Summer of ASurf
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- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
Heh. I know. That whole BMI index stuff is rubbish. I've always been under 5% body fat and still wear the same boardies I did at 78kgs, yet I'm morbidly obese.
Reg would have a field day with this.
Reg would have a field day with this.
Re: Summer of ASurf
The more I surf the bulkier I get but I reckon I surf better (which aint great) when I am leaner.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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Re: Summer of ASurf
I have the Dumpling sub-species Sea mullet in hand after a frantic last minute Friday dash down the highway to get to Phil Way's glassing shed before he shut.
Saturday I finally had to deal with the reality of deadlines long since busted open and weeping like gangrenous limbs.
Which bought me to Sunday, Bloody Sunday. On such a day, good family men herd up the troops and hit the beach like the Griswalds on family vacation, despite the ever-present threat of a slightly hungover Dad with a new board blowing a fuse in frustration. Buddha never dealt with such a problem and the Dalai Lama offers no wisdom for this situation.
The surf was woeful, abysmal. Gurgle upon gurgle slapping on the shore. A half drunk , warm fourex Gold shandy filled with drunken cockroaches found the next morning.
I put the board on the beach. No go-out and enjoyed the moments of building sandcastles and splashing in the shorebreak with the kids.
Gorgeous wife paddled out on the mal and snuck a knee high piece of windswell that somehow dribbled across the bank.
Straightaway I was waving the hat (our signal for an emergency and come in immediately). She was none too happy at being dragged out of a sanity saving surf.
I've got this puppy finned with five fins. Doesn't it look natural. Like it would fly and carve and hold?.
Somehow I paddled straight into the wave of the day, somewhere between knee and thigh high I'd estimate without the benefit of photographic proof.
The board felt familiar right off the bat, that sensation of planing and speed and more wonderfully, those butterfly fins. Like a romance cut off in it's prime and now rekindled. I went fast immediately. Fast I tell ya. Turned the light switch off and got into bed before the room got dark fast.
I caught three waves before heading in. The first one lit the flame. The second two revealed the bottom end of even the finest groveller. Ankle, knee high windswell with no bottom tension cannot be ridden.
Surfing wife said I was humping the dumpling. I said "oi, I resemble that remark"
The fact that I was able to put the board in space and burst through a gap on the first touch, was revelatory.
Now, in these dark times for surf, I have found a way to extract some energy from a weak windswell.
Saturday I finally had to deal with the reality of deadlines long since busted open and weeping like gangrenous limbs.
Which bought me to Sunday, Bloody Sunday. On such a day, good family men herd up the troops and hit the beach like the Griswalds on family vacation, despite the ever-present threat of a slightly hungover Dad with a new board blowing a fuse in frustration. Buddha never dealt with such a problem and the Dalai Lama offers no wisdom for this situation.
The surf was woeful, abysmal. Gurgle upon gurgle slapping on the shore. A half drunk , warm fourex Gold shandy filled with drunken cockroaches found the next morning.
I put the board on the beach. No go-out and enjoyed the moments of building sandcastles and splashing in the shorebreak with the kids.
Gorgeous wife paddled out on the mal and snuck a knee high piece of windswell that somehow dribbled across the bank.
Straightaway I was waving the hat (our signal for an emergency and come in immediately). She was none too happy at being dragged out of a sanity saving surf.
I've got this puppy finned with five fins. Doesn't it look natural. Like it would fly and carve and hold?.
Somehow I paddled straight into the wave of the day, somewhere between knee and thigh high I'd estimate without the benefit of photographic proof.
The board felt familiar right off the bat, that sensation of planing and speed and more wonderfully, those butterfly fins. Like a romance cut off in it's prime and now rekindled. I went fast immediately. Fast I tell ya. Turned the light switch off and got into bed before the room got dark fast.
I caught three waves before heading in. The first one lit the flame. The second two revealed the bottom end of even the finest groveller. Ankle, knee high windswell with no bottom tension cannot be ridden.
Surfing wife said I was humping the dumpling. I said "oi, I resemble that remark"
The fact that I was able to put the board in space and burst through a gap on the first touch, was revelatory.
