am beginning to see some things differently in the wake of my dad's death. I used to kid myself that he wanted to hear about our surfing adventures, and he always seemed to enjoy the stories.

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