Where did you surf today ?

[BA]

Couple of spots on the NB's were doing the same. Bugger all people about.

[Over55yrs]

NB's Tuesday and today. The run of swell just keeps giving and pretty good fun out there (but crowds although lots of them really don't know what they are doing, apart from getting in the way).

[Beanpole]

Went for a late dip..plenty of swell. Plenty of close outs on the low tide.

[offshore1]

NB's Tuesday and today. The run of swell just keeps giving and pretty good fun out there (but crowds although lots of them really don't know what they are doing, apart from getting in the way).

Any of them riding 7S' s and sporting enormous codpieces?

[The Mighty Sunbird]

[Hatchnam]

Nulla beachies chest to head high plus. Dead south swell and long period = mostly shutting down but the smaller ones in between sets had some makeable ones with a wall and shoulder.
Surfed the 6’4 single. Managed to get a nice little barrel, though the whole wave shut down just after I came out.

[Cranked]

Glassy conditions nearly all the time now. Hottest time of year. Swell is small, but still overhead on the exposed breaks

[channels]

Nulla beachies chest to head high plus. Dead south swell and long period = mostly shutting down but the smaller ones in between sets had some makeable ones with a wall and shoulder.
Surfed the 6’4 single. Managed to get a nice little barrel, though the whole wave shut down just after I came out.

Same at Longie. DY closed for a clubbie event. Longie mostly closeouts with the occasional smaller runner.

[Hatchnam]

Too much period in the swell. Was considering a certain south facing reef but the west wind always ruffles it and makes the take off zone shifty and sketchy. So closeout beachies it was.

[BA]

Nulla beachies chest to head high plus. Dead south swell and long period = mostly shutting down but the smaller ones in between sets had some makeable ones with a wall and shoulder.
Surfed the 6’4 single. Managed to get a nice little barrel, though the whole wave shut down just after I came out.

Same at Longie. DY closed for a clubbie event. Longie mostly closeouts with the occasional smaller runner.

Looked super crowded. Actually everywhere looked super crowded.

[Beanpole]

Went out at two against my better judgement. Still worse than expected.

[Cranked]

Glorious day. Offshores, brilliant sunshine, nice overhead swell, no crowds. Some push from the incoming tide put it well up for an hour.

I picked off half a dozen solid waves, 200m, dropping in was exhilarating, easy 12' of face, stayed high mostly looking for the fastest line.

10 of us spread over about a k, 3 hour session, plus a 1 hour dawnie. Great way to end the season.

[channels]

Rip bowl at DY. Looked like river rapids paddling out but only one other guy on the peak and a heap of waves.

I hate posting after Cranked's indo updates

[Cranked]

Haha. I've been reminiscing about yesterday. The first one I pulled back on, just fcuking go I yelled at myself, so next one I did.

Awesome long drop, a guy further down was screaming something, I turned mid face and had a huge wall for 50m.

Rode it for 150m, the face continually warping and twisting, setting problem after problem, by then it was getting bigger, and looking like a 50m section was going to close out as it moved into the unknown realm of the big, shallow reef in the middle of Bingin bay (that I've never seen anyone ride).

This section completely did me over last week on a much smaller swell. It was straighten out and die it seemed, but I managed to exit over the top.

Repeat four more times in the next hour. After that I waited another hour after but nothing that big came through again.

[Cranked]

Yesterday had weather, lots of it.

It rained heavily during the night. Going down the gangs and back roads everything was wet and dripping, fecund with life.

The heavy rain had strewn colourful patches of flowers over the roads and it was a dank foetid morning of the earth

From the cliffs the ocean was grey, the sky was all sorts of threatening shades of grey to nearly black with lightening flashes on the horizon.

Fcuking great day to be alive, it was still warm: the air was warm with a light offshore breeze, the water was warm, and it was an oily glass.

Paddled out, but didn't get a wave and came in after an hour.

Thunder storms with extravagant lighting came and went all day. Surfed late under black roiling clouds and lightning, still glass, got one excellent wave.

Then it really started to rain as I rode home. Sat on the veranda of my room and it was like reliving the battle of the Somme with near continuous earth shattering explosions of thunder and eye searing flashes of lightning. The water was a foot deep in my garden, and the driveway was a fast flowing creek.

[crabmeat thompson]

did the best backhand turn i've done in about 15 years on a fun little walling beachie today.

new board goes unreal on the rails.

[alakaboo]

Pics.

[crabmeat thompson]

Pics.

of the board? or the turn? for the turn, you'll have to wait for my clip to drop. haha

the board is a stock Haydenshapes Love Buzz. 5'10" x 2 3/8 x 2 1/2

it's so dreamy to turn and go fast on.