Where did you surf today ?
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- The Mighty Sunbird
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 23148
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
- Location: Pogo's
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Thanks for the pm ‘Boo. Been trying to reply all day but the kids are like some kind of time-sucking monsters, unstoppable in their insistent needs and wants. Will get back to you!
@Thud, oh yeah I’m aware of that. My couch is the Brown Death of backs, I usually lie on the floor etc. it’s more than that, but slouching is the worst thing you can do I reckon.
Legion, I think there’s a mobility/core combo issue- although playing Bridge might be good for my mind.
Physio is just too expensive for me unfortunately. I respect it, but can’t afford it. I’ve been lucky cos my step dad is a highly respected Osteopath- when pain has been acute, he has been a godsend- but he can only do so much, especially when I can’t help myself and go surfing even when back is still sore as fcuk.
Anyway, I’m on it. This aggression won’t stand, man.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
i was out on my son's softboard in the shorebreak this morning and a local kid came running shouting "can i have a go? can i have a go!" i went oh okay here you go and a head-high set came right when he got on it and pitched him straight into the sand. it was a full-on wipeout. for a moment i was afraid he was going to get upset or scared but no he came up laughing and asking for more.
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- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 69419
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Then you will also be pleased to know I paddled out into some mush at Bronte and had a thoroughly poor showing today.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 69419
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside. Floundered around in the wind chop paddling against the rip on the left. Back to the right. I hate the reef at Bronte.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
- marauding mullet
- Duke Status
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- Location: an upside down valiant
Re: Where did you surf today ?
No matter how many times I read this, I just cannot come to terms with it.
- The Mighty Sunbird
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 23148
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
- Location: Pogo's
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I noticed one on my board as I was about to paddle out.
I left it on the sand at the waters edge. A long walk from anywhere it would want to be.
I often wonder what happened to that huntsman.
I left it on the sand at the waters edge. A long walk from anywhere it would want to be.
I often wonder what happened to that huntsman.
Erase.
- The Mighty Sunbird
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 23148
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
- Location: Pogo's
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I've consulted with my medical team - the Brazillian lady next door, a surfing mate and the matriarch of the clan where I'm staying - and the verdict is that I can resume surfing tomorrow!
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
And what a day to start: double overhead, perfect swell direction, light offshores and no crowds (WAM 4.1 now forecasts crowd size)
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ? I
In the water at first light today. One other guy out.
Magnificent sunrise over the cliffs, inky black clouds, yellow orange light, light rain falling.
A big turtle popped up between us and looked us over, a huge ray breached, looking like Dracula or a giant bat.
I paddled in after nearly an hour. No waves ridden - great morning
Magnificent sunrise over the cliffs, inky black clouds, yellow orange light, light rain falling.
A big turtle popped up between us and looked us over, a huge ray breached, looking like Dracula or a giant bat.
I paddled in after nearly an hour. No waves ridden - great morning
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Why no waves ridden?? Flat?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
About waist high, but it needs an offshore and bigger swell to work.
When there's no one out you don't have where people are sitting to gauge the swell size.
When there's no one out you don't have where people are sitting to gauge the swell size.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
If only there was some sort of measurement of wave energy you could use as a gauge.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I love it when I pull up to check the surf and it's knee high and the pack is 300m further out from where the waves are breaking waiting patiently
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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