new short board for big...old...guy...

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Hatchnam
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:49 am

Depending on how it's breaking. If it's walled up and clean it'll be fun. But if it's breaking random and shifty it'll challenge you, Big Time. But like any board, there's a lot more to take into total consideration than "how many fins it has". That board on gummie would be loose, adaptable, and user friendly enough for a mix of conditions.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:04 am

Petulance. Read this. It's a pretty good insight and summary in what the feel of a single is. http://www.surfermag.com/blogs/design-f ... ingle-fin/

For the past few months I've had my old single fin sitting in the back of the wagon as a second option. And depending on how the waves are breaking I will take it out. I'm typically looking for conditions that are walled up, predictable, and preferably pretty clean. Though on the weekend I still took it out a couple of times even though the conditions for it weren't ideal.

Yesterday, I gave it a run at 5ft wanda thru greenhills. A bit cross-shore and wind affected, but still well structured long drawn out fast down the line walls with heaps of room that you could tear down.

No abrupt movements, mostly a swooping highline with subtle adjustments to trim line, and some more drawn out rail turns to cover ground linking up each section.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:25 am

Interesting article. Thanks for the link. And I also thought that a single fin would be better suited to clean conditions.

Rented this board for the next few days ... 6'4" x 21" x 2 3/4" ... the other boards in the shop were sub-6ft Merricks / Firewires or 8ft+ boards

http://www.bearsurfboards.com.au/Bear_S ... Retro.html
Image
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:27 am

Good choice Pet.
Very versatile design.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:03 pm

Excellent choice petulance. A stubbie 1 + 2. Time to start getting a feeling for how to "map" a wave out. Being a single fin based design, it will force you to do just that.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:44 pm

Took the board out in mostly 1ft conditions, with the odd set being 2ft if I'm being generous. It was the perfect board for the conditions, certainly better than a retro looking HPS that a Seppo bird was riding. She was larger (as in athletically big, not fat) than me and didn't catch a single wave during that session.

Took me a few waves to work out my foot placement. I blew the first two due being too far back on the board. Once I got it sorted it was pretty sweet. Duck diveable and lots of volume for easy paddling. It definitely feels different to my Miller Waterskate. I'm not sure if it was the conditions or the 2+1 setup but it either felt too slow or fast. I didn't make some sections and outran the wave on others.

The board's thickness is 2 3/8" instead of 2 3/4" but it is so foiled from the tail onwards that it feels like a 2 3/4".
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by alakaboo » Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:41 pm

Do you understand fractions?
I had a 6ft one of those. Good at high tide bra, or low on that left in the middle
Bit flat otherwise, but if you don't surf above head high that matters less

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Wed Sep 24, 2014 11:32 pm

eh? 3/8 is more than 25% but less than 50%, so still less than the 75% which is 3/4.
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by offshore1 » Thu Sep 25, 2014 3:04 am

Maybe boo thought as i, wouldn't 'so foiled' make it feel thinner?

where are you surfing pet? The north coast, Arecibo, Jobos, Middles should all have trade wind surf. Wouldn't be surprised if there isn't some swell showing over in Rincon. San Juan would be the smallest most likely.

oo, it is tiny: http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/job ... rico_6680/
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by alakaboo » Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:29 am

Yeah, what he said.
The way you wrote it makes it sound like it is thin, having had one I know it has soft rails and lots of volume with sharpish rails in the tail

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:14 am

petulance wrote:I'm not sure if it was the conditions or the 2+1 setup but it either felt too slow or fast. I didn't make some sections and outran the wave on others.
Sounds more like 'positioning' dude.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:50 pm

offshore1 wrote: where are you surfing pet? The north coast, Arecibo, Jobos, Middles should all have trade wind surf. Wouldn't be surprised if there isn't some swell showing over in Rincon. San Juan would be the smallest most likely.

oo, it is tiny: http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/job ... rico_6680/
Went out to Jobos as it was the only break working. There was nothing at Rincon and Middles at Isabel wasn't working as well. Not much of a crowd and the takeoff section was in the middle, not behind the rock.

