Where did you surf today ?

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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by PeepeelaPew » Mon May 18, 2020 3:20 pm

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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Mon May 18, 2020 7:33 pm

good lord
Kunji wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 8:09 am
Would you mind throwing in a little more homoeroticism

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Mon May 18, 2020 7:38 pm

I have fins in my boards.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Mon May 18, 2020 8:19 pm

I chip fins and rough sand solar res and I’m done.
Better than in the past when I’d gaffa dings or stick wax in them.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue May 19, 2020 7:52 am

I had to belt a stuck single out of a fin box. Pulverised the fin. Seems to go ok.

Lovely set of shapers quads that have been hammered on rocks. Work fine for my skill level.

Side note, the FCS Reactor rears are great.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue May 19, 2020 9:17 am

yes well you're all going to drown in the next week, including legion if he goes down south, so you can "run" whatever fin sets you want. Like the little girl said to Ripley in Alien 2: "It won't make any difference."

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue May 19, 2020 9:34 am

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Mon May 18, 2020 2:35 pm
Legion wrote:
Sun May 17, 2020 6:12 pm
Surely they belong in covers, not chucked on top of each other like that
haha. you're so ocd.

i'd love to go on a boat trip to somewhere funky like west java for a month with you and shearer.
I remember when Banksy was doing his boat trips saying after many visits that he refused to stop in at One Palm Point on Panaitan Island any more. It just wasn't worth it he reckoned as the chances were someone would be seriously injured and it would stuff the rest of the boat trip.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue May 19, 2020 9:52 am

Cranked wrote:
Tue May 19, 2020 9:34 am
crabmeat thompson wrote:
Mon May 18, 2020 2:35 pm
Legion wrote:
Sun May 17, 2020 6:12 pm
Surely they belong in covers, not chucked on top of each other like that
haha. you're so ocd.

i'd love to go on a boat trip to somewhere funky like west java for a month with you and shearer.
I remember when Banksy was doing his boat trips saying after many visits that he refused to stop in at One Palm Point on Panaitan Island any more. It just wasn't worth it he reckoned as the chances were someone would be seriously injured and it would stuff the rest of the boat trip.
yeah totally. a fucking gnarly wave. trip before us the cook was telling us about a bloke who was completely scalped. we dived it on a flat day and there's nothing like it I've ever seen. Surfed it at 3 foot, and it was shallow.

but around the corner another left was 4-6 and firing and fun... just a super heavy exit before the wave dry docks onto reef. Then further along you have Napalm. Got that at 5-6 feet and heaving. fastest wave i've ever surfed, then along the next point at the opposite end of the bay from 1-palm there's the funnest right in the world. one hard section, either have to float over, or air over to make it (i made it like 3 times in about 100 waves) ... but the rest of the wave is like Burleigh with no sweep and just the boat crew out.


that whole zone is still premium, imo
Kunji wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 8:09 am
Would you mind throwing in a little more homoeroticism

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue May 19, 2020 9:53 am

buddy wrote:
Mon May 18, 2020 8:19 pm
I chip fins and rough sand solar res and I’m done.
Better than in the past when I’d gaffa dings or stick wax in them.
i put my heel through a rail last swell. waxed up the crack, applied a layer of black gaffer and away i go.
Kunji wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 8:09 am
Would you mind throwing in a little more homoeroticism

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue May 19, 2020 10:05 am

good on ya


check this video out, super shit quality but watch between 13.20 and 15.00 for me totally blowing everyone out of the water at Sunset in 1986

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9XbpQq ... c7duYh6EVA

including awesome drop ins by Bradshaw and lil brother whom I pretty much blew off the wave. Take that Kong!

channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Tue May 19, 2020 12:34 pm

With that lack of 4k content, that could be Loofy for all we know.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue May 19, 2020 12:51 pm

That whole thing was pretty awesome.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue May 19, 2020 2:17 pm

That last one you get is insane NC!

Looking back at it, what has changed in your surfing at Sunset between then and now?
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue May 19, 2020 2:34 pm

Back then I was riding a 7'4" x 3" x 19" AB six channel pintail, a lot of foam but the board was shorter, with hard down rails and with a bit more vee. I had a 7'10" as well for big big days. They both were generically shorter and thicker than what I ride today in the same size surf. That changes how you do turns, I'm less aggressive these days for sure and less inspired, at that time I was in my mid to late mid 20s and really grooving in on how I wanted to surf the place, the kinds of waves I wanted to ride -- deeper and further over on the shallow part of the reef outside the point. And locking in the bottom turns early so you could get to the barrel or the lip with speed. Really feeling a full on connection with the wave, same as lil bro was feeling a connection to Pipe.

The crew was different too, it was awesome being in that head space with guys like Schmiddy and Bobby Owens, Charlie Walker, AB, Foo, Darrick D, Sarlo and Kong and co, we just went hammer and tongs at it. Some of us competed, others like myself, Charlie and DD didn't, I still remember Darrick saying, "Nahhh, we're Freedom Riders," in his crazy growl/drawl. I never wrote much about it.

All those guys are gone now, the crowd is mostly kooks, and I surf it really easily these days, not as fiercely, just putting the turns in the right spot. Still on AB sixes but.

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Tue May 19, 2020 3:16 pm

That drop in from Kenny was pretty harsh. Was that him flexing his “local” muscles?

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue May 19, 2020 3:20 pm

I don't know! I can't recall that wave. Ken used to sit on that wide west peak, he might not have seen me, I was a long way deeper and inside. I probably faded off that and turned up underneath him. I never had a bad vibe with him at all. Ken got in all sorts of arguments out there though, jeez.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue May 19, 2020 4:10 pm

Thanks Nick. The wave Owens gets is pretty amazing too. Appreciate you sharing.
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by PeepeelaPew » Tue May 19, 2020 7:40 pm

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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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