Hi,
I was just wondering if you guys actively play around with your single fin set-up on your longboards?
I have a hand made dain thomas 11 inch fin for my noserider and generally play around with fin variations anywhere from 9" to 11".
SouthCoast longboards do great fins as does Fluid Foils
Can you reccomend any other company in Australia to get insane traditional longboard fins?
Cheers
Playing around with fins on your log
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Hi
Personally when I take the 9'1 out I don't really play with the set-up. It's a D shaped fin almost 12" - 9" from tip to deck probably 3/4 of the way back and seems to work OK. Some move it back to get wider sweeping turns or forward for tighter turns.
My sisters boyfriend has an 8'6 egg cut down the big D fin to about 4" and every day keeps moving it always trying to find the perfect position but never does any turns or anything....hmmmm
Cya
Personally when I take the 9'1 out I don't really play with the set-up. It's a D shaped fin almost 12" - 9" from tip to deck probably 3/4 of the way back and seems to work OK. Some move it back to get wider sweeping turns or forward for tighter turns.
My sisters boyfriend has an 8'6 egg cut down the big D fin to about 4" and every day keeps moving it always trying to find the perfect position but never does any turns or anything....hmmmm
Cya
Never confuse ambition with ability
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Morgan The Moon
- Local
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I made these fins for my 9'6" & 9' old school 50/50 railers over the few years. The two on the right are the ones I am currently using. They may look familiar to those who ride Cooperfish longboards as they are based on the Cooperfish "Comet" fin. Great fin on point breaks, I set it as far back in the box as possible so the tip is past the tail. On beach breaks I move it foward.
The third from the right is my own design. I thought it was a pretty good fin until I started using the above fins.
Ok the 14" monster was an experiment that sort of worked. I restored a 1966/7 Scott Dillon 9'8" and the owner wanted to replace the fin that was in it. He had a photo of what he wanted, and he said make it about 14". The fin worked for him. He could not believe the difference it made to the board. I made this one and tried it. Great bottom turn with acceleration!! good in trim, fine on the nose, back for a dropknee turn, the thing would not break out of trim. Might be ok on a fast point break where you don't have to cutback. The D fin, well it is a D fin. platty.
The third from the right is my own design. I thought it was a pretty good fin until I started using the above fins.
Ok the 14" monster was an experiment that sort of worked. I restored a 1966/7 Scott Dillon 9'8" and the owner wanted to replace the fin that was in it. He had a photo of what he wanted, and he said make it about 14". The fin worked for him. He could not believe the difference it made to the board. I made this one and tried it. Great bottom turn with acceleration!! good in trim, fine on the nose, back for a dropknee turn, the thing would not break out of trim. Might be ok on a fast point break where you don't have to cutback. The D fin, well it is a D fin. platty.
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Beanpole
- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 68747
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
That clears that up for me. I have never seen a D fin for a fin box. How much pressure would that put on the box?
I've got an old reverse D fin I ripped off an old pig board I used to ride ten years ago. Never got around to putting it back in since the board is something of a write off with lifting glass and rotten foam. It used to nose ride well though with a 23inch roundtail.
I've got an old reverse D fin I ripped off an old pig board I used to ride ten years ago. Never got around to putting it back in since the board is something of a write off with lifting glass and rotten foam. It used to nose ride well though with a 23inch roundtail.
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JohnHenry
Hi Bondi,
My thoughts on experimenting with fins go like this. "Only single fins work on longboards", old or new. . I use a range of fins from 10 1/2" to 13" long (which is governed by the tail width of the board). The longest fins are used to prevent spinout if you realy want to lay into your bottom turns on hollow waves and also to keep the tail tight when you are on the nose. For me this was essential as I surfed Lennox Point as my home break for many years and the point tends NOT to be user friendly on a mal on faster bowler days if you don't put your board on the rail and realy drive under the lip out of the bottom turns. To get all this fin length to work for me, the longer the fin the more rake back (end of the tip behind the base) and also increase the flex from mid way up the length to the tip as the fins increase in length and increase the base lenghth accordingly. The end result, more length, more rake = more drive. If you don't increase the flex with the length it becomes more difficult to do cut backs or drive off the top of heavier lips. Where did all this come from? years of checking out George Greenough's equipment.
Greenough's boards are another world away from being a mal but for me the principles work. I now make some of my own fins but in the begining I took a grinder to some of Phil Ways "Fluid Foils" largest fins and tuned them to my needs.
Hope this has been of some help.
JohnHenry
My thoughts on experimenting with fins go like this. "Only single fins work on longboards", old or new. . I use a range of fins from 10 1/2" to 13" long (which is governed by the tail width of the board). The longest fins are used to prevent spinout if you realy want to lay into your bottom turns on hollow waves and also to keep the tail tight when you are on the nose. For me this was essential as I surfed Lennox Point as my home break for many years and the point tends NOT to be user friendly on a mal on faster bowler days if you don't put your board on the rail and realy drive under the lip out of the bottom turns. To get all this fin length to work for me, the longer the fin the more rake back (end of the tip behind the base) and also increase the flex from mid way up the length to the tip as the fins increase in length and increase the base lenghth accordingly. The end result, more length, more rake = more drive. If you don't increase the flex with the length it becomes more difficult to do cut backs or drive off the top of heavier lips. Where did all this come from? years of checking out George Greenough's equipment.
Greenough's boards are another world away from being a mal but for me the principles work. I now make some of my own fins but in the begining I took a grinder to some of Phil Ways "Fluid Foils" largest fins and tuned them to my needs.
Hope this has been of some help.
JohnHenry
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