Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:26 pm

Whooo the swell just totally re-ignited down here this arvo, went from a burbly 6' to way bigger, a bit more east angle

Got some legit 10-12' waves on a bombie reef riding a slim 8'6". Wooshh!

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:11 pm

fcuk, that mean it's gunna be on here in the morning.

lot of spent arms up on the Point this arvo.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm

Big swing in swell direction.

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black duck
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by black duck » Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:34 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm
Big swing in swell direction.
which is weird given the consistency of the fetch direction for the most part of this low. Maybe bathymetry with the longer period is swinging it in. Happens down the coast quite often, strong south swells turn s/e and sometimes easterly when the period cranks up. Offshore reefs twist them i think. Could also be something completely different that the charts aren't picking up. Swell signatures are weird.
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Wed Aug 01, 2018 3:20 pm
You foaming spangoloids need to chill before you all do wetties on the carpet

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:13 am

ahhh fcuk kinda fizzled this morning

I knew it was going to but still always experience that sense of letdown.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:24 am

black duck wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:34 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm
Big swing in swell direction.
which is weird given the consistency of the fetch direction for the most part of this low. Maybe bathymetry with the longer period is swinging it in. Happens down the coast quite often, strong south swells turn s/e and sometimes easterly when the period cranks up. Offshore reefs twist them i think. Could also be something completely different that the charts aren't picking up. Swell signatures are weird.
Ah it wasn't that refraction thing, there was still plenty of SE bump going on

You can have multiple fetches in a low, winds pulsing from different angles and forming a range of swells. I would think this was off some 12-hr burst of strong easterly winds a bit closer to the centre of the low.

Tasman lows are so close to us, we really feel all their aspects.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:04 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:26 pm
Whooo the swell just totally re-ignited down here this arvo, went from a burbly 6' to way bigger, a bit more east angle

Got some legit 10-12' waves on a bombie reef riding a slim 8'6". Wooshh!
Was it clean and orderly or a sketchy washing machine?

I’ve been waiting for the opportunity to have a dig at wedding cake but when it’s big, it’s almost always breaking like a blustery horror show shifting all over the shop
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:25 am

And swell is gone where I was on the high tide......so now have to wait for the real autumn.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 12:08 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:04 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:26 pm
Whooo the swell just totally re-ignited down here this arvo, went from a burbly 6' to way bigger, a bit more east angle

Got some legit 10-12' waves on a bombie reef riding a slim 8'6". Wooshh!
Was it clean and orderly or a sketchy washing machine?

I’ve been waiting for the opportunity to have a dig at wedding cake but when it’s big, it’s almost always breaking like a blustery horror show shifting all over the shop
Oh I'd give it 5/10 for organisation, 7/10 for overall wave muscle, and 8.5/10 for the Lurch Factor, ie the way a wave grows on takeoff

Most Sydney bombie reefs are similar, they draw from pretty deep water on to a shelving reef then drain off into deep water, with some headland reflection going on. They all have their little tricks. Of the ones I've watched and surfed, Queenscliff bombie is probably the most organised of 'em, the German is probably the best/most epic, Frenchman's off Newport potentially the biggest/most able to handle a swell over 20'. Avericks, between Avalon and Bilgola, might be the best and sketchiest of all but usually it just doesn't quite pull it off, needs a v big clean super south groundswell and anything else just turns to crap. There's many others of the kind, this city would be all time if it was 15-20' more often.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Jan 18, 2018 12:27 pm

Yeah. The whole deepwater Sydney bombie thing. It all seems very fickle. Not sure 5/10 for organisation at 12 foot would see me paddling out.

Once had a (daunting) dig out at German bank paddling about like a flailing Mong amongst some tow-in crew that had it wired (only got two waves).

And had an even more daunting dig at bare island bombie struggling to maintain position, having to contend with current running off either edge of the ledge, out to sea and back into the bay, with birds dive bombing all around me brrrrr-rrrr, freaky!
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 3:50 pm

hatchy all big waves are fickle and a bit disorganised, comes with the territory really. The more water, the more water, if you get my drift. Places like Waimea are hugely reverberative, everything's moving all the time. I guess that's part of the kick, relaxing in all the movement, holding position for the right one.

Slobadan Madicubich
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Slobadan Madicubich » Thu Jan 18, 2018 6:47 pm

So much water movement seems random untill you learn the different indicators it gives

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu Jan 18, 2018 6:55 pm

.....and in more mortal surfing Manly was fairly average today but just occasionally these rights lined up and rolled from nearly the Corso to up near Nth Steyne barreling all the way. Dickhead Brazilian put three finchops in my board when he took off on a dredging close out. Fcuk it.
Bronte was big and blustery. Bondi had reforming rights if anyone wanted some.

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jimmy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by jimmy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:20 pm

And we had 4ft perfect point surf up here. Take your pick from Cooly to Burleigh. All were pleasant. The big thing I don’t miss about Bondi is having to travel when there are waves.

Sucked in.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:51 pm

Yep, I was looking at jumping on a plane actually but decided we would just drive down the coast and see what pops up over the next few days.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:25 pm

WTF is it with that drone rescue in Lennox?
I saw the footage and they were already in the impact zone. How hard is it to just let the waves wash you in?

Took the twinny out at Lennox point. Probably not the best choice as it was 3-5ft+ with plenty of push but I really wanted to try it. First surf on a twinny I think.
Couldn't get a wave for the first half hour and my plan to get the reforms from a qtr down the point had turned to shit. Ended up slowly paddling up to the deepest part of the point and found myself in position for a solid 5ft set. Had to go. The board held well on take off and I stayed low, bottom turn was good but then I had so much speed and no idea how to wash it off. Can't remember what I did after that but it was something kooky and I skidded out.

Slowly started to work some things out but I was really wanting a thruster, or a single because the waves were good. I don't want to see footage of that surf, it will be ugly :) .

Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:49 pm

drone surf (evidently a world first..............whatever that means).

http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/world-first-a ... 0kg9m.html

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:04 pm

Yeh twins in power surf. Unless you're MR, thoughts?
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