Now, in these dark times for surf, I have found a way to extract some energy from a weak windswell.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Summer of ASurf
Doubt not, that be an art, and an art worth learning.steve shearer wrote: Now, in these dark times for surf, I have found a way to extract some energy from a weak windswell.
Asked a physiologist about the lateral lines to aid my addled memory...they've got the pits but not the sensory pores or nervous connection. So you can have the backbone-stringer, but technically you should have deck channels...
I'm putting some thought into my small (sub-) wave weapon.
Think it'll fall somewhere between yours and Fong's.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
That has me frothing Shearer.
Can't wait ...
Can't wait ...
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Re: Summer of ASurf
2moro Braithy...but then there's the curing and waiting.....
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
Yeah the waiting is a killer. Still, can't wait to get me hands on it!
- Cuttlefish
- barnacle
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Re: Summer of ASurf
"You lucky, lucky bastard" to quote Monty Python.pridmore wrote:2moro Braithy...but then there's the curing and waiting.....
Your board looks very FUNctional (to borrow from Mark's vocab) Steve.
The pre-glassing shots had me thinking the tail was more pulled in than I expected but the finished board shows off its stayed true to its (shortish) lineage better.
Had any more surfs on it?
Last edited by Cuttlefish on Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Only a rat can win the rat race.
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Re: Summer of ASurf
staying true ( to a certain design type ) is never a consideration ( although it fits some category in between a mini and an early thruster, fark there's alot of room in there for just about anything)..... , making a FUNctional board is always the priority and my total aim...
SS's mullet Dumpling is a hybrid within a hybrid with a few tweaks and adjustments and modifications...
this one was always gunna be about creating something fun and a bit different for SS...he described a little fun wave he has been eyeing off down his way and that wave description was inbuilt into my thoughts as I shaped this one.....there's alot going on in this little baby and plenty of tweaking from the norm Dumpling ....
SS's mullet Dumpling is a hybrid within a hybrid with a few tweaks and adjustments and modifications...
this one was always gunna be about creating something fun and a bit different for SS...he described a little fun wave he has been eyeing off down his way and that wave description was inbuilt into my thoughts as I shaped this one.....there's alot going on in this little baby and plenty of tweaking from the norm Dumpling ....
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
There's no better aroma than a curing board sitting on your bed.
Even the wife is into it.
Even the wife is into it.
- Cuttlefish
- barnacle
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Re: Summer of ASurf
Pics of the wife on the bed... oops I mean board and wife on the bed.
Ah bugger it just the board on the bed if ya have to.
Ah bugger it just the board on the bed if ya have to.
Only a rat can win the rat race.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
I'll see if the wife will get naked and straddle the new board on the bed.
Lets kill two birds with one stone.
Lets kill two birds with one stone.
- Cpt.Caveman
- barnacle
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Re: Summer of ASurf
You're going to stone your wife?
Davros wrote:Ego saved - surfing experience rubbish.
- Cuttlefish
- barnacle
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Re: Summer of ASurf
I doubt it. Have a look at Braithy's avatar.
Christians were usually on the receiving end of a stoning weren't they?
"Are there any women here?"
"No", "no" ,"no", "no".
Come the replies, deepening in pitch as they go on.
So Steve, any more surfs on the crumpet yet?
Christians were usually on the receiving end of a stoning weren't they?
"Are there any women here?"
"No", "no" ,"no", "no".
Come the replies, deepening in pitch as they go on.
So Steve, any more surfs on the crumpet yet?
Only a rat can win the rat race.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45647
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Summer of ASurf
yeah, been surfing evryday in one foot windswell.....having a blast.
Will try and write something up this weekend.
Will try and write something up this weekend.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
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Re: Summer of ASurf
Took mine out yesterday for 2 surfs, the AM & the PM surf.
Morning was glassy, perfect little 1-2 foot runners (lefts & rights) on a high tide bank near my house. Super fun conditions and uncrowded in the morning fog. Afternoon surf was a 10 knot onshore blowing some nice, bowly shaped rights out of a little rip bank.
The morning surf was full of adjustments and I never really go into a groove. Feet too forward, too far back, struggled surfing such little rocker/ nose lift to what I'm used too ... In saying that about my 4th or 5th wave, I got onto a left and it just launched me down the line and I raced it out to the gutter where I flicked off.
