Re: Midlengths
Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 9:49 pm
Midlength single fins with seventies fins and rocker can have their place but seriously it's pretty damn limiting.
Solid 6' + with this setup was less than ideal. The fear/froth combo before the paddle out had me forget completely. Until my first wave. Too far to paddle back in and change though I probably should haveBeerfan wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:33 amswvic wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:05 amOn small fins. I have a JD 6'2" stepup. Went on a road trip to sth NSW last year and only wanted to take one board so that was it - just in case. Took some tiny fins for smaller days. PG3 in the rear, quad rears in front. Haven't changed them back. Not ideal for smaller days, but more than surfable. No problem when it gets bigger. Feels much freeer, but still holds well
Awesome, thanks mate. I was worried I'd miss drive but it is 7'4'' so should be ok. It's really about finding a way of making it work good enough to surf everyday waves. Big fins work for me in wide tail small wave boards ( though after switching to bog standard quads after keel quad in my groveller jd I loved it ) but in other boards I'm going to try to reduce the area.
That's why I like it.
You found the limits! Guess I'm hoping to as well, but nowhere near 6' thanks haha.swvic wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:27 pmSolid 6' + with this setup was less than ideal. The fear/froth combo before the paddle out had me forget completely. Until my first wave. Too far to paddle back in and change though I probably should haveBeerfan wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:33 amswvic wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:05 amOn small fins. I have a JD 6'2" stepup. Went on a road trip to sth NSW last year and only wanted to take one board so that was it - just in case. Took some tiny fins for smaller days. PG3 in the rear, quad rears in front. Haven't changed them back. Not ideal for smaller days, but more than surfable. No problem when it gets bigger. Feels much freeer, but still holds well
Awesome, thanks mate. I was worried I'd miss drive but it is 7'4'' so should be ok. It's really about finding a way of making it work good enough to surf everyday waves. Big fins work for me in wide tail small wave boards ( though after switching to bog standard quads after keel quad in my groveller jd I loved it ) but in other boards I'm going to try to reduce the area.
Actually should have had my 7'0" semi gun
JET01 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:00 pmThat's why I like it.
From my perspective, he has a graceful smooth style that is achievable to almost any punter that can put the time in.
I'd love to see more promotion of performance midlength surfing. particularly in the 6'6-7'6 range.
I mean, it's all well and good the big brands pushing their high performance shapes onto up and coming groms that want to surf the same shapes as the pro's, but what about the late bloomer that will never have the time to develop the skill to get the most out of a hpsb?
Many of us carry injuries that preclude us for venturing above the lip. Even a lot of moves that are on the face are inaccessible to those of us that have taken up surfing later in life.
What I like about Devon's surfing is the simplicity. Beautiful, flowing, powerful turns on big boards in bigger waves.
I flirt with high performance boards (a la my tomo EVO tangent i'm currently on), but I know that eventually when my back deteriorates and my priorities change, I'll spend more and more time on the midlengths just enjoying the glide, easy paddling and simplicity.
I've been surprised at the lack of online content available from companies like Firewire around their Seaxe model for example. I fondled a 7'2 in Bondi the other day, and in my opinion it's a weapon. But when you look online for footage of people surfing them... nada. It was good to see some good footage in the Deus movies (South to Sian etc) recently, but still, young rippers on alternative boards. The average guy will just look at this and see through it for what it is, an advertisement.
Now that we live in times where it's generally acceptable to surf any size/shape board you want. I'm surprised there isn't more of a focus on these boards and style of surfing.
I agree 100%. I got turned onto midlengths about 15 years ago watching this old digger riding a 7'6 DVS up the coast one year. He was drawing these beautiful lines and performing effortless figure 8''s. I pondered for years what he was riding. It was yellow with a winged emblem, that's all I remembered.JET01 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:00 pmThat's why I like it.
From my perspective, he has a graceful smooth style that is achievable to almost any punter that can put the time in.
I'd love to see more promotion of performance midlength surfing. particularly in the 6'6-7'6 range.
I mean, it's all well and good the big brands pushing their high performance shapes onto up and coming groms that want to surf the same shapes as the pro's, but what about the late bloomer that will never have the time to develop the skill to get the most out of a hpsb?
Many of us carry injuries that preclude us for venturing above the lip. Even a lot of moves that are on the face are inaccessible to those of us that have taken up surfing later in life.
What I like about Devon's surfing is the simplicity. Beautiful, flowing, powerful turns on big boards in bigger waves.
I flirt with high performance boards (a la my tomo EVO tangent i'm currently on), but I know that eventually when my back deteriorates and my priorities change, I'll spend more and more time on the midlengths just enjoying the glide, easy paddling and simplicity.
I've been surprised at the lack of online content available from companies like Firewire around their Seaxe model for example. I fondled a 7'2 in Bondi the other day, and in my opinion it's a weapon. But when you look online for footage of people surfing them... nada. It was good to see some good footage in the Deus movies (South to Sian etc) recently, but still, young rippers on alternative boards. The average guy will just look at this and see through it for what it is, an advertisement.
Now that we live in times where it's generally acceptable to surf any size/shape board you want. I'm surprised there isn't more of a focus on these boards and style of surfing.
Its mainly the hull I reckon, that's what they do easily on waves like that.
Beautiful Davros, at night before bed I gently caress the rails and run my hands over the beautifully pulled in tail.
Whereabouts Dav.....sounds like my old boss and genuine aus surfing legend Lester Brien.
That is some serious board poontang you were caressing. Gato must be a diamond.JaM71 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2017 5:53 pmBeautiful Davros, at night before bed I gently caress the rails and run my hands over the beautifully pulled in tail.
I went to Byron and checked out the Howard mini and christenson s, I quite like the Mctavish Rincon but the Gato just felt amazing.
Only had it a month and have been quite surprised how well it goes in smaller waves. Just a beautiful hully ride, nice and loose off the tail, good trim spot & it's pretty quick