Where did you surf today ?

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:11 am

i get the feeling your situation is the result of my situation.

no banks here to speak of, everyone heads south.
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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:25 am

A bank, a bank, my tiny suburban plot of over-priced land for a bank.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am

It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am

here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:12 am

ajohnsen wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:25 am
A bank, a bank, my tiny suburban plot of over-priced land for a bank.
NAB? ANZ?
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swvic
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:13 am

I've seen that film, but will watch it again. Part of me romanticised a life like that, but in reality it wouldn't be something I could ever sustain

'spose he'll be sadly missed around the area
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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

I must admit I've never thought of that but makes perfect sense.
The kid in my story was only about 10 or 12 and panicking so it's lucky we noticed him.
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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.
Yeah. That's about what I'd reckon. Me now. I'm really old. :(
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

I got caught badly at south end of Whale Beach as a grommet. From memory, I got sucked under the ledge when my leggie got caught but a surge pulled me out and dumped me on the shelf. Of course, as a grom, I could've been talking the whole thing up.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:29 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I think: there but for the Grace of God, etc etc

Still, he seemed to do no harm.

and RIP to Bob.
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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:44 pm

Aj, I’ve got a few down here! Just make the Deed for the house out to Mrs Wyre for tax purposes. Seriously, drive down at 5am, you’ll be pulling in at 6, back in time for the morning debrief at 9.25.

Good advice Nick, sorry to hear the news. That situation must be up there for most common way to drown surfing?
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

ctd
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ctd » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:22 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
I was also taught to have the strap done up so you release it by pulling inwards (ie if on your right leg, pull towards your left). Because this means you can use either arm to undo (can’t pull outwards using your opposite arm ie if on right ankle, can’t pull to the right with your left arm). Also so you always know which way to pull if you are panicking

But never had to put it to the test so - any opinions?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:35 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
Thanks again Nick. That's exactly the mistake I made. You told me that when I reported here a while ago that I was under for 3 waves with a snagged leggie at Voodoo and only lived to tell the tale because my leggie broke. I make sure I tell other people
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Yuke Hunt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Yuke Hunt » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:03 pm

Here's a link to short film, HOME (about Bob) ...

https://vimeo.com/229802433
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.

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