When does a surfer die?
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When does a surfer die?
At what age does a surfer lose his place in the lineup?
- and why?
- and do us a favour here, bracket your age after your opinion (59)
- and why?
- and do us a favour here, bracket your age after your opinion (59)
- _cant_touch_this
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when they are dead and buried........cause all the surfin they have done in thier life is still swirlin round in thier heads, and personaly, they would still feel a part of it and part of them will always be a surfer. no matter how long ago it was they stopped surfin. you know that feeling when you get to a spot you havnt been to in years, but you have had so many good sessions and great times there, that it still feels familiar and you feel like you never left......well i spose it would be like that everytime the just get near the ocean.......like my bro broke his back, and they said he would never walk again, but he never stopped thinkin of himself as a surfer......and like i wrote on another thread, a decade after his acco, he was gettin stand up backside tubes at oz pipe on his first surf in 10 years!!!!!! i reckon once you have got the bug in your head, your place will ALWAYS be in the ocean......
- Morgan The Moon
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- Location: Central Coast
Check out the Magoo Charity Classic on the Central Coast - named after one of the clubs oldest surfers (who's in his seventies).
The guy still gets his quota of 10 waves in a 20 minute heat, competes with the A-graders (some of who are about a 3rd of his age) and can still give as good as he gets.
Do I think he should still be out there - kin oath!! Just goes to show that age isn't a factor and gives me something to look forward to when I'm his age (34).
The guy still gets his quota of 10 waves in a 20 minute heat, competes with the A-graders (some of who are about a 3rd of his age) and can still give as good as he gets.
Do I think he should still be out there - kin oath!! Just goes to show that age isn't a factor and gives me something to look forward to when I'm his age (34).
- matt...
- charger
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when does a surfer die?
does a surfer die at all ?
the more famous surfers will still live in memories, print & film media long after they're gone.........
us mere mortals will still remain in the memories of fellow surfers, friends & relatives.
my dad is 64 & still surfs at Manly at least 4 - 5 times a week. He rides a mal & only likes a small swell, but he is still out there...
i am 34 & still get my fair share of waves at n.avoca & the haven, when it fires...
i swim regularly to help maintain my fitness.
my brother is 29 & is still carving at n.steyne.
we've been getting waves all our lives & haven't had too many problems in the lineup.
the only thing that pisses me off is when boogers use their flippers to beat me to an appraoching set wave !!
the more famous surfers will still live in memories, print & film media long after they're gone.........
us mere mortals will still remain in the memories of fellow surfers, friends & relatives.
my dad is 64 & still surfs at Manly at least 4 - 5 times a week. He rides a mal & only likes a small swell, but he is still out there...
i am 34 & still get my fair share of waves at n.avoca & the haven, when it fires...
i swim regularly to help maintain my fitness.
my brother is 29 & is still carving at n.steyne.
we've been getting waves all our lives & haven't had too many problems in the lineup.
the only thing that pisses me off is when boogers use their flippers to beat me to an appraoching set wave !!
when does a surfer die? NEVER!!!
When does a surfer die? NEVER!!!!
Once its in your blood, your hooked.
Even when the body gives up the ghost, you can still go out for one last session, just scatter your ashes in the ocean and ride the swells for an eternity.
Before that, just surf to the best of your ability, that's all you can ask of yourself. If it takes blood, sweat & tears to be fit enough to do it, then just do it, no complaints. When you snag a clean peak, take a late drop, carve down the line and flick off, its then you realise how lucky you are to be a surfer, especially as you get older.
As for place in the line-up, I''ve been through so many changing of the guard line-ups its irrelevent these days. Just surf well, show respect and the waves will come.
For the record, I'm still ridin a 6'2" swallow and having the time of my life. (46)
Once its in your blood, your hooked.
Even when the body gives up the ghost, you can still go out for one last session, just scatter your ashes in the ocean and ride the swells for an eternity.
Before that, just surf to the best of your ability, that's all you can ask of yourself. If it takes blood, sweat & tears to be fit enough to do it, then just do it, no complaints. When you snag a clean peak, take a late drop, carve down the line and flick off, its then you realise how lucky you are to be a surfer, especially as you get older.
As for place in the line-up, I''ve been through so many changing of the guard line-ups its irrelevent these days. Just surf well, show respect and the waves will come.
For the record, I'm still ridin a 6'2" swallow and having the time of my life. (46)
Agree with Michael's comments about the changing faces in the lineup. Who cares about that. People come and go. Just respect the ocean and other surfers and you should do fine.
As for me, my interest in surfing has waxed and waned since I first took it up 25 years ago . I'm ok with that. While some people are blessed to be constantly excited about the same thing decades on end I have a shorter attention span. I'll always surf, just sometimes I'll let a few weeks go by when I don't do so in my less interested periods. So I guess during those periods I die, or at least become comatose, but then you are revived. I don't know if that answers the question but I figure you can surf as long as you want. I don't really care what the current group of self proclaimed "locals", who usually come from somewhere else anyway, think. (38 )
As for me, my interest in surfing has waxed and waned since I first took it up 25 years ago . I'm ok with that. While some people are blessed to be constantly excited about the same thing decades on end I have a shorter attention span. I'll always surf, just sometimes I'll let a few weeks go by when I don't do so in my less interested periods. So I guess during those periods I die, or at least become comatose, but then you are revived. I don't know if that answers the question but I figure you can surf as long as you want. I don't really care what the current group of self proclaimed "locals", who usually come from somewhere else anyway, think. (38 )
All those old blokes hanging round the beach with their skin-matching,
de-elasticised speedos, scaring the young mums, swimming the beach with goggs at a ponderous rate, giving whiting reports to the fishos, bluey reports to the surfers. These are the old surfers that never moved up and down the coast to extend their surfin'. Theyre not going anywhere....I'll be right behind em....in another 20 years (nigh on 50). I know I can never leave.
de-elasticised speedos, scaring the young mums, swimming the beach with goggs at a ponderous rate, giving whiting reports to the fishos, bluey reports to the surfers. These are the old surfers that never moved up and down the coast to extend their surfin'. Theyre not going anywhere....I'll be right behind em....in another 20 years (nigh on 50). I know I can never leave.
Old surfers never die
Old surfers never lose their place in the lineup..........
"As long as there's an ocean and a strong and steady wind
I'll sail the seas forever, no land can lock me in".
"As long as there's an ocean and a strong and steady wind
I'll sail the seas forever, no land can lock me in".
just an amusing little side note. We had the intention for my grandfathers scattering of his ashes. Me and my uncle took the ashes out on his boat to my grandfathers favourite fishing spot. We were emptying the ashes out when a flock of seagulls came and took what they could. It was quite funny and i think the old guy would prefer to go out in a humerous situation. kinda like a testiment to his life.you can still go out for one last session, just scatter your ashes in the ocean and ride the swells for an eternity.
cheers david
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