Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
After nearly three weeks of good surf the swell has been dropping. Hopefully it has reached its nadir today.
Expecting a continuation of head high at the small wave spots, I went out before dawn for a walk up the coast. Got nothing. Looking on the bright side though, I do need a rest.
Expecting a continuation of head high at the small wave spots, I went out before dawn for a walk up the coast. Got nothing. Looking on the bright side though, I do need a rest.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Knocked a fin out of my board on a rock yesterday at low tide. Luckily no damage to the box or surrounds, so just swapped one over from another board.
I guess thats sort of and advantage of FCS2. I think?
I guess thats sort of and advantage of FCS2. I think?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
So i surfed - and it was average - the waves and my gimpy arm. Could paddle, but without any strength. And then the pop up. Wow. It was like learning to surf again. Got roasted by some turd who watched me pitch on a set wave. I told him i'd been out of the water ten weeks and i hoped it would happen to him and all his mates. He laughed. Mystics is so unforgiving. No significant pain, except for one where i dug deep on a paddle and my arm bent properly - bicep tendonitis cured; but boy, it was a stinger.
Going to have another go tomorrow. Think i'll keep my clothes on.
Going to have another go tomorrow. Think i'll keep my clothes on.
Hatchnam wrote:
Filthy little hipster.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Mystics is the place to get to pitched that’s for sure. No room for
error.
Surfed greenhills. Long period swell lines with lotsa shutdowns but still a few shouldering peaks in the mix if you got in position when the sets came through. Surfed a chunky old 6”11 battle-axe pintail. Early roll in and straight down the line.
picture upload sites
error.
Surfed greenhills. Long period swell lines with lotsa shutdowns but still a few shouldering peaks in the mix if you got in position when the sets came through. Surfed a chunky old 6”11 battle-axe pintail. Early roll in and straight down the line.
picture upload sites
- The Mighty Sunbird
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
It goes like a bullet down the line in big walled up groundswells. A few years ago I surfed Bells beach at double overhead on that thing. It was like a religious experience. Minimal input on my part. Board felt like it was surfing itself.
- black duck
- Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Early afternoon down the coast, one of the better sets
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I'd like to see a pic of it upside down to get a sense of the rocker. Looks almost non existent from the top but a lot of those old boards hid rocker with heaps of paddle friendly foam.Hatchnam wrote: ↑Sat May 19, 2018 5:14 pmMystics is the place to get to pitched that’s for sure. No room for
error.
Surfed greenhills. Long period swell lines with lotsa shutdowns but still a few shouldering peaks in the mix if you got in position when the sets came through. Surfed a chunky old 6”11 battle-axe pintail. Early roll in and straight down the line.
picture upload sites
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yep, typical user friendly old style. Before they discovered the benefits of tail rocker , but plenty of foam where it can do a lot of good. Out paddles any short board out there.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Limited turn angles, very stripped back and basic type of surfing. But it does what it does well. That is, gets in early and goes like a bullet straight down the line. Still has a lot of bite and sensitivity in the tail end, for cutting down/back on and adjusting your line.
Guessing it’s circa ‘75 ? Or perhaps earlier?
Guessing it’s circa ‘75 ? Or perhaps earlier?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Could be but no legrope deck plugs in 75. May have been added later.
My rough guess is early/ mid eighties. It looks to be in good nick.
My rough guess is early/ mid eighties. It looks to be in good nick.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
that is the wonkiest horizon line i've ever seen. please be better mate, one day we want to show all this to our kids and tell them how we ruled the interwebs with an iron fist, when Don made all our dreams here pozible.
but with those horizon lines it's going to be a hard sell.
Last edited by crabmeat thompson on Sun May 20, 2018 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- black duck
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Your'e right CT, it's disgraceful. When i use a phone, all photographic discipline flies away.
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
aren't you an architect BD?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- black duck
- Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
yes, that's why it's so disgraceful. Straight lines are my business.
Fcuk the island was good today. Size and angle were just right.
Fcuk the island was good today. Size and angle were just right.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
That comment on the island brings back fond memories for me duck.
The oceans gone very calm here.
The oceans gone very calm here.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
i snuck into the comp zone this arvo and jagged a few before a fierce cramp sent me cowering in.
shot with trusty 4 yr old boomer favourite, iphone5c.
no excuse bdblack duck wrote: ↑Sun May 20, 2018 4:31 pm
Your'e right CT, it's disgraceful. When i use a phone, all photographic discipline flies away.
shot with trusty 4 yr old boomer favourite, iphone5c.
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