One board or many boards?

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passanger
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One board or many boards?

Post by passanger » Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:36 am

Which one makes you a better surfer? Riding your favorite longboard anywhere and everywhere until you know it by heart? Or instead of riding just the nimble ninefooter picking a bit bigger board every now and then? Learning to ride something smaller too?

I know it's an obvious answer if you're young and surfing every day. What if you're not a teenager anymore and getting to surf only some 50 to 70 days per year?

Learning the board you ride or learning to ride many boards?

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surfanimals
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Re: One board or many boards?

Post by surfanimals » Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:05 am

passanger wrote:Which one makes you a better surfer? Riding your favorite longboard anywhere and everywhere until you know it by heart? Or instead of riding just the nimble ninefooter picking a bit bigger board every now and then? Learning to ride something smaller too?

I know it's an obvious answer if you're young and surfing every day. What if you're not a teenager anymore and getting to surf only some 50 to 70 days per year?

Learning the board you ride or learning to ride many boards?

Gotta have a quiver but be smart and keep your width and thickness somewhat similar and rail set up feeling uniform so the conversion from one to another is mainly only length and speed (rocker / concave / fins) rather than the overall buoyancy and feel of the board.

My quiver ranges from;

6'3 by 23 by 3 1/8 twin keel fish
8'0 by 22 1/2 by 3 1/8 big guys shortboard
9'3 by 23 by 3 1/8 Mal Gun (
9'6 by 22 7/8 by 2 7/8 Mal Gun
9'6 by 23 1/8 by 3 1/8 Mal
9'8 by 23 by 3 1/8 Log

All very different in so far as what they perform in from 1 foot peelers through to chunky beach breaks, fast speed lines and mountains but all have the same basic feel when you paddle out and give confidence to swap from one to the other without concern for rail digs, paddle capacity etc etc.

Having one special board is great but it won't let you advance from be an average surfer. it will go 'OK' in peelers, 'OK' in big waves and 'OK' in average sessions but don't you want to push your surfing to be the best you can by having the best type of equipment you can get for the broad range of surf we get on the East Coast and really round out your surfing in all conditions along the way.

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Post by bro » Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:34 am

surfing 50 - 70 times a year, thats once a week and maybe a bit more on holidays

stick with the one board until you feel it is holding you back or not allowing you to do what you think you are able to

remember 'jack of all trades master of none"

the same thing applies to riding different boards all the time

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Post by Beanpole » Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:45 am

I'm going to try trimming down my motley collection to make way for a couple of upgrades this year. I'd like to get down to about three boards but then you start thinking oh this would be handy if I happened to be at such and such. Trouble is most people don't set off on holiday with every board they own on the roof unless you travel alone and hire a seperate room for your quiver.

Its great to have a pile of boards but when it gets to the point where theres no room for new ones quality over ordinariness has to prevail.

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Post by passanger » Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:59 am

bro wrote: stick with the one board until you feel it is holding you back or not allowing you to do what you think you are able to
That's not likely to happen anytime soon since I'm riding the same longboard the current world champ is riding;)

I'm always catching waves, making turns on my 9 footer. I might take off steeper on something smaller or walk the board better on something bigger, but I'm wondering which are better lessons: the new sensations from different equipment or pushing the limits with the board I know?

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Post by ric_vidal » Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:05 am

bro wrote:remember 'jack of all trades master of none"
May be so, bro
Ho, ho, ho
If you don’t go,
You will not know. :wink:

Moving along though :roll: how many ‘masters of the trade’ are there? Exactly. I could ride the same board for the rest of my life and I’d still be bog standard sh*thouse. :D

Variety is the spice of life, who knows what floats ya boat, until you try something different. Beg, borrow, steal, well don’t steal, but you know ride different stuff, otherwise how the hell do you know?

IMHO, the more you change, the more you get used to change and you feel (perhaps) more versatile. The transition from one to the next is certainly easier.

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Post by surfanimals » Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:09 am

passanger wrote:
bro wrote: stick with the one board until you feel it is holding you back or not allowing you to do what you think you are able to
That's not likely to happen anytime soon since I'm riding the same longboard the current world champ is riding;)

I'm always catching waves, making turns on my 9 footer. I might take off steeper on something smaller or walk the board better on something bigger, but I'm wondering which are better lessons: the new sensations from different equipment or pushing the limits with the board I know?
When I jump off my mal onto my fish it is so fresh - fast, speed lines and exhilirating.

When I got off my fish onto a mal I find it has sharpened up my reflex's and feel so nice and free back on the longboards....it get's rid of any boredom or cobwebs that can show up after multiple mal sessions.

When I jump from my mals onto the 8'0 or mal guns, I just feel ready to take it on....each one compliments the other and a constant feeling of self improvement and transfer of sensations happens.

We're all different but i've had lots of boards and differing amounts of boards from 2 to 10 in my quiver and reckon I've got it sussed (for me anyhow).....we're all different though.

Hey Passenger, just 'cause his a world champ, don't mean that board will work for you. Weight, size, age, flexibility, water time all come into play !

