Small surf fun

Post by **Longboarder** » Fri Jan 23, 2004 5:26 pm

StreetDaddy's right i can produce a list of all those that are on the World Longboard Circuit that would rip apart any wave. So stick that up ya arse

Post by **Nikko** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 1:21 am

Streetdady, I would like to point out to you that this is a forum!!! That means people can say what they want and discuss a topic putting there own veiws across. My view may not be the same as yours or anybody elses, but it is mine.
I have riden a few mals and choose to play with short board designs. It just wasnt for me.
Also notice I did not swear once, you on the other hand??
There are more learners on longboards that get in the way of others in the water than any other craft. Not long ago a guy wiped out and and his his tankers prop slices open a gash 5 cm long on the back of my neck, blood pissen out the fella just hopped on and paddled back out without a sorry or ru ok etc. It was a shortboarder that told me I was bleeding, I looked at the guy who did it shook my head and came in. The others in the water just kept away from him.
Just one incident I know but it happens alot more than is talked about.
The guys who can use there tankers well you dont even notice that they are riding a mal. They just get on with having fun and surfing without aggro or greed. They seen to be in harmony with whats going on in the water. More power to these fellas, its there choice and all's cool.
Streetdaddy take a look at yourself mate. Before you go calling a guy a cock/arse/moron that you know nothing about , mate you better not be in the same patch of water as me cause you will experience some instant karma.
Longboarder: I appriciate your comment. Yes I probably am one of those that does see more negatives than positives about your craft. I don't ever talk about it actually. This is the very first time I have expressed my thoughts. I make no bones about it. I still stick to what I said.
I must addmit though that I did want to stir the pot up a little.
Cheers
P.S. I still cant remember seing a mal takle Padang Padang anytime I've been there?? Padang only works over six foot.
Remember that shot of Greg Knoll flying outta control down the face of a giant Makaha wave. In an interview he was asked about it. He said that equipment was not really appropriate for those waves but it was all they had. This guys a Rageing Bull, legend. Cred where cred is due...

Post by **Longboarder** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 3:17 pm

Stir the pot just a little hmm?

Post by **streetdaddy** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 11:17 am

Nikko wrote:That means people can say what they want

and you're welcome to sware too mate, no one will get angry! I've had collisions with shortboards, mals, bodyboarders, swimmers etc. so I just feel that it's unfair to lump all longboarders into one category... So the guy who ran you over and didn't apologise, I spose it was his boards fault eh? MY $0.02

Nikko wrote:mate you better not be in the same patch of water as me cause you will experience some instant karma

geez 'mate' you don't disappoint! Nothing like some meathead threats of physical violence to make yourself look cool... Was it not YOU who told Longboarders to stay in the crap where they belong? If you expect to say things like that (in the 'Mal Riders only' area no less) and not cop some abuse, well then, wtf are you doing here? Its a FORUM, e.g.

Nikko wrote:That means people can say what they want

Post by **dUg** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 2:32 pm

he he,

I see the flames are spreading from one forum to another. Soon the whole BB will be ablaze!!!

Just to go back to the topic of "small wave fun" for a sec ( geez, what am I thinking!! ), I'd have to say that in all honesty I'm shithouse on a Mal.

That being said, I had a ball one day out at Three Poles ( Mid Coast SA ) a couple of years ago. Longboarders pretty much "own" this break, and even a very good, very fit shortboarder will get very few waves out there ( when it's under 3' ). This day it was around 2' and a bit crumbly, and I paddled out for a joke on a mate's 7'6" mini-mal. Within ten minutes I had about three waves, and was able to sit deeper than most of the regulars out there on their 9+ footers. Over the next half hour all the guys who'd spent years swiping set waves off me when I used to surf out there on a 6'1" got more and more pissed off, and even started whining about "blow ins" etc. etc. Pretty funny... having surfed the break for a good ten years before I'd even seen any of them! After about an hour of retraining I was able to set up nice floaters, pull snaps and roundhouse cutties... I was stoked! Even with no crowd I would not have bothered paddling out there on a shortboard.

In small surf, provided the wave has a resonably good shape ( e.g. fast ) I'd always much rather surf a shortboard, but for small days where it's lacking power or shape I highly recommend hitting it with a performance Mal or mini-mal. It's also good for your shortboard surfing... give it a go!!

Post by **Jamoe** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 6:33 pm

cheers to that

Post by **cousteau** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:35 pm

Six months ago here in 2107 the great sweep Midget F graced us with his presence at south Av on a not insignificant 4' day with the odd 6'+ every quarter hr.Whilst us mere mortal pack of shortboard dogs fought over the peak Midget would paddle a good 30m past us (no leggie) and catch the bomb wave with a two stroke paddle in casual as.He was the man.shortboard or longboard.

I love a mal on 1' fat day I couldn't for the life of me ride one on a 4'+ day a shortboard would be far easier.Anyway hoses for courses I say there's no sadder sight than someone pumping the life out of a real crap wave on a matchstick shotboard.

Post by **Morgan The Moon** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 12:32 pm

Nicely put Coasteau....

