Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:03 pm

depends on the crowd for me.

if it's 20-30 guys at the Point I'm happy to sit in my spot and wait for my wave.

if its 500 at Snapper I'll probably shine it.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Rustt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:11 pm

Different world, I live in a place where non locals are referred to as outsiders, being a social misfit I feel quite comfortable :)

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:13 pm

with a banjo in hand?

You should book a gig for yourself at this surf camp Russt.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Rustt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:16 pm

Bit like that but it has its up side

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:19 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Feb 25, 2018 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:23 pm

Where I surf south of home there are around 20-30 people I regularly surf with. There's a sense of community and around 10 are good friends.

In Indonesia I tend to stay and surf in the one place for a decade at a time and end up with a pile of friends and acquaintances each time.

When I surfed in Sydney though I surfed lots of different places and there were too many surfers so there was no really regular contacts with a manageable number of people to encourage a community feel and allow friendships to develop.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:36 pm

Legion wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:19 pm
Kind of, 'boo. But it takes about ten years.

Hey, I met you through surfing.

Oh ...

<realises 'boo hates me/>
Luckily we didn't meet in the surf at Snapper.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:44 pm

alakaboo wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:45 pm
I reckon the adult learner quotient would be high at that event.

I find the surfing community/tribe thing a bit weird.
(Yes, I realise where I am posting.)
Perhaps because I am an adult learner myself, sort of.
I can see how it would be different if you grew up doing it with friends.

I've got a few friends I surf with, but still 80% of my surfing would be solo. Often in heinous crowds, but still essentially a solo pursuit.
And mostly I am pretty good friends with someone before I would surf with them, not the other way around.

Has anyone, as an adult, become close friends with someone they met in the surf?
Because I had a break from surfing of nearly 20 years, pretty well all my surf mates were met as adults and several of them have become close friends.
I don't like surfing in crowds but, like Steve, I have a circle of regulars with whom I share my local. A good group and a great part of the surfing experience.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:30 pm

Trev, did you see the clip Stu Nettle highlighted on Swellnet?
Surfabout 1974. Starts off with some very good Fairy Bower.
MP, PT, BK, Reno, Gerry Lopez, Nat Young, Ian Cairns, Mark Warren etc. Good stuff.

https://vimeo.com/204513295

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:44 pm

foamy wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:30 pm
Trev, did you see the clip Stu Nettle highlighted on Swellnet?
Surfabout 1974. Starts off with some very good Fairy Bower.
MP, PT, BK, Reno, Gerry Lopez, Nat Young, Ian Cairns, Mark Warren etc. Good stuff.

https://vimeo.com/204513295
Thanks.
I'll have a look.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Beerfan
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beerfan » Sat Aug 26, 2017 5:51 am

alakaboo wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:45 pm
I reckon the adult learner quotient would be high at that event.

I find the surfing community/tribe thing a bit weird.
(Yes, I realise where I am posting.)
Perhaps because I am an adult learner myself, sort of.
I can see how it would be different if you grew up doing it with friends.

I've got a few friends I surf with, but still 80% of my surfing would be solo. Often in heinous crowds, but still essentially a solo pursuit.
And mostly I am pretty good friends with someone before I would surf with them, not the other way around.

Has anyone, as an adult, become close friends with someone they met in the surf?
Or become friends with someone because they surf, and that's how they got introduced at a BBQ?
If someone says to me
'Oh, you and Phil both surf, you'll have heaps to talk about' I can pretty much guarantee Phil's going to be a bellend, just like everyone else there.

The way I snowboard is completely different, BTW, I love sharing a run with someone I know and have travelled great distances to ride with mates.
Guy I surf with regularly I only know from surfing the same spot. Never caught up with him other than standing at the beach or out in the water, though I know a lot about him and his life and vice versa.
we are the angry mob
We read the papers everyday
We like who we like, we hate who we hate
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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 6:39 am

I paddle behind pretty girls and perv at their pert and shapely bums. That's sharing the stoke.
ajohnsen wrote: My tertiary education has been a bit like a blind woman with sudden onset diarrhea in a bathroom accessories showroom.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Aug 26, 2017 6:50 am

alakaboo wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:45 pm


Has anyone, as an adult, become close friends with someone they met in the surf?
oh fcuk yeah. I didn't know any of the locals at Lowers before I started surfing there in 1991. By the time I moved away from CA in 1997 I was pretty much blood brothers with a lot of 'em. It's a red letter day for us when I show up for the early on a visit.

A lot of surfers also who I met while competing in juniors, we have all gone away and done our different things in the ensuing years, but pretty much all of 'em still rip, when we hear from each other it's like flicking a switch, bam. The surf experience is an instant connection.

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Sat Aug 26, 2017 7:18 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:50 pm
christ don't go to Trestles. It is the worst event on tour. soo deeply dispiriting. If one wrote a book about it one would call the book "Bros In The Dust"
Why? Is it spectator amenity?
Last edited by foamy on Sat Aug 26, 2017 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

Rustt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Sat Aug 26, 2017 7:51 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Sat Aug 26, 2017 6:50 am
alakaboo wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:45 pm


Has anyone, as an adult, become close friends with someone they met in the surf?
oh fcuk yeah. I didn't know any of the locals at Lowers before I started surfing there in 1991. By the time I moved away from CA in 1997 I was pretty much blood brothers with a lot of 'em. It's a red letter day for us when I show up for the early on a visit.

A lot of surfers also who I met while competing in juniors, we have all gone away and done our different things in the ensuing years, but pretty much all of 'em still rip, when we hear from each other it's like flicking a switch, bam. The surf experience is an instant connection.
Surfed that place in 85, just once. Was not the sort of wave that i would jump on a plane to surf and the 60+ surfers was a bit daunting but once i got my head around it, it was a standout surf from a few years of surfing/traveling.

I'm greatest mates with some of the biggest rivals I had in the surf when I was young, we eventually realized we were similar. Took a long time though. :lol:

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:16 am

foamy wrote:
Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:30 pm
Trev, did you see the clip Stu Nettle highlighted on Swellnet?
Surfabout 1974. Starts off with some very good Fairy Bower.
MP, PT, BK, Reno, Gerry Lopez, Nat Young, Ian Cairns, Mark Warren etc. Good stuff.

https://vimeo.com/204513295
Classic stuff. Nat looked good at the Bower. A lot of those boards would be worth a bit now.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:22 am

Re: talking to people about surfing. I've always worked with a few people who surf and we will often crap on about surf conditions. See a couple in the water semi regularly who live near by. That's tended to be the case for the majority of my working life. There's a few old stagers I have a chat to down the beach as well and you occasionally strike up a conversation in the surf with other people......however if your talking youre not focused on the surf and too often I've started talking pleasantly to some kook who then happily spins around and drops in on the next set.

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:41 am

Over the past 10 odd years I've run into the same guys and struck up uncomplicated friendships. These arms length relationships are great. Surfing is unique in this regard.

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