Tom Carroll said in the classic 1989 movie 'Surfers';

"You gotta be surfing 3.....long pause.....4 times a week to get any good at this"

Mate, 50 to 70 surfs a year ain't gonna do it - move closer to the beach. :wink:

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Post by surfanimals » Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:12 am

ric_vidal wrote:
bro wrote:remember 'jack of all trades master of none"
May be so, bro
Ho, ho, ho
If you don’t go,
You will not know. :wink:

Moving along though :roll: how many ‘masters of the trade’ are there? Exactly. I could ride the same board for the rest of my life and I’d still be bog standard sh*thouse. :D

Variety is the spice of life, who knows what floats ya boat, until you try something different. Beg, borrow, steal, well don’t steal, but you know ride different stuff, otherwise how the hell do you know?

IMHO, the more you change, the more you get used to change and you feel (perhaps) more versatile. The transition from one to the next is certainly easier.
So agree with you.....1, 6 or 50 boards, I'm still 'Joe Average' but a damn stoked late 30 something grommet all the same.

You just don't know until you have a go and I'd rather change and know from my mistakes than never make the change and not have the knowledge from the lessons learnt.

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Post by sean-- » Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:32 am

I've got 2 boards at the moment one is a 9 foot high performance long board and the other a Miller Powerglide at 7'6" and these 2 paddle similar . I'm getting a log in about 2 weeks and am planning on trying to make a fish with a local shaper.
I've just got over a frustrating 2 year back injury that had me in and out of the water and as you get older it is harder to go from long to short.
You really need to be surfing a lot to sucessfully jump from one board to another. There's no other way.

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Post by ric_vidal » Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:00 am

sean-- wrote:I've just got over a frustrating 2 year back injury that had me in and out of the water and as you get older it is harder to go from long to short.
You really need to be surfing a lot to sucessfully jump from one board to another. There's no other way.
I must admit I often choose my ride subject to the back-o-meter, but there is a degree that’s in our heads Sean, you just need to do it.

I’ve got friends who think they have to ride 9'+ because of their size which is absolute bull. Plenty of big units throwing around some seriously small boards if you keep your eyes open.

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Post by sean-- » Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:25 am

ric_vidal wrote:
sean-- wrote:I've just got over a frustrating 2 year back injury that had me in and out of the water and as you get older it is harder to go from long to short.
You really need to be surfing a lot to sucessfully jump from one board to another. There's no other way.
I must admit I often choose my ride subject to the back-o-meter, but there is a degree that’s in our heads Sean, you just need to do it.

I’ve got friends who think they have to ride 9'+ because of their size which is absolute bull. Plenty of big units throwing around some seriously small boards if you keep your eyes open.
Yeah I agree Ric. Thats why I am going to get a fish made up.
I've got a lot more flexibility and strength back now and am surfing a lot more which is why I want to go shorter again .
I think the trick is to try and ride shorter boards more often.
Crowds are another reason to break out the 9 footer just to get your share of waves.
Cant wait for school hols to end and get back to normal.

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Post by surfanimals » Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:35 am

sean-- wrote:
ric_vidal wrote:
sean-- wrote:I've just got over a frustrating 2 year back injury that had me in and out of the water and as you get older it is harder to go from long to short.
You really need to be surfing a lot to sucessfully jump from one board to another. There's no other way.
I must admit I often choose my ride subject to the back-o-meter, but there is a degree that’s in our heads Sean, you just need to do it.

I’ve got friends who think they have to ride 9'+ because of their size which is absolute bull. Plenty of big units throwing around some seriously small boards if you keep your eyes open.
Yeah I agree Ric. Thats why I am going to get a fish made up.
I've got a lot more flexibility and strength back now and am surfing a lot more which is why I want to go shorter again .
I think the trick is to try and ride shorter boards more often.
Crowds are another reason to break out the 9 footer just to get your share of waves.
Cant wait for school hols to end and get back to normal.

I get as many waves on my fish as on my longboard.

The only thing to consider is whether the waves on the day are fat and full or hollow - that is the deciding factor rather than size.

A two foot day on a shallow bottom will give you as many waves on a fish as mal....but a wobbly weak wave will see you caught out.

For you Sean, that would be say the difference between say Bombo or Werri as opposed to Bellambi....crunchy compared to soft waves.

In my opinion being a longboarder is that the width and thickness of the fish is critical......not the length. I'm down to 5'10 but my other dimensions are what decides whether I can surf it - a 21 1/2 or 22 by 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 would be a waste of my time but maxing them out gets me surfing.

I've got a custom on order 6'3 by 23 by 3 1/8 and it will get me onto anything a mal rider is catching. :wink:

Especially when you gotta carry it down The Farm track !

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Post by sean-- » Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:52 am

The Farm track has been replaced with a waterfront carpark now SA and its turned the place into a bigger zoo than ever before especially in these school holidays. It was really good down there on Wed arvo though. Maybe the Farm track is the reason for my dodgy back.
Its going to be easy going down there now with the log.
I wouldnt want to go any less than around 6'6" to start with and I'd be looking at around 22 wide and 3" thick and pretty flat rockered.
Are you still getting fishes from Jacko's?