The rest of the waves I seemed to struggle mostly with the quad set up. I'm use to the much looser 3 fin setups. I find I can get to where ever I need to on a wave with a thruster, but with a quad my body gets into position but my feet and board are dragging behind.
The afternoon surf was a real fun one. I musta caught 25 odd waves in a 45 min sesh (all rights), while my kids were body surfing with mum in the shorey. They were all rights ... I seemed to finding the sweet spot on the board every time, and it paddles into any energy the ocean can muster.
The board is fast as all hell and sits in the pocket well or races down the line like a freight train.
My quad surfing is really lagging, particularly my backhand. I can't seem to bring the board around off the lip 180 and smack it on a reo ... But considering prior to this board I'd ridden a quad once, and had the same problem, it's def not the board, it's me.
Hopefully after another 4 or 5 surfs I can start moving the quad rail to rail.
Great, fun board MP ... there's no way I woulda surfed y'day afternoon without it, and the fact I had a ball catching all kinds of waves, has me frothing for more Summer of Asurf.
Any ideas what I could do to make the quad setup seem looser for that kind of rail to rail surfing I wanna do?? would putting smaller back fins have a desired effect?
Cheers mate
Morning was glassy, perfect little 1-2 foot runners (lefts & rights) on a high tide bank near my house. Super fun conditions and uncrowded in the morning fog. Afternoon surf was a 10 knot onshore blowing some nice, bowly shaped rights out of a little rip bank.
The morning surf was full of adjustments and I never really go into a groove. Feet too forward, too far back, struggled surfing such little rocker/ nose lift to what I'm used too ... In saying that about my 4th or 5th wave, I got onto a left and it just launched me down the line and I raced it out to the gutter where I flicked off.
The rest of the waves I seemed to struggle mostly with the quad set up. I'm use to the much looser 3 fin setups. I find I can get to where ever I need to on a wave with a thruster, but with a quad my body gets into position but my feet and board are dragging behind.
The afternoon surf was a real fun one. I musta caught 25 odd waves in a 45 min sesh (all rights), while my kids were body surfing with mum in the shorey. They were all rights ... I seemed to finding the sweet spot on the board every time, and it paddles into any energy the ocean can muster.
The board is fast as all hell and sits in the pocket well or races down the line like a freight train.
My quad surfing is really lagging, particularly my backhand. I can't seem to bring the board around off the lip 180 and smack it on a reo ... But considering prior to this board I'd ridden a quad once, and had the same problem, it's def not the board, it's me.
Hopefully after another 4 or 5 surfs I can start moving the quad rail to rail.
Great, fun board MP ... there's no way I woulda surfed y'day afternoon without it, and the fact I had a ball catching all kinds of waves, has me frothing for more Summer of Asurf.
Any ideas what I could do to make the quad setup seem looser for that kind of rail to rail surfing I wanna do?? would putting smaller back fins have a desired effect?
Cheers mate
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45647
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Summer of ASurf
Relack your mind a little Braithy.......loosen up a little and see what kinds of lines the board want to naturally draw...they will be very different to thruster lines.
When, you've found where the board wants to go on the wave start to work within those new lines, you'll find yourself in new places doing new things, be open to that learning.
It's the differences that are enjoyable in crafts like these, but you need to let go of a few things, allow new things to happen.
When, you've found where the board wants to go on the wave start to work within those new lines, you'll find yourself in new places doing new things, be open to that learning.
It's the differences that are enjoyable in crafts like these, but you need to let go of a few things, allow new things to happen.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Summer of ASurf
Completely agree with you SS ... The afternoon surf, I was spending time on parts of the wave I've never really been on before. Little foam climbs and dead water sections, I was flying over the top of.
But I get what you mean. Let go of the whacking the shit out of things impulses I get, and listen to the board.
I'm glad we had this chat, my next surf will be focussing on where the board wants to take me.
But I get what you mean. Let go of the whacking the shit out of things impulses I get, and listen to the board.
I'm glad we had this chat, my next surf will be focussing on where the board wants to take me.
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