Just general surfing stuff
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- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
best 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.
that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.
i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.
last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.
it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.
i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.
last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.
it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Drugs have claimed so many people in these parts.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I haven't been to the Gold Coast since the mid eighties. I've heard different stories about it. Like it has a menacing feel when you are out after 11pm. But like said I don't know and that sounds like bollocks.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
How is this, this would have been terrifying. But he kept his cool, surprised he had the energy to talk afterwards. https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... cks-nazare
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I had a 6’9 black beauty for a couple of years. Snapped it in half at six foot voodoo. Got caught out by a set paddling back out after take a right (there’s no channel if you go right at voodoo).crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:01 ambest 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.
that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.
i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.
last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.
it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
Still miss that board. Amongst the many sessions on it down here, also had an insane go out on it at head and half high south straddie. Countless barrels. Such an easy board to ride. So smooth. That rocker, the vee bottom, that hard rail running full length. Such a distinct planshape. I’m yet to see or surf any other step up board that compares to it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
The old stock black beauties weren't as high volume as they are now were they?Hatchnam wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:32 pmI had a 6’9 black beauty for a couple of years. Snapped it in half at six foot voodoo. Got caught out by a set paddling back out after take a right (there’s no channel if you go right at voodoo).crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:01 ambest 'big' wave board for around here ever, the 6'9" black beauty.
that was my cadillac at burleigh and currumbin for years. i still remember one big barrel at burleigh on it. it threw so wide a mini bus could have fit in it.
i remember paddling back out to a mate and my hands were shaking, i thought i was about to overdose on adrenalin. and we just looked at one another and he said, "who needs to take drugs when you can do that." he was an ex speed addict who got into surfing as an adult. from such a hardcore drug and skate background he picked up surfing in months, and was charging some of the heaviest water around here has to offer.
last i heard his wife left him and took the kids with her because he found his way onto the meth program. the irony was he got back on the gear by hocking the two or three boards i gave him over the years. one of them was the 6'9" black beauty.
it'd be at some nerang/ southport cashies i'd imagine.
Still miss that board. Amongst the many sessions on it down here, also had an insane go out on it at head and half high south straddie. Countless barrels. Such an easy board to ride. So smooth. That rocker, the vee bottom, that hard rail running full length. Such a distinct planshape. I’m yet to see or surf any other step up board that compares to it.
The stock dims are 20 1/4, 2 7/8
Seems real beefy.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
It was beefy. So was I then at 88kg. Now I’d be looking for the stock 6’6
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45901
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Exactly, the new ones are heaps more high volume.
I hate that about current board models/volume. They beef them up so quickly.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
10 years ago you'd call it a mini mal.
- PeepeelaPew
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:21 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
You gotta stay small guys, preferably under 30l.
How the fcuk else am I going to get any waves?
How the fcuk else am I going to get any waves?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
The rush to smaller boards has definitely been one of the best things to happen over the last 10 years.
Really, its the only way to establish your credentials as a hard core surfer.
Really, its the only way to establish your credentials as a hard core surfer.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
"that's it for me this Nazare season, think I might go look at some castles"Rustt wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:20 pmHow is this, this would have been terrifying. But he kept his cool, surprised he had the energy to talk afterwards. https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... cks-nazare
lol.
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