The Bodysurfing Appreciation Thread

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Kunji
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The Bodysurfing Appreciation Thread

Post by Kunji » Wed Nov 08, 2006 12:50 pm

Who here goes out with just a pair of fins?

I enjoy this in the summer time at South Narra when its thumping. Over the years i have learnt that there is alot to it. Its a whole different way of positioning yourself on take off and in the tube. As for functionality goes its not that practical, but it feels great to look up in the tube hugging wall.
From this you get a better understanding of waves, i think, and it sure helps you appreciate board surfing more so.

What do you think?

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Post by deepsouth » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:09 pm

Right on Coops!

I've been getting into it a fair bit in the last couple of months, particularly when it's smaller and the clubbies put the flags up on the best break!
I find it really gives you an appreciation of (as gay as it sounds!) "flow". After plenty of failed waves, I've found that the best way to "ride" is with a minimal amount of direction changing and flailing about because you to lose speed. Also, when it all comes together and you get a wave breaking at exactly the right speed, you can sit in the barrel and just cruise.

I wouldn't always ride this way but certainly makes for an interesting change in the point of view and it's better than swimming in a pool!

Anyone out there tried the "dolphin" thing that Rasta does in Blue Horizon? I've been trying to get that down pat as well. That's an awesome feeling when you get it right as well!

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Post by Kunji » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:14 pm

deepsouth wrote:Anyone out there tried the "dolphin" thing that Rasta does in Blue Horizon? I've been trying to get that down pat as well. That's an awesome feeling when you get it right as well!
Hell yeah!!! :)

You need a wave over 3 foot imo. Last year at Queenscliff i was dolphining the whole surf. There is a pocket you get caught in just below mid-way point behind the wave. You can get long rides and direction yourself (either left or right). Amazing feeling using all parts of the wave like that.

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Post by The Oracle » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:39 pm

Big fan of bodysurfing - think I've harped on a bit in a previous post about how good it is when it's just you and the wave. I don't go so much for the barrell action, I enjoy it more when it's big and crumbling - get out the back, hook a big one and just cruise.

Definitely more a summer thing too, I feel too much like a seal bodysurfing on a grey winter's day...

Had a couple of my fav bodysurfs at DY, sitting just off the point and taking surfer scraps. When you're not catching them you get a great view too. Wouldn't recommend it on too low a tide - it's bad enough booging and seeing dry rock in front of you, when there's no board under you it's a whole new story!

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Post by deepsouth » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:41 pm

guard wrote:
Using a maccas tray its pretty good, even if its a solid shorey its pretty fun.
Wasn't the maccas tray superseded by the bodyboard... :lol:

I remember riding one up at North Burleigh in about 3-4ft shorey and it was great fun. Best thing of all is if you lose it, you go and get lunch and pick up another one!!!

After dolphining under the water, I think I'm beginning to understand what Greenough was on about all those years ago

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Post by crooked » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:41 pm

Bodysurfing is awesome!

I love dolphining- the feeling is unreal- you can actually pop out like a dolphin too on bigger waves.

I like going bodysurfing when its real big too- so much easier to get the back. Just dive down low and go go go- your out in no time.

Ive also bodysurfed 6-8ft bommies with noone out- that was a pretty humbling experience but worth it for the adrenaline rushes.

cant wait to perfect my dolphin technique this summer!

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Post by Longygrom » Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:50 pm

maccas trays are the best. ive been body surfing a bit out white rock when its really low tide and just breaking- no one out and just little barrels to yourself.

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Post by Kunji » Wed Nov 08, 2006 2:08 pm

Who was that bodysurfing nut who used to go out Surge at 6 foot? (Guard might know)

We used to have a nutter who took off at Kunji out at DY Point at 6 - 8 foot. Absolute hellman. Never have seen anything like it since!

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Post by crooked » Wed Nov 08, 2006 3:19 pm

Steve Doney

At + 60 years he is still charging absoultely crazy waves.

First to surf 'ours' as well

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Post by puurri » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:12 pm

[quote="guard"]Ill have to get back to you with the names of a few guys who used to bodysurf the island on large days.


Gary Birdsall and Jack Eden photo exhib gives a few names incl yours truly and abt 8 who did the Island from 63 on. I have a recent post on this for info.

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Post by puurri » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:14 pm

crooked wrote:Steve Doney

At + 60 years he is still charging absoultely crazy waves.


Doney wasn't the first but one of a few who did. (I'm in my 60th)

First to surf 'ours' as well
read above

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Post by andycumo » Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:52 pm

never really get out bodyurfing when its over 2ft but i have made a few great barrels in my time.
i also love dolphining and shooting through the face and is a much better way to take off!

this summer will try get out on the body on a big day should be sick!

the only thing that i find hard is being in position for a good peak as you catn really see whats coming.

whens that next comp on?

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Post by chopescahrger » Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:18 pm

i luv bodysurfing it sik fun
love doing it in solid shorey s
very fun air dropping in lips
and i like doing those swivlelly rolls things my record is like 7 on a wave
r there ne comps around the place

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Post by dammit__01 » Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:25 pm

im not to great at bodyburfing but i have made a pussy ass barrel :P :lol:

usually go out when there is just big closeouts on shore with a few mates. go out catch the bomb set eat shit laugh do it again :lol:

this dolphin idea sounds very good though ... i might have to try it.

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Post by --++sunstroke++-- » Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:31 pm

The Oracle wrote:Had a couple of my fav bodysurfs at DY, sitting just off the point and taking surfer scraps. When you're not catching them you get a great view too. Wouldn't recommend it on too low a tide - it's bad enough booging and seeing dry rock in front of you, when there's no board under you it's a whole new story!
I'd love to give first rock a go at 3-5ft :D

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Post by Beanpole » Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:29 pm

My dad taught me how to do dolphin take offs when I was a kid and I still think of him when I do them today. He always said to keep your chin tucked in so you don't break your neck if you hit bottom. You really get a tremendous amount of pressure propelling you on a solidish wave.

One of the disadvantages of legropes is the loss of body surfing skills.

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Post by Kunji » Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:18 am

Here is some bodysurfing action from the 2006 championships at Pipe. :)

http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/photos/pipebodysurf06.htm

p.s I came out of my first tube bodysurfing last year at Freshie. Quite an amazing feeling. Have you guys made any?

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Post by Longygrom » Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:58 am

Coops@DY wrote: Have you guys made any?
Coops those pics are so inspiring.

Yeah i usually ill make 1/3 tubes at white rock- and sometimes i prefer to just pop put the back mid barrel so it saves me swallowing water when it closes down

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