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Post by bro » Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:04 pm

if the guy is surfing once a week then it probably doesn't matter what board or how many boards he rides as he will always be sh1t!

If you are telling me that you can surf your fish for a week and I'm talking a traditional fish not a hybrid and then jump straight on your standard 6'2 and rip with no issues then I'm calling BS on you

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Post by surfanimals » Fri Jan 04, 2008 1:34 pm

sean-- wrote:The Farm track has been replaced with a waterfront carpark now SA and its turned the place into a bigger zoo than ever before especially in these school holidays. It was really good down there on Wed arvo though. Maybe the Farm track is the reason for my dodgy back.
Its going to be easy going down there now with the log.
I wouldnt want to go any less than around 6'6" to start with and I'd be looking at around 22 wide and 3" thick and pretty flat rockered.
Are you still getting fishes from Jacko's?
Hey Sean, I heard last week that that car park finally opened - always wondered why they excavated it the other year and never finished it.

Well, at least our arms can stay the same length now and not be stretched on logger days !

Last year, I carried an 8 footer and a 9'6 down thinking it was possible to take 2 boards down for some swapping. My wife was with me and after dropping one of them twice on the way back up the track post session, she had to carry one and still has a go at me from time to time now !

I'm heading to 'B' for the dawny...might be OK with the wind direction - reckon your local near the coal loader might be OK too ?

I'm still on Jacko keels - the 5'10 is on eBay now.....they are the best I've seen for quality and performance. 2 x 6oz on the deck, and 23 by 3 wide easy......max is 6'5 though. Check mine on eBay for the basic template.

Talk soon mate.

As for bro - what's 6'2 got to do with anything ?

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Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:06 pm

passengar I think you have it arse about.

If ya want to get good, ride different waves -- go to different surf spots and let 'em force appropriate equipment changes if needed.

Switching around boards at the same spot might give you a brief kick but won't really bring about an improvement in skills.

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Post by sean-- » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:48 pm

surfanimals wrote:
sean-- wrote:The Farm track has been replaced with a waterfront carpark now SA and its turned the place into a bigger zoo than ever before especially in these school holidays. It was really good down there on Wed arvo though. Maybe the Farm track is the reason for my dodgy back.
Its going to be easy going down there now with the log.
I wouldnt want to go any less than around 6'6" to start with and I'd be looking at around 22 wide and 3" thick and pretty flat rockered.
Are you still getting fishes from Jacko's?
Hey Sean, I heard last week that that car park finally opened - always wondered why they excavated it the other year and never finished it.

Well, at least our arms can stay the same length now and not be stretched on logger days !

Last year, I carried an 8 footer and a 9'6 down thinking it was possible to take 2 boards down for some swapping. My wife was with me and after dropping one of them twice on the way back up the track post session, she had to carry one and still has a go at me from time to time now !

I'm heading to 'B' for the dawny...might be OK with the wind direction - reckon your local near the coal loader might be OK too ?

I'm still on Jacko keels - the 5'10 is on eBay now.....they are the best I've seen for quality and performance. 2 x 6oz on the deck, and 23 by 3 wide easy......max is 6'5 though. Check mine on eBay for the basic template.

Talk soon mate.

As for bro - what's 6'2 got to do with anything ?
Just checked from Shellharbour to Kiama . Took the kids to the little blowhole and it was working nicely.
As for the surf it was basically 6 feet of slop all over.
Let me know if you are going to sell one of your MC guns.
That would be ok at the b bommie in the morning.

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Post by ric_vidal » Fri Jan 04, 2008 7:36 pm

bro wrote:if the guy is surfing once a week then it probably doesn't matter what board or how many boards he rides as he will always be sh1t!

If you are telling me that you can surf your fish for a week and I'm talking a traditional fish not a hybrid and then jump straight on your standard 6'2 and rip with no issues then I'm calling BS on you
Wrong, wrong, bro... some of us, dare I say the greater majority aren’t surfing for sheep stations, we are surfing for fun, recreation, physical activity, what-EV-A :wink: The ‘guy’ has a name too, ‘Passanger’, use it.

Not sure who the ‘you’ is but ‘we’ are not telling you anything other recounting what ‘we’ DO.

Sure we all want to be the best we can be, whatever the f*ck that is, but you can’t lay your expectations/judgement on someone else. We all do it for our own reasons. It isn’t a f*cking contest to be better than the next bloke, we all walk to/from a surf with OUR OWN SET OF EXPECTATIONS. I’ll be stuffed if you know what mine are and I can tell you it isn’t a high bar, but don’t ever try and second guess or assume to know.

And you of all people are trying to sell product to US! You might want to get a better understanding of your consumers.

Sorry bro, being forthright which isn’t exactly me but I have had a few. :? :twisted: Guess it comes down to communication styles, look out 2008 nasty Ric has arrived. :D

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