new short board for big...old...guy...

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swvic
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by swvic » Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:28 pm

As a grom, me and my mates were of the opinion a new board every 6 mths was essential to keep you fresh and progressing. I know I suspected you of beingvery modest in your ability, pet, but I also think that a semi-regular new board is a good thing for most keen, and particularly, young(ish) surfers. I say, rather than pull the trigger on a newy, surf as many of your mates boards as you can. Iggs talks about chasing down peaks and it's very important to give you any little advantage, but I'm 51, have a seriously fcuked shoulder and chased down heaps of the fcukers today on a 5'9". Admittedly, it was only 2 ft, I was on my own and the chasing wasn't excessive, but chase them I did. You can do it on anything if you maintain vigilance

Until today, I had almost considered getting rid of the little board I surfed, but now I know I'm not quite ready for doing so. For some reference, it's a poly Dan Tomo V4 with pointy nose so prob equivalent to a 5'4" in the chop off nose. 19" wide. 2 1/4 thick. Poly. Will do anything you want it to from stand and nothing, run down a section or gouge it anywhere
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by StayPuft » Sun Sep 14, 2014 8:16 pm

Petulance, I have a 6'4" x 20" x 2 5/8" v-skate that sounds like the perfect small step down from your waterskate. Not only is it a bit smaller, but the v-skate is that bit less volumed. I don't surf it much any more, but it's too well-used to make it worth selling...and besides, I have a soft spot for it after it helped me transition down from a mini-mal.

I reckon it's a great board, really user-friendly and taught me heaps. You're welcome to have a lend. I surf Maroubra as well - we actually had a chat on the beach once. If you want to give me a yell when you're around, we can sort something out. Only problem is that I'm pretty flat out at the moment (haven't surfed in 4 weeks :( ) and hooking up might be tricky, but I'm sure we could sort something out.

Post here or PM me or whatever. I lurk regularly.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Sun Sep 14, 2014 9:46 pm

Wow, thanks for all the input guys. I'll try to response to each and every one here.

Boo, the board in question has epoxy resin and a polyurethane foam core.
Hatchnam wrote:Petulance. Why are you wanting to go shorter or compromise on the dimensions that are already working for you ? Like, what's your goal for this next board of yours. What's the motivation? With that important piece of information I could probably give you some pointers. But if you're just wanting a different board for the sake of better performance, then I'm still very inclined to think that for where you're at, that your current board is still a pretty ideal fit for you. If anything, I could probably suggest that you're better off saving your cash, sticking with what you've got, and starting to focus your eyes only a few feet down the line (sit more in the pocket, and start eyeing off more top to bottom type lines) instead of fixing your eyes (stare-down) so far down the line. The board you have will still lend itself well to surfing in a more advanced manner, no problems. I've surfed it. It goes quite ok off the bottom and off the top.
Now that is a very good question. I only mentioned the possibility of getting the new board in response to MM posting up a pic of his new Miller F-Skate because I saw a second hand F-Skate available from Grant Miller on his website that was a reasonable price for a newish board.

I haven't put too much thought into it but the new board should be different enough to my current board and just a touch smaller without too much compromise on volume. The magic board would be one that would help me progress, which at this stage means volume for catching waves but still be small enough to duck dive easily.

I have put in a slightly bigger set of fins in the board since you last you last surfed it. It had a set of FCS M3s which are small and I have put the fins that came with the board which are medium sized.

Drailed wrote:Yeah what he said... Be cautious about refining refining refining... All that will happen is you will catch less waves for the compromise of pulling off a slightly more radical turn every blue moon.
I managed to do a non-radical forehand top turn and a cutback in the sloppy 1ft conditions this weekend ... :mrgreen:

Drailed wrote: Maybe you just want a new board because it's fun to buy a new board.. If that's the case, be careful on the dims.
Now ... that could also be another reason. The thrill of something new.
swvic wrote:As a grom, me and my mates were of the opinion a new board every 6 mths was essential to keep you fresh and progressing. I know I suspected you of beingvery modest in your ability, pet, but I also think that a semi-regular new board is a good thing for most keen, and particularly, young(ish) surfers. I say, rather than pull the trigger on a newy, surf as many of your mates boards as you can.
I'm actually pretty awful, Swvic. I recently went though pics of a previous surf trip to Lombok and I could see exactly what I was doing wrong in each pic. Lots of wasted (*) waves there due to weighting, foot positioning, arm positioning, lack of compression in the knees and not enough upper body twisting.
(*) wasted as in I should have done better with the wave, not as in the wave went unridden. Definitely a few pics of me outrunning a wave when I should have done a cutback, and a few of the bottom turn being mucked up when there was a lip to hit.

