Kelly's wave.

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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by channels » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:14 pm

Can someone watching say "Back off Warchild!" If it gets a bit too vigorous?

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Lucky Al
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:38 pm

steve, i know you probably just want to defuse the situation and have a nice chat on the porch with greg about man and nature, but could you possibly fit in a high-speed car/bus chase in between the lennox head carpark and your joint?

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No Pants Lance
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by No Pants Lance » Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:54 pm

oldman invokes Baudrillard :roll: ... soul surfing and the natural divide...taking a few sets on the head...

maybe i've missed something here, but what's the beef with wave pools? what? the fiscal imperatives?
so they're the pornhub of the local beachie!

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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by batoes » Wed Sep 06, 2017 5:44 am

No Pants Lance wrote:
Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:54 pm
oldman invokes Baudrillard :roll: ... soul surfing and the natural divide...taking a few sets on the head...

maybe i've missed something here, but what's the beef with wave pools? what? the fiscal imperatives?
so they're the pornhub of the local beachie!
I thought that bringing in a post-structuralist theorist was doing the argument some good. Certainly made me think again. If many of the elements that make surfing - surfing, are removed - the unpredictability of a wave; its size, length, power, which way it breaks, the potential of being eaten by a large fish, the search for waves, the navigation of implied rules from break to break etc - then what is left(pun)? A perfect, but repetitive wave. It's something that we all want, but many also want all the other things that come with surfing, too. Think of the iconic film, The Endless Summer, finishing at a wave pool or to get even more post-structural, starting there.

An interesting question might be, is it still surfing? Or what does it mean to a generation of surfers who grow up there. Who will be able to mechanically tear that wave apart in less than year (when it takes a beach surfer years to become competent) because surfing the exact same wave day in and out would hone their skills to a razor sharp edge. Their boards will never vary - there really wouldn't be a need for a quiver; they can go thinner because they don't have to paddle anywhere, if they don't want to. They will likely never go through the horror of duck-diving twelve waves in a row and scream at the wave gods to STOP! That would actually be awesome.

I've tried to find a similar sport to compare with; it is maybe similar to skaters who stay in the same park their whole lives, but even they have the benefit of different objects and runs etc. Maybe the same half-pipe?

I'm not currently against it. I will need to try it before i decide either way, but I find the debate really interesting and i'm definitely considering the impact it will have on surfing.
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Cranked
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:39 am

I'm not against it per se, but what I am against is anything that popularises surfing as the overwhelming problem with surfing in most places is the crowds.

As I've said elsewhere if one wave pool works they all will work and the popularity of surfing could increase by an order of magnitude.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by crabmeat thompson » Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:22 am

pools are about the sterilisation of surfing. about the human want to control parameters to meet an approved outcome.


replay in you mind right now, a memorable surf session. I'm doing it. it was a hard-to-get-to sand bottomed point. The swell angle to get in there can only come from an angle tolerance of about 25-30º ... for any swell working within that window, to then get a wind from the totally opposite direction to make the wave offshore means this place can go a year or more, without getting rideable conditions.

then there is the sand. All of it needs to be in place, which takes upwards of 8 months of calm conditions to build up. then all of that has to come together for the three hours around dead low tide.

when you know the sand is there, you watch the charts each week looking for an indicator in a certain quadrant of ocean. once you get the green light there, you start looking at local synoptics for winds. you might get 5 or 6 false alarms a year, where there's swell, but the winds are shit.

then you finally get a sniff it's going to be good. You pre-plan your work around it. load up the car and drive the nearly 5 hours from my house to get there, where you'll camp for a day or two and catch every last wave that's offered to you. you will see sharks there, that's a promise. and that's just another layer to scoring here.

mind bending long walls with tube sections and little crowd are your rewards for staying vigilante.


... or you can knock off work, head to the chlorinated wave pool that everyone has been pissing in all day and ride your mechanical, little repetitious wave with barely enough push to get your pulse racing while the insta-crowd hang off the sides snapping selfies.


australia with more surfable coastline than it has people to fill it. throw in our land prices and the dearest energy bills in the developed world, and wavepools are the ultimate boondoggle.


imo, wavepools won't add people to ocean lineups. pools won't help anyone's paddle fitness, which is the minimum requisite for ocean surfing. throw in rips, currents & sharks etc... there's probably more surfers who'll convert to pools, than vice-versa. and in that regard, i'm all for them.
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Beerfan » Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:21 am

Not to mention the satisfaction of being hammered constantly but holding on, gritting your teeth and persevering til you get a good one. Can't get that feeling in da pool. It's the good bit without all the effort, which takes the satisfaction away I spose. From a purely clinical point of view it could be seen as training, for your turns etc.
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by channels » Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:36 am

I equate the pool to an indoor snow run like this one in Auckland https://snowplanet.co.nz/

Useful for a tune up in May before the snow hits but pretty boring after the 1st 10 runs.

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No Pants Lance
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by No Pants Lance » Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:11 am

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:22 am
pools are about the sterilisation of surfing. about the human want to control parameters to meet an approved outcome.
just like what supermarkets did to the hunter gatherer eh.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Lucky Al » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:17 am

supermarkets did it to the corner store didn't they? hunters and gatherers was a bitter back i think.

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steve shearer
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:23 am

Agriculture screwed the hunter-gatherer.

worst wrong turning in human history.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Lucky Al
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Lucky Al » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:27 am

agriculture's alright! it gets a bad rap. the legrope was the worst turning.

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Cranked
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:35 am

Back to wave pools for a moment.

Without consequence there's no excitement, right? Fear not, to up the anti they could introduce random compulsory water waterboarding after a wipeout :-D-:
Last edited by Cranked on Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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steve shearer
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:36 am

You only say that because you're a vegan Al and you'd starve to death in 2 weeks as a hunter-gatherer.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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foamy
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by foamy » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:38 am

It was the wetsuit that ruined surfing and turned into the lameo activity for ponces that it is today.

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steve shearer
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:40 am

I haven't heard anyone use the word ponce in a sentence for an age Foamy.

It seems quaint.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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foamy
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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by foamy » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:42 am

Quaint is quaint.

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Re: Kelly's wave.

Post by channels » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:43 am

foamy wrote:
Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:38 am
It was the wetsuit that ruined surfing and turned into the lameo activity for ponces that it is today.
And legropes.

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