Where did you surf today ?

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:08 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:56 am
Got slapped fairly hard in the trough
You been hanging out with Simon?
Erase.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:18 pm

No i tend to avoid south east Queensland as much as I can these days.
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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:49 pm

Nice little swell getting in to my local this arvo.
Got about 10 waves in a bit over an hour and got the hell out of there at 3, leaving it to all the schoolies and teacher.
Just about a dozen of us. By the time I drove away at 3.20, there were about 30 and more coming.
Hope for an early tomorrow.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:57 am

would love a low tide bank right about now.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:02 am

no shortage of them here but crowds are at Biblical proportions.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:11 am

i get the feeling your situation is the result of my situation.

no banks here to speak of, everyone heads south.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:25 am

A bank, a bank, my tiny suburban plot of over-priced land for a bank.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am

It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am

here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:12 am

ajohnsen wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:25 am
A bank, a bank, my tiny suburban plot of over-priced land for a bank.
NAB? ANZ?
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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swvic
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:13 am

I've seen that film, but will watch it again. Part of me romanticised a life like that, but in reality it wouldn't be something I could ever sustain

'spose he'll be sadly missed around the area
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

I must admit I've never thought of that but makes perfect sense.
The kid in my story was only about 10 or 12 and panicking so it's lucky we noticed him.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.
Yeah. That's about what I'd reckon. Me now. I'm really old. :(
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

I got caught badly at south end of Whale Beach as a grommet. From memory, I got sucked under the ledge when my leggie got caught but a surge pulled me out and dumped me on the shelf. Of course, as a grom, I could've been talking the whole thing up.

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