And I'm also an adult beginner who as a a school kid was never into any sports so that is a double whammy if I ever saw one. And the mates I surf with regularly have way undervolumed boards. One has a 5''8" JS Revolution and the other used to ride a 5'4" fish until he bought a 5'10" Hypto Krypto ...

Three people who have seen me surf for a bit (Iggs, the famous Brazilian mini-mal rider at my local and the guy took the pics of me in Lombok) all say the same thing ... I should stick to the board I currently ride in order to progress. Volume is definitely the key here.

StayPuft wrote:Petulance, I have a 6'4" x 20" x 2 5/8" v-skate that sounds like the perfect small step down from your waterskate. You're welcome to have a lend. I surf Maroubra as well - we actually had a chat on the beach once. If you want to give me a yell when you're around, we can sort something out. Only problem is that I'm pretty flat out at the moment (haven't surfed in 4 weeks :( ) and hooking up might be tricky, but I'm sure we could sort something out.

Post here or PM me or whatever. I lurk regularly.
Whoops, I'm embarassed to say that I don't remember our chat, StayPuft. I always try to chat to other guys on Millers out in the surf and I remember chatting to a few guys with V-Skates. The dimensions on your board would be the smallest I would get as a second board at this stage so you sound right on the money.
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If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:54 am

Keep the board you have. It's gonna be your old faithful. But if you "do" want more progressive and different board, then still retain the volume and length to being almost the same, but get a board that's more "performance centric".

My biggest performance tip would be to honestly stick with what you already have, get to know that board inside out. The biggest thing for now is awareness and positioning on the waves. Stay in the pocket, and just focus your eyes a few feet down the line in front of you (at the lip) instead of right down the line, switch your attention to the "shape of the wave" rather than the length of it, and soon enough things will start to happen for you.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:37 am

Yup, got to work on "wave awareness".

The board is definitely a keeper. And to think that I was *this* close to listing it on GumTree to get a Dumpster Diver equivalent.

Around that time I popped into a nearby surf shop and one of the staff looked at me and said "for you, you shouldn't get on anything bigger than 6' if you want to progress" ... :P
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:14 pm

petulance wrote:Yup, got to work on "wave awareness".

The board is definitely a keeper. And to think that I was *this* close to listing it on GumTree to get a Dumpster Diver equivalent.

Around that time I popped into a nearby surf shop and one of the staff looked at me and said "for you, you shouldn't get on anything bigger than 6' if you want to progress" ... :P
Leaping Jesus. Keep the fking board you already have. And DO NOT listen to any of these retail surf-store dweebs AT ALL. Work on your awareness, wave positioning, and line of sight (as prescribed earlier) and the lines and turns will all start to happen for you.

Look, if you're itching to get yourself a second board, how about a smallish (6'4) roundtail single-fin, one that's a good paddler, but still nimble. Something still loose and adaptable enough for the waves you most often surf (be it walling up or shorter/peaky) but forcing you to surf clean lines and work on your style. If your style and positioning is up to shit on a single-fin it'll punish you very quickly. You'll soon learn what you're doing wrong, and work to correct it.
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Drailed » Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:36 pm

I got a 6'4 x 20 x 2 3/4 round tail thruster and a 6'1 x 20.5 x 2 5/8 quad sitting about doing nothing if you wanna give em a go to see how those dims go for you before committing to anything, I live randwick, surf bra. happy to lend em to you for a little while if you want... they both beat up a bit so no worries about dinging em. Bother very user friendly boards.
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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 16, 2014 4:44 pm

Yes Pet, I reckon they must try to move product in many surf shops. I had a young guy try yo push me towards a 6' biscuit one time. Now particularly since I have had a bit of a trip into fatter, wider and a bit shorter boards since then I can only scratch my head and wonder what he thought I was going to do with the thing. Similar when I got talked into buying a way to fat board to take to Bali last time. Both of those boards mentioned can maybe go okay in really weak, dribble, bumpy surf. The rocker and volume makes them a bitch to take off on in good surf.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by alakaboo » Tue Sep 16, 2014 5:06 pm

