Where did you surf today ?

[ajohnsen]

Oh come the fcuk on, do you really need to make or receive a phone call at 7:30am on a Sunday morning while sitting on a long board on a pissy little break waiting for a so-called set to fart its way through? Do you? Make or receive your phone call in the car park and leave your phone in the car, you complete and utter wanker. The world is an amazing place, but not in an SBS-ad-at-the-cinema kind of way.

[dUg]

Not epic and a bit fat with a light southerly wind starting to take the shine off by the time I took this pic, but FMD... Saturday morning and 5 minutes from a Westfield and NO-ONE OUT???

I blame it on roadworks, the footy, and ongoing unfavourable surf forecasts.

[Donweather]

Sick 2-3ft A frame barrels in the afternoon sunshine, all the way until the moon rose on the horizon. Fecking sick afternoon with feck all crew!!!

[gibber]

Went for surf today. First in a long while.
Started out well, wetty fitted which was a blessing as the sou'wester had sharpened incisors that were gnawing away at my pasty flabby flesh. The walk then paddle out was sereal under the jutting bassalt and I felt a calm that I've only felt lately through intense mindfullness practice.
Finally the lineup reached, a few smiles and nods to the other assembled players on this stage and we wait for the next act to begin. Sets come and others go, I wait my turn, my calmness now focused on catching my wave. It comes and I dig deep and paddle hard, I struggle to stay with the wave but gravity finally came to my aid and I'm reaching down for the deck and pulling my legs up under me. I ride, no, its more glide along the face and slip out into the channel and collapse.
I'm fcuked, sheer exhaustion and sensory overload.
I'm back on the horse

[Nick Carroll]

Newport back bommie, fcuken windy but some good ones.

Got a couple of 12'+ steepies!

There's gonna be some good banks around here as the swell cleans up.

[aaronn]

Newport back bommie, fcuken windy but some good ones.

Got a couple of 12'+ steepies!

There's gonna be some good banks around here as the swell cleans up.

GAY

[Nick Carroll]

Yeah I wasn't surfing for you aaronn.

I'll surf for you next time ok?

[steve shearer]

Fcuk there were some swell periods on display this arvo.
I sat on the Point with Carcass and watched 18seconds of S swell marching up the coast. Neither of us had ever seen those periods before.

Unfortunately that tremendous pulse of stormsurf energy around lunch-time had sent rivers of sand packing out to the storm-bars and the opportunity for some unbelievable surf was lost.

The deckchairs will be scrambled after this lot.

[alakaboo]

Went from 1 ft and unsurfable to 4ft and great to 6ft and not much fun in an hour mid afternoon.
Least, that's what I heard, phone ringing as I did paperwork all arvo...

Swings and roundabouts.

[S4MS]

Newport back bommie, fcuken windy but some good ones.

Got a couple of 12'+ steepies!

There's gonna be some good banks around here as the swell cleans up.

How did you get ou? Anyone else out there?

[marcus]

had island and point twice, but couldnt get to island peak as was taking too long to paddle into wind.
spent nearly all my time paddling
got some average waves at point.
Daryl Boogs Vanderpolder however paddled from south cronulla to outside Elouera / Wanda
there's a pic here of him on a nice one.
got some data from my wave measuring an tracking thingo, waiting for the mathematicians to work it out.

[Nick Carroll]

Newport back bommie, fcuken windy but some good ones.

Got a couple of 12'+ steepies!

There's gonna be some good banks around here as the swell cleans up.

How did you get ou? Anyone else out there?

Just paddled out. A mate of mine came out too, got a couple and headed back in to the pool. I surfed it after that for about 90mins by myself then went in, just as Hayden Barnes went out thinking I'd still be out there. He took an hour to get a wave but then found a spot and got some in that evening glass off.

I swear, Sydney would be an awesome big wave area if we got a lot more 10-20' surf, there's sooo many bombies and rock reefs, a lot of them only break once a year so you don't have time to get them wired -- that reef is a classic example, I saw better waves than I caught. Checked Long Reef earlier in the day and little Makaha was 12' and spitting, jet ski only though, I think Grainger went there later in the day.

Toby Hance went out the pool and found himself severely undergunned, so he paddled north to get one in, as he did so, something came up underneath him and knocked him and his board clean out of the water (Toby weighs around 90kg). But then nothing happened. Shook him up according to his dad.

[alakaboo]

Tiger shark.
They hit turtles from below to try and flip them over.

[oldman]

Fark, that's unsettling.

I'm thinking about heading to a place next weekend where tigers have been said to congregate, although I have never been sure whether that was just stories that locals put around to keep us monkeys off their backs.

But at Newport!

[steve shearer]

My brother rang me yesterday arvo with a full froth on for a dawnie at the Point on big boards but I cautioned due to wind and excessive storminess that a for a working man with a small window it was a low percentage play.

It had calmed down this morning with offshore winds and some leftovers 8 maybe ten footers on the back button, a true reefbreak at that size with the inside sand bar nothing but a distant memory. Fcuk you little cockroach of a coastal low smashing the banks to bits and obscuring the proper swell.

Sat out the back with Webby, who was a on a self-shaped 9'6" for the paddle, then missed a paddle-in to a bomb set because a bit of gurgle got the nose on take-off.

We were waiting again and there were swirls and birds and random splashes in muddy river run-off. Twenty yards seawards from Webby and I a very solid shark came to the surface thrashing terrifically into a school of mullet.
"fuck" we both said and immediately began sprint paddling to the shore, we were way the fcuk out the back.
I got a mid-sized one to the hut and came in.

This was a hoax of a swell. Round here anyways.

[aaronn]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_D51Ui_XMI

[crabmeat thompson]

There's still solid energy here. Looks like it's picked up this arvy from this morning.

Just copped a thrashing and a half. Took off on a mid-sized one, scooted across the face and flicked off into a stacked horizon full of hatred for the blue collar man.

Tried to duckdive some kind of black heaving menace when I was better off downing periscope and reaching for the sand. Got picked up, smashed backwards over the falls, then again over the falls backwards on what I'm pretty sure was the same wave.

Came up, no leggie, but my board instead of taken to shore had sucked back up out the back. Bonus.

Swim for the board, catch another, straighten out and ride it to the sand. Epic swim into rock shelf avoided!

Twenty yards seawards from Webby and I a very solid shark came to the surface thrashing terrifically into a school of mullet.

You can't beat those priceless moments in the ocean, huh?

[otway1949]

The chaos of the swell has gone and the newly departed storm must have been doing its crowd pleasing death pits elsewhere as we had this with shifts of 6 to eight surfers all day both today and yesterday.
I had one three hour shift each day and ended the session with happy spaghetti arms from the three hundred metre paddle back to the take off spot lost count of the waves, well worth it.
Friday brings Bruichladdigh and and a warm fire afterwards. Turn off the news I don't want to know how the other half live tonight!!!!

You missed it by

by that much!