Managed to get some knee to waist high waves at Domes yesterday during low tide. Beggars, choosers ...
offshore1 wrote:Maybe boo thought as i, wouldn't 'so foiled' make it feel thinner?
alakaboo wrote:Yeah, what he said.
The way you wrote it makes it sound like it is thin, having had one I know it has soft rails and lots of volume with sharpish rails in the tail
Mmmm, I thought being "so foiled" meant that the thickness was very uniform throughout the board, hence making it thick? The board is exactly how Boo described it.
Hatchnam wrote:
petulance wrote:I'm not sure if it was the conditions or the 2+1 setup but it either felt too slow or fast. I didn't make some sections and outran the wave on others.
Sounds more like 'positioning' dude.
Uhm, yeah, it could be that as well.
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by buzzy » Sat Sep 27, 2014 5:27 pm

I'm a huge fan of Miller's boards. His speciality is middle aged, middle to larger sized life long surfers who want to surf shortboards. I currently just have a 6'7" V-Skate thruster for me at 49 & 90kg but really that board would do me in all conditions from around 1 foot to 6 foot. I'd love to get a SUB-X for 0-1 foot days and maybe that will happen next year.

I'm also a big McCoy fan. However, his boards are increasingly, well, BIG. I tended to prefer the Darren Rogers shapes when Darren shaped there. While I love McCoys I haven't owned one for a while.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by el rancho » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:27 pm

buzzy wrote:I'm a huge fan of Miller's boards. His speciality is middle aged, middle to larger sized life long surfers who want to surf shortboards. I currently just have a 6'7" V-Skate thruster for me at 49 & 90kg but really that board would do me in all conditions from around 1 foot to 6 foot. I'd love to get a SUB-X for 0-1 foot days and maybe that will happen next year.

I'm also a big McCoy fan. However, his boards are increasingly, well, BIG. I tended to prefer the Darren Rogers shapes when Darren shaped there. While I love McCoys I haven't owned one for a while.

rabbit bartholomew surfs gunther rohns and he rips on them still and he's ancient
simon anderson and muzza bourton look like they know how to shape a hi-perf thruster for the older or portly surfer

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Drailed » Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:49 pm

Yeah simon can get a fair bit of foam into his boards very nicely. I think we mentioned the mollusc previously didn't we??
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by BA » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:42 pm

Just watched a guy absolutely shred 2ft DY Point on his Hypto Krypto. Would have been in his forties and was wearing a steamer, booties and a helmet. It's 27 degrees! Guess if you rip you can wear what you like.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by 8 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:36 pm

BA wrote:Just watched a guy absolutely shred 2ft DY Point on his Hypto Krypto. Would have been in his forties and was wearing a steamer, booties and a helmet. It's 27 degrees! Guess if you rip you can wear what you like.
If it was between 10 and 3 he was probably trying to cut down his UV exposure rather than staying warm I reckons.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:28 am

Matticus Finch wrote:Well I think this is just FANTASTIC!

new short board for big...old...guy...
Is now second hand board, possibly short but maybe not, for Petulance, someone I think of as the most svelte, flexible and least cranky among us.
lol ... my fitness seems to have taken a turn for the worst since my hols. My first paddle out after getting back was hard. And I felt worst after a slow 4km run yesterday than I did after a fast 14km run on a hilly course a few months back.

alakaboo wrote:Have you ridden a biscuit? They are fun as hell in small beachies, unfortunately they are also made out of eggshells and cobwebs
Do you mean a biscuit shape in general, or the Channel Islands Biscuit model? I have seen one up close and it looked to me like a McCoy Nugget.
alakaboo wrote: Petulance just stop thinking so much and surf more.borrow boards if you can^^
Unfortunately, the guy I surf most with, and his mates, are all riding Hypto Kryptos in lengths of 5'8" to 5'11". And his other boards are a 5'4" fish and a 5'11" Dumpster Diver (which I sold to him when I realised it was too small for me).

Hatchnam wrote: Look, if you're itching to get yourself a second board, how about a smallish (6'4) roundtail single-fin, one that's a good paddler, but still nimble. Something still loose and adaptable enough for the waves you most often surf (be it walling up or shorter/peaky) but forcing you to surf clean lines and work on your style. If your style and positioning is up to shit on a single-fin it'll punish you very quickly. You'll soon learn what you're doing wrong, and work to correct it.
That board in the link to the singlefin on GumTree you posted would have been great. Unfortunately I was away at the time. I'm keeping an eye out on GumTree to see if anything similar appears. I actually won't mind getting a second hand 6'4" Bear Wombat 2+1 as I rented one on my holidays and it felt good. A brand new Wombat Mk II is about $1150 though.
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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