Just general surfing stuff

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators

User avatar
The Mighty Sunbird
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22835
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
Location: Pogo's

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:39 pm

:lol: “well aj you know what they say, it takes a village to make a kid do something really stupid”
Erase.

User avatar
The Mighty Sunbird
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22835
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:43 pm
Location: Pogo's

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:41 pm

My first was a backyard single fin which for some reason had chook feathers in the glass around the fin.
I have no memory of the first wave or board I stood up on
Cos I live in the moment, man
Erase.

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:37 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:36 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm


Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
I think we can all agree on that, Brine Brother. It's Realsurfers you're talking to here remember.
I can tell you it’s AWESOME being AWESOME.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

gcuts
Grommet
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:15 am
Location: Qld

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by gcuts » Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.

My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.

We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.

We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.

Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!

This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.

Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.

So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?

FMD.

And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?

FMD.

User avatar
foamy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7901
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:01 pm

Get away with what?
Saying it’s awesome being a good surfer?

Well, if that annoys you, Nick wrote a whole book on the subject.

“The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best - Vol 2 : Advanced surf skills and knowledge for all surfers” by Nick Carroll

You could buy that book and be super annoyed.

User avatar
BA
Duke Status
Posts: 13448
Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:03 pm
Location: Mexico

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:53 pm

If I could surf like NC I’d tell everyone. Like just tell strangers as I passed them in the street.

channels
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 9918
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:36 pm
Location: Northen Beaches

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by channels » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:57 pm

If I could surf like NC, I'd post Surfline videos of myself to forums.

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:01 pm

Don’t let Carroll off the hook. I get what what he saying, he’s appreciative that he can surf great breaks and stoked it’s a skill he’s acquired and maintained.

Still a nob though :lol:
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

User avatar
godsavetheking
Duke Status
Posts: 11127
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:47 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:03 pm

Most Australians are pretty conceited. Oh you hide it quite well behind that faux humility and self deprecation but that’s always very much only skin deep
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

User avatar
marauding mullet
Duke Status
Posts: 11460
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:13 pm
Location: an upside down valiant

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:07 pm

Ca’n Goddy, do the Ozzy accent
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011
Lucky Al wrote:
Fri Aug 18, 2023 10:07 pm
You're a spazz Mighty Sunbird.

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:31 pm

I dunno god save I think it's a bit hard to pin down an Australian cliche right now. That ad campaign with Kylie Minogue etc may have hit the spot for terrified Britons who wish there was a decent white country somewhere out there who will grovel to them and love the Queen or whatever, but it's as far from the truth as Wales is from Hawaii. Australia is no longer white and English, it's a hacked up melting pot of mad ex-nationalities, exactly the kind of place Britishers are scared shitless of their own little island becoming. Ghastly. That self deprecating boastfulness is just a memory, along with Barry fcuking Mackenzie and every other cheeseball cultural reference you can imagine.

User avatar
godsavetheking
Duke Status
Posts: 11127
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:47 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:35 pm

You should the latest ad for Wales. It looks fcuking amazing. I genuinely had no idea what it was an advert for until Visit Wales popped up at the end
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm

What? The seaplane one?
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

User avatar
godsavetheking
Duke Status
Posts: 11127
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:47 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm

Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:59 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm
Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)
Nup. Not the seaplane one.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:14 pm

gcuts wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.

My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.

We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.

We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.

Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!

This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.

Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.

So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?

FMD.

And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?

FMD.
Pretty understated really, Nick only said he was a good surfer.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
godsavetheking
Duke Status
Posts: 11127
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:47 am

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:27 pm

Yeah but that was just the faux humility talking. Underneath he was shouting ‘I AM A SURFING GOD’
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:30 pm

Trev wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm
What? The seaplane one?
WTF does Trev watch ads for Wales????

This whole thing is way more fcuked up than I thought

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 61 guests