Some guys out there are freakishly talented, and make it all look so easy - longboarders and shortboarders.

The common theme is 'right board for the conditions'. Riding a 'dark ages' log can allow you to make the most of less than perfect surfing conditions - in a way a guy that rides only a shortboard won't understand. Getting on the wave early, building up your speed and putting in some tight pivot turns and trying to get your footwork down makes this kind of surf really fun.

I don't ride a shortboard particularly well and I admire those that do, but I'd rather put my time into riding an old style board and feeling the glide. But that's just me....

Post by **theboat** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:35 pm

Who cares.... just go surfing.

Try and get yourself a pair of sunburnt teeth, and enjoy the amazing priviledge we have of catching waves.... whatever the hell your one.

Post by **Longygrom** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 9:03 pm

For me on a longboard the perfect small surf is 1 and a half feet to 2 ft, rolling in on a fast speedy rivermouth break or point, so you can set your line and really go.

My perfect board for that type of set up i have got right now, its 9ft 3 and a half inch pintail Damian Merry shaped KEYO with 3 shades of lightish brown, with an opaqued finish, with just a centre fin boxed glass.

Post by **coastie** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 10:21 pm

Lets all b cool! Logs (thick soft railers) are fun in small waves but suck in big surf. Shortboards work better in sucky punchy surf eh!

I am actually trying to go half way. Most modern shortboards just don't work for me (I am 6'3" and 90 kg and pretty fit cause a surf or swim most days). They are too thin, too narrow and glassed too lightly, right .... so i need a fuller planshape and a thicker more durable board. I am presently riding and restoring some 1970's single fin shortboards. All around 7ft ... maybe 3 inches thick and a really narrow planshape.

These are great fun ... they paddle well and they are fast in bigger waves - 'true 4ft +'

Why aren't there more boards like these?? I guess my point is that you goota find the right stick for you ... for the right conditions! Viva la quiver!

Post by **Morgan The Moon** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 3:50 pm

Coastie

Got any picks of those boards? They sound great - have you ridden any of the McCoy nuggets - fuller plan shape, greater thickness, ride great!

I've got a 7'6" fun shape for the days when my soft railer won't work - I tried a mates 7'0 Nugget and it catches waves easier than my 7'6 and is far more responsive.

joshalohasurf · Post by **joshalohasurf** » Mon Feb 23, 2004 8:05 am

Heres the story went to bali in jan but didnt take my boards 5,10 & 6,2
it was so small at seminyak up to changoo i hired a Mal the waves were tiny but such perfect shape i was hangin 5 noseriding headiping spinnering with out a leash so if going to bali in wet season try surfing a mal.

Post by **halfy** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 11:05 pm

i was just wonderin if u wanted to ride a short board would u go straight to da shorty or hit up a mal for a bitta experiance?

Post by **macca202** » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:46 pm

nothing more dangerous than an amatuer rinding a mal without a leash.
At curly today there was a chick surf comp on and when some crappy longboarders were out, someone fell off their board and i watched it waiting for it to recoil, but it didn't as it wasn't attached. Had to bail.

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:47 am

Nikko wrote:
PattoBOG wrote:I own two mals, (ones a 8.8 foam HB thingy, the other a 9.6 Vudu) but they only get ridden as an absolute last reort. I think too many peopl eget lazy too quickly.
Yestreday I had great waves at no-mans land on my waterskate which looks like a minimal but is only 6'5". It would have been perfect for a mal but with a little bit of effort and a hybrid board yoyu can still have a ball.
In my opinion you should ride short boards for as long as you can until you get fat and lazy like the rest of the protaganists.
Longboarding is a novelty and an anachronism like neck to knee bathing suits, get with the times.
Here here dicko!

Nikko ya spacka... Farrk orf! HAahahahahahahaaa

I've been riding mals exclusively for about 6-7 years, but i do miss the High performance aspect of surfing, however i have decided against getting a hi-perf. mal ( putting hi-perormance rails and bottom shapes on a log can negatively effect its ability to noseride, hence why have the extra 3 feet if it aint gonna let ya hang 10), instead I've got myself a 7'4" Mitchell Rae thruster (supposed to be a semi-gun but it was shaped for a rather bulky bloke so the dimensions are Ok for normal surf).

Nikko: theres plenty of kooks on shortboards, but they don't get any waves so you don't notice em... there's more pointy sharp dangerous bits on a shorty than on a mal, I had a groms shorty speer straight at me, the only thing that saved me was my board otherwise i woulda been impaled for sure.

Post by **Morgan The Moon** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:13 am

Scored a perfect small wave evening glass off session last night.

Nearly turned down the offer cos I was sure it was going to be flat - was greeted by waist high (at best) fast peeling right hand beachie with a nice wall and bowl section at the end.

Couldn't get enough, perfect way to end the day, catching some glassy waves while the sun sets.......best logging session I've had in months.

Anyone else score?

Post by **bondi** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:46 pm

down the south coast i surfed 6hrs on sat and 3hrs on sunday - 2-3ft glass......

10+ second noserides it was insane fun!

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