Longboarder going short

A place for longboarders, eggers, fish riders... if alternative surfcraft is your game, here's the place to chat about it

Moderators: collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, Shari, the kalakau kid, Forum Moderators

Post Reply
wayback
regular
Posts: 194
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 9:07 pm

Longboarder going short

Post by wayback » Wed Jan 28, 2004 5:31 pm

I have recently added a 7'4" to my quiver, after not having surfed a shortboard for about 10 years. I began on mals as a kid in the early sixties - that's all there was. Then I went through the whole magical shortboard revolution. Eventually the boards got too small and the crowds and I got too big, so I moved back onto mals - and rediscovered my stoke. Aah, the glide! Then retro, meaty, single fin shortboards made a reappearance, alongside hybrids and short boards for the "larger" man, and I felt my youth stirring. The first time out on the 7'4" was a nightmare. I nearly had a heart attack paddling the bugger through the break, and a stroke trying to catch a wave. And when I finaly hooked one and stood up, I felt I was on a skateboard. But I got it sorted and now enjoy reliving my glory days - mainly in my own head - when the waves have a bit of juice. Any other longboarders gone back to shorties or midsize? How'd you go?

User avatar
the kalakau kid
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 688
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 10:39 am
Location: treeline

Post by the kalakau kid » Tue Feb 03, 2004 2:17 pm

wb,

while i don't share your vintage, i do regularly switch from long to short boards. I find that the more often you switch the better you can do it and each style complements the other. The shortboards are good for reflexes, balance & fitness, the longboards are great for style and form as well as giving a whole neew dimension to small waves. Anyway, you probably know all of this.
I f you continue to struggle, maybe your shortboard isn't wide enough. I find width is more important that length in making the transition between boards.

stoked to hear that you are back into it & by the sounds of it probably into a bit of a rennaissance of your surfing in general.

out of interest, what boards are you riding and in what kind of waves?

wayback
regular
Posts: 194
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 9:07 pm

Post by wayback » Tue Feb 03, 2004 3:39 pm

Hey KK,

I surf mainly on the west coast, beach breaks around Perth in winter and reefs down south in summer, with a few trips to the Maldives and Bali when funds and time allow.

I ride Warren Thompson 10' and McTavish 9'6" single fins in summer, and a Yater 9'4" when the waves get some more juice in winter or on surf trips. That's when I also break out my "shortboards," a McTavish (love the guy's work) 8' Carver and a Mark Rabbidge 7'4" Fatboy (great name).

You're right, the more I used them, the more comfortable I got with the shorter boards. My mind easily recalls the moves I used to make in my younger shortboard days, but the body can't quite deliver. Still, I'm having a blast. Changing boards to suit conditions makes each surf seem fresher - sort of like changing girlfriends - another thing I can still faintly remember.

AC
newbie
Posts: 32
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 12:09 pm
Location: North of the Spit Bridge

Post by AC » Tue Feb 17, 2004 9:06 pm

Good to hear people out there enjoying all facets of surfing.

I have surfed a shortboard since I was about 7 (now mid 30s), but got a 9'2" high performance mal for a birthday a few years back. It was like an awakening.

Whilst I still ride my trusty 6'3" at every opportunity, the 9'2" comes out regularly. It constantly reminds me of the need to master the basics - setup a good bottom turn, positioning etc.

Both styles complement each other, are different & equally enjoyable - and they make me improve my surfing!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests