Just general surfing stuff

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:07 pm

well aj you know what they say, it takes a village to make a kid do something really stupid

look you guys, the days of riding shit boards are over.

If you want the best out of surfing, you get a good board for whatever stage of surfing you're at and whatever age you are at the time. These days, that may not be what you guys rode 40 years ago as teenagers.

Also, punishing grommets is a bit thin on the ground these days for good reason.

Kids enjoy their surfing when they're doing it with other kids, they grow up pretty quick and form their own friendships in the water. They get to invent surfing for themselves. Surfing becomes a way of letting them go. They may come back to you over time, as they do in other areas of life.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm

As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.

My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.

We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.

We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.

Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!

This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.

Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.

So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:36 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm


Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
I think we can all agree on that, Brine Brother. It's Realsurfers you're talking to here remember.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:39 pm

:lol: “well aj you know what they say, it takes a village to make a kid do something really stupid”
Erase.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:41 pm

My first was a backyard single fin which for some reason had chook feathers in the glass around the fin.
I have no memory of the first wave or board I stood up on
Cos I live in the moment, man
Erase.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:37 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:36 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm


Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.
I think we can all agree on that, Brine Brother. It's Realsurfers you're talking to here remember.
I can tell you it’s AWESOME being AWESOME.
“Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far” — THEODORE ROOSVELT

gcuts
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by gcuts » Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:00 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:18 pm
As I've probably bored you with before, my first board was a 5'8" squash tail single fin. I didn't know it at the time but it was originally shaped for Nat Young who rode it in the 1970 world contest at Johanna.

My lil bro's first board was a Ron Wade 5'6" pop-out double ender singly.

We got beyond those boards very quickly and two years later were riding hand shaped 6' plus pintails, v much the high performance boards of their time.

We never bothered with "the glide" or whatever - just pushed ahead with surfing and boards as quickly as our circumstances allowed. It was just about time in the water and the number of waves caught.

Nobody tried to impose a vision of surfing on us, we looked out at the world and chose what visions we liked and followed them. Adults? Ha!

This is pretty congruent with almost every good to very good surfer I've ever talked with about their origins and development.

Can I tell you, it is AWESOME being a good surfer, riding the waves you've dreamed of in a fitting manner, pushing it with confidence, and over time developing a rhythm and consistency that allows you to understand where you're at in quite a fine edged way, surf to surf.

Anyone can be good, it does not take a special body type or any of that shit, it is purely about that first two or three years in the water and how you carry those lessons into further challenges.

So don't undercut your kids, give 'em a shot, maybe they won't take it but that'll be their choice.
Really?

FMD.

And the crowd in here let's you get away with this stuff?

FMD.

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foamy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:01 pm

Get away with what?
Saying it’s awesome being a good surfer?

Well, if that annoys you, Nick wrote a whole book on the subject.

“The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best - Vol 2 : Advanced surf skills and knowledge for all surfers” by Nick Carroll

You could buy that book and be super annoyed.

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:53 pm

If I could surf like NC I’d tell everyone. Like just tell strangers as I passed them in the street.

channels
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by channels » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:57 pm

If I could surf like NC, I'd post Surfline videos of myself to forums.

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:01 pm

Don’t let Carroll off the hook. I get what what he saying, he’s appreciative that he can surf great breaks and stoked it’s a skill he’s acquired and maintained.

Still a nob though :lol:
“Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far” — THEODORE ROOSVELT

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:03 pm

Most Australians are pretty conceited. Oh you hide it quite well behind that faux humility and self deprecation but that’s always very much only skin deep

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marauding mullet
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:07 pm

Ca’n Goddy, do the Ozzy accent
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:31 pm

I dunno god save I think it's a bit hard to pin down an Australian cliche right now. That ad campaign with Kylie Minogue etc may have hit the spot for terrified Britons who wish there was a decent white country somewhere out there who will grovel to them and love the Queen or whatever, but it's as far from the truth as Wales is from Hawaii. Australia is no longer white and English, it's a hacked up melting pot of mad ex-nationalities, exactly the kind of place Britishers are scared shitless of their own little island becoming. Ghastly. That self deprecating boastfulness is just a memory, along with Barry fcuking Mackenzie and every other cheeseball cultural reference you can imagine.

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:35 pm

You should the latest ad for Wales. It looks fcuking amazing. I genuinely had no idea what it was an advert for until Visit Wales popped up at the end

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:38 pm

What? The seaplane one?
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavethequeen » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm

Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)

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Trev
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:59 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:54 pm
Dunno, wasn’t really paying much attention. It had the snowdonia zip line (but not the wave pool)
Nup. Not the seaplane one.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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