Have you ridden a biscuit? They are fun as hell in small beachies, unfortunately they are also made out of eggshells and cobwebs

Petulance just stop thinking so much and surf more.borrow boards if you can^^

Iggy is broadly giving good advice (volume, awareness, not listening to 18yo shop assistants) but it is also coming from a person with very different ability and body shape and a power based style
I'm 10+ kilos heavier and 10cms taller than you and I sold a 6'5" to Iggy because it was too much board for me

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:28 pm

Yeah, not an all rounder though. I had a fishcuit that was phenomenal sometimes but just too limited. I went through a brief time of thinking they could be good for me but I've got plenty of boards that surf little beachies well. Not what I'm Interested in. I reckon steering an average surfer onto something like that is dooming them to riding little beachies. If they have nothing to compare it too they probably think they are just crap at riding good waves since they go belly up as soon as it gets bigger, hollower and more powerful.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:49 am

Thanks for all the input, guys. I'll write a more detailed reply when I get the chance. I have a long day ahead of me waiting in airports.
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by CJK » Wed Sep 17, 2014 1:57 pm

Interesting comment on not surfing wider, fatter boards in decent surf. I’ve moved towards higher volume boards in an effort to get into waves earlier, so I’m keen to hear what people think are the negatives of surfing fatter boards in decent waves. I have a couple of customs from decent shapers that are wide and fat, but have found that I’m regularly getting caught in the lip on take-off rather than an easy, early take off. Seems a bit counter intuitive, do other people experience a similar problem?

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Davros » Wed Sep 17, 2014 2:13 pm

^^^^^^^^^^^^

Drawbacks for wider flatter boards - hmmm maybe bottom turns and surfing away from the pocket to much.

Re: getting caught at the top, I guess sometime fatter floaty boards sort of ballon into waves rather than "spear" into them. I reckon an extra coat of glass and maybe 1/8 inch less volume and 1/4 less width may help or may not. possibly your positioning is off as with more width you might be chasing waves you usually wouldnt and getting lazy on positioning because you think you can make every wave and or are chasing waves you should let go........donna know..maybe not

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Little » Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:44 pm

I'm 55, 6'1" and 95kg although reasonably fit. I've had a 6'6" Firewire Spitfire which is 45 litres and a bit hard to duckdive but right now I wouldn't swap it for anything for Sydney surf. I took it to Bali and it handled solid 4ft there although it's really fast and sometimes a bit hard to keep in the pocket. At this stage of my surfing life this board can do everything I ask from it. It's a great paddler but a real performer as well. I reckon I could have even gone the 6'4". I was a bit dubious when I first got it, going from a 6'6" Simon he made for me but like I said, I couldn't possible be happier.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:51 am

Here you go Petulance. 6'6 single fin, $200.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/curl-cur ... 1056424253?
You're a novice surfer who's just starting to progress. Why not kick things off learning some simple clean form and function.
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steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by Beanpole » Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:27 pm

Yes, little I considered just that shape for my last trip over there.
The thing I reckon with beachball characteristics of short, wide, fat boards is that it puts the emphasis back on how well tuned the rails and rocker are.
Basically as a cliche the characteristics mean going up the wave backwards until you either go over the back or are squirted down the face like a watermelon seed squeezed between your fingers. When that happens you have to hope the design is working for you.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by StayPuft » Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:13 pm

There's a 6'2" x 21" x 2 1/2" f-skate on ebay if you're interested, Petulance.

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Re: new short board for big...old...guy...

Post by petulance » Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:01 am

Hatchnam wrote:Here you go Petulance. 6'6 single fin, $200.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/curl-cur ... 1056424253?
You're a novice surfer who's just starting to progress. Why not kick things off learning some simple clean form and function.
I really like the look of it. Unfortunately I think it will be sold by the time I get back from my hols. I heard that riding a single fin will teach you to "know" the wave as it forces you to surf in the pocket. How will a single fin go at the Bra?
Legion wrote: If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how to get it on, move to Lennox.

If you're that dumb that you can't figure out how a suit with a horizontal zip on the chest or no zip is an improvement on a back zip, move to Lennox.

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